2016 POTD Thread Archive

[wawoodman]

Been trying to get the new shop finished. The guys I hired took 2 months to poor concrete and put up 22 x 16 garage. now here I am trying to get the inside done before we get snow
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View attachment 140346 View attachment 140347

That looks like it's going to be just dandy! Before you move in the machines, you might consider a floor. I used Dri-Core

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DRIcore-...core-Subfloor-Panel-CDGNUS750024024/202268752

and it's much nicer to stand on, than concrete.

 

[intjonmiller]

I thought I made it clear that I understand that, and the damage was done before I received the mill. Just showing a photo for the sake of anyone who wasn't aware of that issue, or doubted it.

 

[TOOLMASTER]

outgrew the socket rack I made a while ago...made a bigger one for my 1/4" bits

 

[wawoodman]

I thought I made it clear that I understand that, and the damage was done before I received the mill. Just showing a photo for the sake of anyone who wasn't aware of that issue, or doubted it.

Didn't mean to insult you. But it seemed that you were saying that you had replaced the broken drill chuck with another one, and were going to continue using it to hold milling cutters.

If I misunderstood, I apologize.

 

[dave_r_1]

Fixed my Breville 2-slice "a bit more" toaster, where the toasting mechanism wouldn't stay down (you could hold the lever down and it would heat up, but it would pop up right away when you let go).

Figured out how to take it apart
-10 visible screws on the bottom
-2 more hidden by the slide-out crumb tray
-you pry out the feet in the 4 corners and unscrew the 4 torx screws underneath them
-pull off the knob on the lever you push down
-then you can work the top of the toaster off, unplugging it from the circuit board as you go
-then when it's off, you can unscrew the ground strap

At this point, you can see the circuit board, but there is a protective plastic piece over the back of it. There is a screw fastening it down, then a clip on each end of the circuit board holding it in place. Once the circuit is free, you can remove the plastic backing.

It uses a small electromagnet to hold/release a small hook that holds the mechanism down, and that electromagnet didn't seem to be getting power. I hit the electromagnet's connections with a soldering iron, tried it and it worked fine again.

 

[roadie33]

Fixed my Breville 2-slice "a bit more" toaster, where the toasting mechanism wouldn't stay down (you could hold the lever down and it would heat up, but it would pop up right away when you let go).

Figured out how to take it apart
-10 visible screws on the bottom
-2 more hidden by the slide-out crumb tray
-you pry out the feet in the 4 corners and unscrew the 4 torx screws underneath them
-pull off the knob on the lever you push down
-then you can work the top of the toaster off, unplugging it from the circuit board as you go
-then when it's off, you can unscrew the ground strap

At this point, you can see the circuit board, but there is a protective plastic piece over the back of it. There is a screw fastening it down, then a clip on each end of the circuit board holding it in place. Once the circuit is free, you can remove the plastic backing.

It uses a small electromagnet to hold/release a small hook that holds the mechanism down, and that electromagnet didn't seem to be getting power. I hit the electromagnet's connections with a soldering iron, tried it and it worked fine again.

Good job Dave.

I bet you're the "Toast of the Town" or should i say House, now!

 

[Billh51]

I've always been a little paranoid about damaging/denting the threaded end of my 3C collet drawbar. The tube is pretty thin and I've worried about it getting knocked about or accidently dropped, denting the threaded end. Sometimes I'd just store it with a collet threaded into it. That worked, but I was not really satisfied. So today I set about to rectify the situation by making a threaded plug to go in it and protect it from damage when not in the lathe. First off I didn't realize it was an oddball thread - .640" x 26tpi. After a little research I found this thread size goes back well over 100 years. Originally it was .645" x 26 tpi, but in more recent times it was standardized to .640". I started with a 3/4" aluminum round stock since I had a 6" piece in my scrap bin. After turning, threading and knurling, I now have a nice plug to protect the drawbar.

Nice clean work on the plug, should serve you well to protect the collet tube. Well done.

 

[dave_r_1]

Good job Dave.

I bet you're the "Toast of the Town" or should i say House, now!

Thanks. This seems to be a pretty common failure mode for toasters. I had hoped Breville would be different, but nope...

 

[David S]

Dave,

Sometimes it can be due to crumbs getting into the air gap of the electro magnet. This can cause it not to hold down as well.

Glad you fixed them. We used to manufacture toasters and toaster ovens here in Brockville.

David

 

[Groundhog]

Figured out how to take it apart
-10 visible screws on the bottom
-2 more hidden by the slide-out crumb tray
-you pry out the feet in the 4 corners and unscrew the 4 torx screws underneath them
-pull off the knob on the lever you push down
-then you can work the top of the toaster off, unplugging it from the circuit board as you go
-then when it's off, you can unscrew the ground strap

Probably more value in screws than my El-cheapo toaster is worth in total!