2018 POTD Thread Archive

Nicely presented repair brino.
Thanks!
I can't see from your photos if the alloy conrod runs direct on the crank pin or if there is a bearing shell.
The alloy rod runs directly on the crank; No bearing.
Hydrochloric acid would dissolve smeared alloy from the iron cylinders, should work on crank pins, needs a good wash in soda afterwards.
That's a great tip, thanks for sharing it!

My research shows this is a very common failure of the Tecumseh 9HP (and other size) engines. One reason given is the throttle getting stuck wide open. That wasn't my problem, but there certainly was some discolouration at the bottom of the connecting rod, it got HOT. Often it puts a big hole in the side of the block.

In my case the damage was limited. The piston and cylinder were pristine.

-brino
 
Brino- very nice repair. I hope you filled it with synthetic. That stuff is great in cold weather and on well used components
 
The damage reminded me of my Matchless twin motorcycle (I was a foolish youth) they had a reputation for the big ends letting go. Mine did that while I was overtaking a truck, BIG bang and exploded crankcase, much smoke and locked rear wheel, slightly elevated heart rate. Crank case wasn't repairable as most of it was missing.
Dredb

Hi Dredb,
this gave me a chuckle. My Matchless G12 was stolen two weeks after a total rebuild and tune.
The next day I found the large crankshaft locking washer for the main sprocket still in the tool box. I must admit to giving a chuckle and invoking a spot of karma.
I received a call from the police about 7 years after the event asking if I was the owner of a matchless motorcycle registration number ???.
When I said yes they asked if I wanted it back stating it wasnt complete.
It seems there was only half a crankcase with a hole in the side, the fuel tank and front forks.
Looks like karma hit hard.
I loved that bike, the speedo was a smiths chronometric and I had it on the 140 mph pin many a time.
One time on the M4 I was bent over the tank flat out dressed in sandals, shorts, (no helmet in those days) when a red sports car of Italian origin flew past me as if I was standing still.
To add insult to injury there was a puff of smoke from the exhaust as he changed up a gear.
I slowed down to a comfortable speed then.
Ahh, good ole days.
 
This project has been going on for nearly a month. I've been tasked to make some 120 inch ounce torque meters for the Rubber Band Model Airplane fliers. Seems they want to know how much torque they are putting on the "motors" of their airplanes. I've made maybe 20 of these in the past couple of years, so I set out to make a dozen. Well, my scrap rate being what it is, I started 14 of them. I've got all the parts made for them, and a couple assembled, thought some of you here might enjoy my travail.
The entire unit is assembled on the left. After I ship it to my son for sale he applies a scale (purchased mm scale just the right length to accommodate the circumference of the tube) that goes from 0 to 12 with ten marks between each number.
Note the pointer on the unit, attached to the right end. This pointer is secured to the end cap which is secured to the output shaft (5/16 by 3" with threads on the right end. This assembly floats inside the rest of the unit. The spring and its collar are fixed to the shaft, the other end of the spring is fixed to the round T shaped piece on the left end. The entire unit is mounted on the end of a hand cranked device to wind the propeller rubber. As the winder is turned the whole torque meter turns with it. As the rubber band gets tighter it winds the spring inside, moving the pointer relative to the scale. The operator has to stop winding to see the resulting torque reading.
The six 4-40 flathead Philips head screws, six 5-40 1/8 set screws, the two bronze bushings and the thrust bearing (blue) are purchased items. I fabricate all the rest from purchased stock.

Merrill tm exploded.jpg

There's a great deal of relief on my part when I've got all the parts made. I can assemble one in 15 minutes when an order comes in.
 
savarin, yes it was very common for bikes to get stolen, there were no keys, you could just start them up and ride away. I've had 3 AMC twins, never found them reliable, noisy, used to eat cam followers, leak oil and vibrate. Very difficult to love! Did I mention they vibrated a lot? I might put more effort into sorting them out now but this was 50 years ago. I never had a problem with the singles, they used the same frame and running gear but the engines were Brilliant, not exactly high performance but smooth and comfortable and very reliable. I still have a 1960 Matchless G3LS, I'm repainting the frame and replacing the gearbox bearings, hoping to get it on the road later this year. I will post photos of progress if there is any interest.
Dredb
 
This project has been going on for nearly a month. I've been tasked to make some 120 inch ounce torque meters for the Rubber Band Model Airplane fliers. Seems they want to know how much torque they are putting on the "motors" of their airplanes. I've made maybe 20 of these in the past couple of years, so I set out to make a dozen. Well, my scrap rate being what it is, I started 14 of them. I've got all the parts made for them, and a couple assembled, thought some of you here might enjoy my travail.
The entire unit is assembled on the left. After I ship it to my son for sale he applies a scale (purchased mm scale just the right length to accommodate the circumference of the tube) that goes from 0 to 12 with ten marks between each number.
Note the pointer on the unit, attached to the right end. This pointer is secured to the end cap which is secured to the output shaft (5/16 by 3" with threads on the right end. This assembly floats inside the rest of the unit. The spring and its collar are fixed to the shaft, the other end of the spring is fixed to the round T shaped piece on the left end. The entire unit is mounted on the end of a hand cranked device to wind the propeller rubber. As the winder is turned the whole torque meter turns with it. As the rubber band gets tighter it winds the spring inside, moving the pointer relative to the scale. The operator has to stop winding to see the resulting torque reading.
The six 4-40 flathead Philips head screws, six 5-40 1/8 set screws, the two bronze bushings and the thrust bearing (blue) are purchased items. I fabricate all the rest from purchased stock.

merrill-tm-exploded-jpg.254700



There's a great deal of relief on my part when I've got all the parts made. I can assemble one in 15 minutes when an order comes in.

Copied from where I first posted it in error.
 
I've had 3 AMC twins, never found them reliable, noisy, used to eat cam followers, leak oil and vibrate. Very difficult to love! Did I mention they vibrated a lot?
Dredb

Ha Ha, I had 2x350's (G5's?) the fake unit construction types. Horrible machines, one AJS and the other Matchless, both appalling bikes.
The handling was terrible and I swear the frames would twist when under heavy braking. I couldnt give them away.
 
Tonight I made a 2.125 x 5 tpi stub to match the spindle on my LeBlond 13. I need to make mounting plates for 3 and 4 jaw chucks. This is the first time I have actually used wires to measure the threads as I cut them. It matches my spindle dead on. If I find time this weekend I'll put it to use checking the plates as I cut them.20180117_194004.jpg
 
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