2020 POTD Thread Archive

I have to give a big shout out to @Buffalo21 for kicking me on to this idea today. It’s not like I haven’t thought about table covers before, but when I do I think of the usual materials guys use — rubber sheet, MDF, plywood, etc — none of which ever really got me into gear. But then I saw his made from leftover Lexan and I had the big “Aha!” moment.

And I just so happened to also have some left over 1/16” Lexan from some COVID shields I made up for my workplace last week. I really like Lexan — in this thickness it cuts easily with a razor knife and cold forms nicely so I can brake it on the D&K. In all of half an hour I was done. Here’s a couple shots in position, I left the protective skin on the one just in case the clear plastic didn’t show so well in the photos. Thanks for looking!

-frank

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Francist,

Is that an Atlas horizontal mill?? I have a MFC, that I made a vertical head assembly, that uses MT#2 collets with a drawbar. I was doing a lot of small Bakelite parts, using 1/8” and 5/32” end mills, I still use it about 4 or 5 times a year.

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Yup, sure is. It’s a pretty early MF (Serial # 000976) and I use it a lot. Mostly because it’s my only miller :) . Nice vertical head on yours — I’ve often thought about them but the commercial ones command big dollars. So far I get by.

-frank
 
Well... been spending last week working on a ball turner. Not that I need one... but just wanted the capability. Kind of screwed up because I didn’t think it through. I was trying to avoid chatter so wanted something that bolts to the cross-slide. Long story short.... kind of a pain tweeking hight plus a pain getting it on and off. Anyway it is what it is. It works but I’m just a little aggravated because I spent a while on it and it’s still not finished. Need a handle on it. Just used a pair if vise grips to test it.D168AF65-0DB8-48EF-B4D8-E2F76E521D0F.jpegCF423D20-6367-4C12-B74D-6E484367C3DC.jpeg33DD2D30-7DAF-424A-8F95-513D9097CCEE.jpeg4E64302D-F188-4E94-A807-55C85783258E.jpeg3EAF2BBF-7161-4E92-AFBC-3B7187C14E48.jpeg4186EE3B-4A35-44F0-BCA4-9B3B9CDE59B1.jpeg3E0C4440-A16E-4EA0-8BAB-FE385A250234.jpeg704CCFA4-BCF3-4356-BB8E-3030493D809E.jpegAB407ADC-B493-4105-B726-2C37DF590021.jpeg4201A538-CC59-412B-950D-867A9CE4B056.jpeg2E2B5590-16CA-40AB-B642-E4318D8E874B.jpeg
 
" I really like Lexan — in this thickness it cuts easily with a razor knife and cold forms nicely so I can brake it on the D&K. "

What is the thickness? You mean you can just bend it? I always heat it first. Is that unnecessary?
Robert
 
I’ve been working on a frame for a driving simulator. It was my first substantial matching project. I’m making one for a friend too so had to make multiples of each part. Mostly just slots and holes and overall dimensions. And some welding. It’s still a work in progress but it’s usable.

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What is the thickness? You mean you can just bend it? I always heat it first. Is that unnecessary?
Robert
I'll take a shot at answering:

Polycarbonate (Lexan, Hyzod, etc.) easily be bent/folded without heating. I've done it with thin material (~1/16") in my shop, and had it done with ~⅛" by "professionals" while working at HP. It's helpful to allow a slightly gentler than usual fold radius. Frank's covers look to be about 1/16" material.

Acrylic (Plexiglass, Perspex, etc) requires heat, or it will crack instead of bending.
 
I’ve been working on a frame for a driving simulator. It was my first substantial matching project. I’m making one for a friend too so had to make multiples of each part. Mostly just slots and holes and overall dimensions. And some welding. It’s still a work in progress but it’s usable.

9b04ad4360e7d2f2b312a43066c5e3df.jpg

56728006b9000441085ea8264ea55a64.jpg
Where did you source the parts from, like the seat and the pedals? That looks awesome.

joe
 
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