2020 POTD Thread Archive

[mattthemuppet2]

well 3h or so this morning, a bunch of firewood (fire pit = no good for melting lead), 2 camping cans of propane AND a thorough sunburn all over my back and I get 10lb of lead and 40lb odd of nasty azz sulphated crap to dispose of.




next time I'll just take the batteries to the scrap yard and use the money to buy some cement, like my wife suggested

 

[WobblyHand]

Made a set of bench levelers out of stock on hand. 3/8" bolts and 1" Delrin for the feet. Pressed the heads of the bolts into the Delrin. Floor is pretty unlevel. On the other two legs, the levelers are down to the bottom!

 

[silverhawk]

well 3h or so this morning, a bunch of firewood (fire pit = no good for melting lead), 2 camping cans of propane AND a thorough sunburn all over my back and I get 10lb of lead and 40lb odd of nasty azz sulphated crap to dispose of.

View attachment 324700
View attachment 324701

next time I'll just take the batteries to the scrap yard and use the money to buy some cement, like my wife suggested

As my wife seems to tell me regularly, "if at first you don't succeed, try doing it the way your wife told you to." I love that woman! The only one who could put up with all of my projects and hobbies.

joe

 

[stioc]

Continuing the quick and dirty project theme...a 5C collet wrench.

Started with a 1x.25" 1018 bar. Roughed out the diameter with an end mill then shaped it with a boring bar (don't like these cheap brazed boring bars but I haven't found any others for a reasonable cost). Then cut a quick taper which was part of the plan to make it nicer looking but gave up on that as it was dinner time. Tig welded a tiny piece of 3/16" steel rod and called it done. Looks ugly but works great

 

[AGCB97]

..a 5C collet wrench.

Me too yesterday. My version.

 

[silverhawk]

I had an internal AG60 IR16 threading/boring bar and a cheap chinesium AXA tool holder. Unfortunately, the boring bar was 0.787" in diameter, and the tool holder took a 1" (direct) or a 3/4" (with the included sleeve) boring bar. So, I needed to increase the size of the sleeve. Here's how you do it.

First, take ALL the dimensions down. This is required because once we set up for the actual work, the measurements change, and we have to do this with a relative dimension.

Determine the existing inside diameter of the sleeve. In this case, 0.757" (a few thousandths over the size it supports). With the target of 0.787" (I'm guessing 0.787402", which is 20mm), I needed to increase the inside diameter from 0.757" to 0.794". This is the critical measurement - it is an increase of 0.037".

With that known, grab a slice of metal the approximate size of the gap (relaxed, of course). The closer to the sleeve wall thickness the better. Shim this as needed to get a decent, nearly tight fit in that sleeve slot.

Lock this down in the lathe chuck. You will note the diameter will probably change, which is why you had to determine the relative size earlier. Now you can measure the inside diameter (not through the shim area, of course). Add the relative value from earlier, and that is our target. Now you can bore it to the target dimension. When you release it from the chuck, it should fit the boring bar and the sleeve should still slide into the AXA holder (since we didn't change that). Here is the finished assembly. Note the shim sitting right by the tool holder (under my hand). I'm pointing to the slot in the sleeve.

Next up, I printed out a template for a 127 hole pattern onto a 5" disc (that is 0.25" thick). This will give me a 127 hole index plate. There are a number of tools to generate these templates, which include the diameters. As my index plates are so small that the index holes would run into each other, i had to run the pattern in three layers. The pattern was glued to the blank using 3M's contact cement (it will come off easily when done).

Then, I could use a spring punch to set the drill holes for everything.

With that done, I just have to drill 131 holes (the 127 index holes, the center hole, and the three holes to lock the plate down). Hopefully, I'll do that tomorrow.

 

[extropic]

silverhawk,
I'm curious why you decided to modify the apparently serviceable sleeve rather than make one from scratch?

 

[speedybtx]

More like what I almost made.... A flywheel for a Mr. Pete Wobblah.

Went to put the cutoff blade in the holder...and whoa whats this ? I ordered the wrong height... its .5" not 11/16.
Sooooo.. I guess the bit of 12L4 stays in the chuck until Thursday delivery of the right blade.
it's always something you know.

 

[silverhawk]

silverhawk,
I'm curious why you decided to modify the apparently serviceable sleeve rather than make one from scratch?

Making one from scratch would have left me with a not-so-clean slot as I don't have a slitting saw (just a band saw), and I have another to holder already for the size of the original sleeve. The holder/tool combination was purchased specifically for this purpose before I realized it wasn't quite compatible.

joe

 

[Downunder Bob]

I had an internal AG60 IR16 threading/boring bar and a cheap chinesium AXA tool holder. Unfortunately, the boring bar was 0.787" in diameter, and the tool holder took a 1" (direct) or a 3/4" (with the included sleeve) boring bar. So, I needed to increase the size of the sleeve. Here's how you do it.

First, take ALL the dimensions down. This is required because once we set up for the actual work, the measurements change, and we have to do this with a relative dimension.

Determine the existing inside diameter of the sleeve. In this case, 0.757" (a few thousandths over the size it supports). With the target of 0.787" (I'm guessing 0.787402", which is 20mm), I needed to increase the inside diameter from 0.757" to 0.794". This is the critical measurement - it is an increase of 0.037".

With that known, grab a slice of metal the approximate size of the gap (relaxed, of course). The closer to the sleeve wall thickness the better. Shim this as needed to get a decent, nearly tight fit in that sleeve slot.

Lock this down in the lathe chuck. You will note the diameter will probably change, which is why you had to determine the relative size earlier. Now you can measure the inside diameter (not through the shim area, of course). Add the relative value from earlier, and that is our target. Now you can bore it to the target dimension. When you release it from the chuck, it should fit the boring bar and the sleeve should still slide into the AXA holder (since we didn't change that). Here is the finished assembly. Note the shim sitting right by the tool holder (under my hand). I'm pointing to the slot in the sleeve.

Next up, I printed out a template for a 127 hole pattern onto a 5" disc (that is 0.25" thick). This will give me a 127 hole index plate. There are a number of tools to generate these templates, which include the diameters. As my index plates are so small that the index holes would run into each other, i had to run the pattern in three layers. The pattern was glued to the blank using 3M's contact cement (it will come off easily when done).

Then, I could use a spring punch to set the drill holes for everything.

With that done, I just have to drill 131 holes (the 127 index holes, the center hole, and the three holes to lock the plate down). Hopefully, I'll do that tomorrow.

When faced with a similar dilemma, my BXA tool holder had a 1" hole for boring bar and a sleeve for 3/4" but I also needed a sleeve for 1/2" bar that I also had. Rather than remachine the existing sleeve, I figured I would need it at sometime. I made a new sleeve that was 1" outside an d1/2" inside then slit it on the bandsaw. and because of the rather thick wall I slit the backside about halfway through. I have also since made a couple of other sleeves to fit 12, 15 and 18mm bars that I got in a kit.