2016 POTD Thread Archive

[TOOLMASTER]

this is how.

I agree, the sound is important. I don't understand how someone can enjoy riding a vehicle that can be heard 10 mins before it arrives.

I just love the whole design john, never thought of doing a muffler that can be opened up. I bet you could fine tune the noise by placing a baffle between the inlet, and outlet tubes, with the size adjusted for sound.

 

[ecdez]

nice mold..did you use tapered pins?

No, I have a press fit on one side and a reamed hole on the other.

 

[Superburban]

Thats great.

this is how.

 

[dieselshadow]

I made a reducing adapter to replace a broken plastic fitting in the cooling system on my wife's car. The adapter is an o-ring male to a smaller o-ring female socket. It has a small orifice built in that allows a small amount of coolant to bleed back to the recovery tank. My replacement fitting is barbed to male o-ring socket. I think it turned out pretty nice. I just wish I had the correct sized constant-pressure clamp instead a worm-clamp. In the one picture you can see the male nipple from the hose is broken off inside the adapter in the top of the pic. The bottom adapter is new and came with the replacement water outlet housing. You can see how they fit together. Very frustrating to see all this brittle plastic in a modern cooling system.

 

[eugene13]

very nice, you'll never break this one

 

[428Bird]

I stripped, cleaned and oiled the tailstock for my Holbrook C16.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Groundhog]

More progress on the exhaust system part of my XS650 project.

Looks good, also looks like a whole lot of work. I made an exhaust system for my Duc last spring (I purchased a scratch & dent can though) - so I now understand why they get so much $ for a system.

Are you going to pack it with fiberglass or stainless wool?

 

[johnnyc14]

Looks good, also looks like a whole lot of work. I made an exhaust system for my Duc last spring (I purchased a scratch & dent can though) - so I now understand why they get so much $ for a system.

Are you going to pack it with fiberglass or stainless wool?

Thanks, it was way more work than I thought it would be, but of course that's the fun part. I have a bag of FMF muffler packing stuff used for 2 stroke dirt bike mufflers and I might try it here but I'll probably try it without to start and see how it sounds.

 

[ndnchf]

I've always been a little paranoid about damaging/denting the threaded end of my 3C collet drawbar. The tube is pretty thin and I've worried about it getting knocked about or accidently dropped, denting the threaded end. Sometimes I'd just store it with a collet threaded into it. That worked, but I was not really satisfied. So today I set about to rectify the situation by making a threaded plug to go in it and protect it from damage when not in the lathe. First off I didn't realize it was an oddball thread - .640" x 26tpi. After a little research I found this thread size goes back well over 100 years. Originally it was .645" x 26 tpi, but in more recent times it was standardized to .640". I started with a 3/4" aluminum round stock since I had a 6" piece in my scrap bin. After turning, threading and knurling, I now have a nice plug to protect the drawbar.

 

[T Bredehoft]

I realized that the lead screw in my MK2 lathe had a bind in its rotation. It was always stiff. After removing the banjo, I loosened everything up and started snugging the screws back down. With everything loose the lead screw turned nicely. as I snugged the screws down, it developed a drag on one side. My first thought was "bent lead screw" but the old 'indicator and V block' trick showed no run-out. Next I rigged a method to check out "No. 046-045" the "bearing Left, feed screw." I suspected it because the inboard end of the bore looked 'way off center. It turned out to have .006 lack of parallel to the mounting surface. Judicious use of the belt sander returned it to about .0005.
Prior to this, pieces turned to diameter generally appeared to have an alternating stripe pattern, changing about every 1/16". I had wondered if one of the gears was eccentric, but since this repair the stripes are gone. An hour well spent.