2020 POTD Thread Archive

Where did you source the parts from, like the seat and the pedals? That looks awesome.
The pedals, wheel base (motor), and wheel are from Fanatec. It's pretty high-end hardware, though there are some options in the astronomical range. The seat is the cheapest thing available from eBay when searching for "racing seat."

Making the frame was fun and has given me plenty to think about regarding aspects of the design.
 
I really like Lexan — in this thickness it cuts easily with a razor knife and cold forms nicely so I can brake it on the D&K. "

What is the thickness? You mean you can just bend it? I always heat it first. Is that unnecessary?

Sorry Robert, I didn’t see your question until now. Yes you can cold form polycarbonate easily, I do it on my box and pan brake. There is some spring back to allow for but once you get the feel for it it’s ok. This material I’m using is 1.6mm or what the shop sells as 1/16”. I have not tried thicker but as @hman mentions it can be done. Polycarbonate is also a lot less prone to chipping and cracking, so you can cut with sheet metal shears if you want. For straight cuts I just use a razor knife to score a few times then snap on the score. Works fine for me. Same material as many face shields are made from, so I make my own replacement lenses when the old ones get too scratched up. Hope that helps.

-frank
 
Francist,

Is that an Atlas horizontal mill?? I have a MFC, that I made a vertical head assembly, that uses MT#2 collets with a drawbar. I was doing a lot of small Bakelite parts, using 1/8” and 5/32” end mills, I still use it about 4 or 5 times a year.
~~~

I have been studying (and scrounging) for some time to build a vertical head on my MFC. With a (cheap) bench-top vertical on hand, it's not a real high priority. What I find interesting is the riser assembly, specificly the ability to get the head properly aligned.

I have been thinking of relating everything to the overarm support with the vertical head swivling on that. An interesting adaptation that bears thinking on.

.
 
The reason I used the vertical supports, that rotates on the overarm opening, was the head will fit into the overarm opening, but it left about only an inch of knee travel, the head was too low

the head can swivel side to side and there is an adjustable flange to adjust the nod, so the head assembly can be trammed
 
Ah, that is even more clever every time I look at it. You’ve also held the front support in vertical position using the hole in the casting provided for the original guard (the one that everybody removes just before permanently losing...). Slick idea.

-frank
 
I had a couple of free hrs for "chip therapy" yesterday. I've seen some of the members have replaced the nut on the top of their toolpost with a handle. That seemed like a good project. Anytime I can do away with a wrench, I'm all about it. I like it so much, I may have to make one for my other lathe. 20200511_172220.jpg
 
I had a couple of free hrs for "chip therapy" yesterday. I've seen some of the members have replaced the nut on the top of their toolpost with a handle. That seemed like a good project. Anytime I can do away with a wrench, I'm all about it. I like it so much, I may have to make one for my other lathe. View attachment 323968
Hell Chuck..... I was all psyched because I just finished my nut/ handle for Quick Change tool-post... and then I see yours. I actually like yours better. I was getting ready to post my pictures and now I feel shamed.
Well... not that bad..., but yours is really clean. I had trouble at first cutting my nut. Been a while since I cut internal threads. First 3 nuts were crap. I was lazy and tried to wing it. I finally got out the Machinists Handbook. Finally I had a really snug 5/8”-18tpi nut. So... here’s the pics. I’m happy. No more damned wrench.
FWIW.... only reason my handle is the way it is, is because I had just finished my ball turner and was playing with it. 12406331-659A-4DB8-954F-3AB1B24791B4.jpegF0E91D55-6E98-4863-8823-B18EAB280833.jpeg5EE5308D-AABB-4E5B-93E2-0D2DC0B1E5BD.jpegC1D20D08-5107-4792-82CE-69B087D6922F.jpegFC4745B9-C80D-4ED0-A704-67776B01E977.jpegFFF9ACA5-505C-44DA-8A9B-CE66C348F7A4.jpeg94842843-C8E6-4794-A663-3BEF63F430DB.jpeg
 
Hell Chuck..... I was all psyched because I just finished my nut/ handle for Quick Change tool-post... and then I see yours. I actually like yours better. I was getting ready to post my pictures and now I feel shamed.
Well... not that bad..., but yours is really clean. I had trouble at first cutting my nut. Been a while since I cut internal threads. First 3 nuts were crap. I was lazy and tried to wing it. I finally got out the Machinists Handbook. Finally I had a really snug 5/8”-18tpi nut. So... here’s the pics. I’m happy. No more damned wrench.
FWIW.... only reason my handle is the way it is, is because I had just finished my ball turner and was playing with it. View attachment 324038View attachment 324039View attachment 324040View attachment 324041View attachment 324042View attachment 324044View attachment 324045
I like it, looks like a metal gavel!
 
Hell Chuck..... I was all psyched because I just finished my nut/ handle for Quick Change tool-post... and then I see yours. I actually like yours better. I was getting ready to post my pictures and now I feel shamed.
Well... not that bad..., but yours is really clean. I had trouble at first cutting my nut. Been a while since I cut internal threads. First 3 nuts were crap. I was lazy and tried to wing it. I finally got out the Machinists Handbook. Finally I had a really snug 5/8”-18tpi nut. So... here’s the pics. I’m happy. No more damned wrench.
FWIW.... only reason my handle is the way it is, is because I had just finished my ball turner and was playing with it. View attachment 324038View attachment 324039View attachment 324040View attachment 324041View attachment 324042View attachment 324044View attachment 324045
Looks like you got more therapy than I did. If it makes you feel better, I used 5/8 and 1/2 taps for the holes. The only single pointing was on the handle. Nice ball end!
 
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