2016 POTD Thread Archive

I made more progress on the studs for my banjo/change gear project. The only thing left to do to the studs is mill the 19mm hex on them. One thing for sure, whatever i do next it's not going to require making 8 to 10 copies of everything, as the repetitiveness gets a little tiresome.
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This air compressor was given to me by a customer for connecting his new one. It had a burned up motor, so I found a unused 5hp, 3450 RPM motor on Craigslist for $125. So today the kids and I got it off of the floor. We are running out of space to on the walls but had an air compressor sized space above the entry door and solid attaching points on either side. A quick search of the metal rack turned up enough pieces to build the platform. Now I just need to get it wired up and connected into the air system. It won't be used that much but the extra 80 gallons of air capacity will be nice, and I can kick it in if I need more air for sand blasting or other high usages.

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The old nut is getting worn out...no not me the lead screw's nut! So, I decided I better get a replacement made before she gets so bad she can't cut a new one. Bronze rod is on order so, during the wait I did a little coarse threading practice to see if the ol' half nut had anything left to give. She looks consistent and measured 6 tpi as best I can tell with calipers. I guess I can trust her to do some .787-6 LH Internal ACME for me....knock on wood!
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I stripped, cleaned and oiled the tailstock for my Holbrook C16.a68701a6026b3de0577acd5e7a2ed14d.jpg



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Nothing like a little fresh paint to spiff things up. Of course, now you may feel the need to do the rest of the machine.:) Mike

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When I got my mill the manufacture had installed Align power feeds on the X and Z axis, overall they are well built and work nicely. I really didn't care for the Z axis stop setup that used a cheesy two piece T slot to set the stops. It sagged in the middle and the spacers where not setup correctly. I thought of milling my own channel, but ended up some 80/20 T channel extrusion which worked very nicely. I did some milling to the T slot and the foot of the stops so everything fit, milled the standoff out of 6061 rod. T slot is now straight and rigid. I have always been misplacing the Z axis handle and the wrench for the mill head, so figured I would mount these on the T slot. The wrench is a friction fit a slotted holder, slighter wider in the slot so it locks in. The Z axis handle mounts on a ball detent steel post, and has a locking pin to keep the handle from swinging. Keeps everything handy, but out of the way.
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As I previously mentioned, I finally got the round column mill from my brother, after months of other projects taking priority, then building the bench for it and arranging the garage to accommodate it. I doubt it had been turned on in a decade, thus he talked like I was doing him a favor for taking it. Ha! I'm happy to help! :)

Because he was trying to use it, after getting it from our father, in the days before YouTube, this forum, and most other accessible resources we now enjoy, he was flying completely blind. So it's understandable that he tried to use the drill chuck to hold an end mill, as there was no other tool holding options included when he got it. (And I recently learned that my father never even used this mill, as my parents moved to a smaller home before he had a chance. He got it, the surface grinder, and the lathe, all of which now live in my garage, as payment from a client who was unable to pay their original terms. He's excited to now come and use it in my garage.)

Anyway, this is what happens when you try to mill with an end mill in a drill chuck (not to mention the chuck coming off of its arbor, which REALLY confused my brother):

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The chuck is broken (anyone think of a use for it now??), and the end mill is thoroughly beat up. Sides still look good so I'll keep it around for side milling something someday.

Thanks to a tip from John HMan, I got the practically glued-in old drill arbor removed, and a new Shars keyless drill chuck installed. I went with the smaller size because I don't have any bits with shanks over 1/2", and I have plenty of smaller ones. JT33 arbor, just like the lathe chuck, so I can use this one (and the keyed one I've been using on the lathe, with its 5/8" capacity) on either machine.

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A few more things I have to prioritize before I can allow myself to turn it on and make some chips, but it's good to finally have it here so I can as soon as I'm ready. :)
 
As I previously mentioned, I finally got the round column mill from my brother, after months of other projects taking priority, then building the bench for it and arranging the garage to accommodate it. I doubt it had been turned on in a decade, thus he talked like I was doing him a favor for taking it. Ha! I'm happy to help! :)

Because he was trying to use it, after getting it from our father, in the days before YouTube, this forum, and most other accessible resources we now enjoy, he was flying completely blind. So it's understandable that he tried to use the drill chuck to hold an end mill, as there was no other tool holding options included when he got it. (And I recently learned that my father never even used this mill, as my parents moved to a smaller home before he had a chance. He got it, the surface grinder, and the lathe, all of which now live in my garage, as payment from a client who was unable to pay their original terms. He's excited to now come and use it in my garage.)

Anyway, this is what happens when you try to mill with an end mill in a drill chuck (not to mention the chuck coming off of its arbor, which REALLY confused my brother):

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The chuck is broken (anyone think of a use for it now??), and the end mill is thoroughly beat up. Sides still look good so I'll keep it around for side milling something someday.

Thanks to a tip from John HMan, I got the practically glued-in old drill arbor removed, and a new Shars keyless drill chuck installed. I went with the smaller size because I don't have any bits with shanks over 1/2", and I have plenty of smaller ones. JT33 arbor, just like the lathe chuck, so I can use this one (and the keyed one I've been using on the lathe, with its 5/8" capacity) on either machine.

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A few more things I have to prioritize before I can allow myself to turn it on and make some chips, but it's good to finally have it here so I can as soon as I'm ready. :)

The important lesson here is that A DRILL CHUCK IS NOT DESIGNED FOR MILLING. Do yourself a favor, and get a set of collets. Most of those mills are R-8, which can be had from Shars or any other supplier.
 
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