2016 POTD Thread Archive

Here is a tool I just finished up (have been needing / wanting ) this for quite a while just hadn't gotten around to it. This is built to fit my 10x22 King lathe . The plans were taken from another site but are dimensionally correct. The main body is milled from a discarded pressure disk from a heavy truck clutch ( highway tractor) and an excellent source of cast iron , this one came from a damaged in shipping clutch so was in touched.. I might add that it machined beautifully. The pressure screw and jam nut are from 3/4" 1144. threaded 3/8"-16tpi.


Update on the carriage stop! It would appear that cast either wasn't the material to use or I was ALOT closer to the shoulder than I was thinking I was? Ultimately the upper portion of the stop split at the top angle relief cut. It would appear that I gained some valuable experience and get to try again... The stop did work well as long as I was paying attention to what was going on.
 
Yea, me too. My next project from his plans is the gyroscope. I'm trying to get my gran daughter (15 yr. old) something of interest to do as she has shown some interest in what I do in the shop/shed.
where did you get the plans for the gyro ? i too would like to build one. . .
 
Finished up on the spindle LED light for my mill. Turned some 1/2" aluminum plate turned down to 0.400" and milled a recess for the spindle so the LED holder would extend only 0.075" below the current spindle ram. It does not interfere with the use of an Indicol indicator holder. I used a 100 mm LED halo light, that is then recessed into the holder and notched out for the wiring. Having a larger diameter LED ring larger then the spindle ram allowed me to recess it deeper and it has less shadows from tooling. I also use a 24" LED bar in the back, provides very nice general lighting of the table with minimal shadows.
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Mark, where did you acquire the round LED?
 
These are halo or Angel Eyes ring lights. I was also looking at some of the camera ring lights, but the car ones have a very small profile for the light output. They draw ~300 mA at 12VDC, they work quite well in conjunction with other lightening, and remove some of the shadowing of more traditional lighting. I do not use the plastic lens that comes with these to keep the profile low (5 mm), the LEDs/ring seems to be encased with silicone rubber, and I used silicone sealant to attach the aluminum holder (makes the ring replaceable). Also insulates the wire attachments with a thin strip of electrical tape and used heat shrink over the wires for durability.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-100mm-Ul...-Ring-Fog-DRL-Light-Bulb-12V-DC-/262663813946
 
Last week I got a 4" four Jaw chuck for my mill. I have a 3 Jaw on an R8 shank and although the new 4 jaw mated right up with the boss on the R8 shank, it had a four bolt M8-1.25 mount. I probably did this the "hack" way but I used a drill bit that slipped right in the hole to locate the holes. The drill bit was hard to tell if it went in perfectly straight. ....Anyway, today I made some pins that fit down into bolt holes for the common sizes : 5/16-18 , 1/4-20 , 3/8-16 , 7/16-20 , 1/2-13 , M12-1.75 . Will make another for M8-1.25 and M10 . I used some 01 bar stock I have. I put around a 2 thou taper on them. The piece in the video is an old shank from a long drill bit . Being hardened, it was a little more difficult to mill. The 01 was not hardened and cut like butter.
Two of them I went just that little bit too far and over cut them...scrap for next time.
The inserts are TNMG432 on a 1" bar in the vise, light cuts.
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PinsZoomed.jpg Pins-setup.jpg
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This was the test cut , the 01 cut much smoother. I just wanted to see if this was possible, side cutting in the mill and spinning the work .

 
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