2020 POTD Thread Archive

[GoceKU]

Today, after work i stop by the steel yard bought me couple of angle iron and some straight and got to making the pit surround, i used 2"x 2" angle iron 8mm thick and 1,5" flat iron for the top edge, i also added angle piece in the corners. I welded both sides and added two temperley pieces in the middle to keep it from bown in and out. I gave my mig welder a workout but manage to get it done. Tomorrow i need to go and buy the rest of the materials for pouring and utilities. Today it turn out to be a 19 hour hard work day.

 

[extropic]

I recommend digging a sump hole in the pit floor, rather than just leave the floor flat. If the pit should ever become flooded, even if you can pump it out, the last inch of water is a real pain to remove. I apologize for recommending additional work, but now is the time to do it. With all the random bits you come up with, you may already have an appropriate sump liner and grating on hand (LOL).

 

[Superburban]

Could he just slope the floor for a drain, and put in a drain that goes to a corner, and up to a nipple exiting the floor? Then if needed he could hook a sump pump to the nipple and pump out the pit.

 

[GoceKU]

The plan is to slope the pit towards the garage door and in the middle, and to dig a sump with a steel cover. I also plan to install a pump and hose to the drain to pump out any liquids that come out.

 

[GoceKU]

Today i had to pull a double shift at work and when i got home i was pretty tired. But the sand i brought had gotten delivered and that got me motivated to do some work in the pit, first i drilled 80mm hole in the garage floor near the wall with the electrical box, then i use the same big drill to tunnel under the garage floor and run conduit all the way around two sides of the pit. I plan to form and pour this pit in solid concrete with steel in halves, one small and one big side at a time. I also dig a trench where i'll cast the light pockets. By the time i was done it was past midnight. Good thing my neighbors know me well a person looking from outside will think i'm making a bunker.

 

[GoceKU]

Today i got my cement delivered, it is in 50kg bags i stored them outside and cover them in fear of rain, also from the same place i bought steel mesh for concrete and a few bars for the corners. I told the driver to deliver the mesh in one piece thinking i'll just dropped it in but i ended cutting it in pisces for every side separately, it's just so hard to bend and unwildly at that size.

 

[BGHansen]

Today i got my cement delivered, it is in 50kg bags i stored them outside and cover them in fear of rain, also from the same place i bought steel mesh for concrete and a few bars for the corners. I told the driver to deliver the mesh in one piece thinking i'll just dropped it in but i ended cutting it in pisces for every side separately, it's just so hard to bend and unwildly at that size.
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I'm really impressed with your energy level. I'd have gone to bed and dreamed about working on the pit.

Bruce

 

[Winegrower]

In the course of replacing the fork seals on my Honda ST1100 the seals must be pressed into place, but they are recessed in the cylinder holding the forks by a half inch or so. And it takes pretty good force to seat them. Honda makes a special tool for this, but it’s over $80 i hear. So i made this tool instead, and in the process had to make a crude boring bar with a random insert, screw and hunk of square bar. Somewhat surprising, it worked very well, with minimal deflection and excellent surface finish in 303 stainless.
You slide this over the fork and slam it down to seat the seal. The ID just clears the fork by a few thousandths, the smaller OD reaches in to contact the seal, and the larger OD adds mass to give the tool more punch...much needed, too.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

continuing on the topic of suspension, I just finished repairing the damper on my Cannondale mountain bike. The upper damper shaft had worn and the top damper nut was damaged, allowing all the oil to leak out and coat the bike, as well as making it a misery to ride.

old parts


piston cut off and shaft turned down to reveal threads (surprise! no wonder it wouldn't press off)


a piece of 1/2 W2 TGP rod bored and threaded 7/16-28tpi. Then drilled all the way through to just over 5/16. That was an adventure!


new top nut made out of delrin, with the seal grooves cut. That necessitated making an internal grooving bar to fit out of 1/2" O1.


finished parts and old top nut


damper shaft reassembled. The air piston, which I made many moons ago, is at the top.

damper reassembled and filled with oil


and put back on the bike


doesn't seem to leak, but I'll check it again after a few rides. Feels ok, a little stiff, but hopefully the new piston seal will wear in a touch. Only took me 7 or 8 years to get round to this!

 

[pontiac428]

That's a lot of effort to keep a (expletive) Headshok alive. I never had good luck with them, and C'dale wasn't good about making tools available. Then they came back and said it's not recommended for riders over 200 lbs... Looks good, though.