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2016 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter sanddan
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Thats it Mike. I've seen where they make a tapered roller to match the angle of the track, but it doesn't roll easily. The circumference of the roller of course changes with the taper so part of the wheel is always skidding, and trying to climb the taper. I used a 6200 series bearing with a 3/4 ID, and pressed them into about a 2 inch roller. Doesn't matter if the load is at one side or centre of the cross beam you can roll it the length of the shop with one hand. The shop is 24 wide so each crane is about a 12 foot span.
Greg
Greg
The machine shop section is around 12x22, so just about right as is. The metal fab area is around 20' wide so I guess I will have to do the math for the cross beam on that one. Thanks for all your help. This gives me a great place to start when I get back in the spring. Mike
This is my first project of the day. It is very simple, but a milestone for me. I had to make two lathe form cutters to match the exterior and interior radius of a part.
The part is a bumper mounted trunk rack rest for a 1930 Packard. Yup, there should be hyphens there abouts.
When the trunk rack was lowered, it rested on a couple of leather stops that were mounted to the bumper. Here is an example from a similar car (via Tom Laferriere).
The part is simple: a 7/16 hex head with a 3/8" threaded post. The hard part for me was creating the recess which held the leather disk that acts as the actual trunk rack rest.
And then the world fell apart, as ideas collided, and images melded. Nothing made sense. It was more than a rock miner miner could handle...
Uh, anyway,
I made a tool that would create the outer radius (a compound radius).
I also made a tool to create the inside radius. Both radii were based on the original part.
Lots of chatter for the inside radius tool.
The original piece was machine from a single piece of hex stock. I decided to machine the head, thread it for 3/8"-24, and insert the appropriate threaded studs.
She interrupted me, just as I was getting my groove.
"If you want to be clear, you need to THINK before you write, for crissake". Just then, the Griwaldi descended upon our little colony.
Anyhoo,
Final product.
Total time: way longer than I thought it would take.
Cheers,
Tom
The part is a bumper mounted trunk rack rest for a 1930 Packard. Yup, there should be hyphens there abouts.
When the trunk rack was lowered, it rested on a couple of leather stops that were mounted to the bumper. Here is an example from a similar car (via Tom Laferriere).
The part is simple: a 7/16 hex head with a 3/8" threaded post. The hard part for me was creating the recess which held the leather disk that acts as the actual trunk rack rest.
And then the world fell apart, as ideas collided, and images melded. Nothing made sense. It was more than a rock miner miner could handle...
Uh, anyway,
I made a tool that would create the outer radius (a compound radius).
I also made a tool to create the inside radius. Both radii were based on the original part.
Lots of chatter for the inside radius tool.
The original piece was machine from a single piece of hex stock. I decided to machine the head, thread it for 3/8"-24, and insert the appropriate threaded studs.
She interrupted me, just as I was getting my groove.
"If you want to be clear, you need to THINK before you write, for crissake". Just then, the Griwaldi descended upon our little colony.
Anyhoo,
Final product.
Total time: way longer than I thought it would take.
Cheers,
Tom
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Photobucket wasn't working when i posted yesterday on my motorcycle fuse block relocation. So, because everyone loves pics:
Before
Crammed in on top of the battery and under the bolted on faux tank cover. All slow basted in engine heat from directly below it. The ignition box is buried under all of that and also sitting right on top of the engine heat. Heat is the mortal enemy of electronics.
After
Out away from the engine, good flow of cooling air from the vents, standard modern ATO fuses, easily accessed on a break down as there's a simple hinged door that fits over the opening. Adds one extra fused circuit if I need it too. The ignition box is replaced with a modern digital programmable ignition and is located in the opening ahead of the fuse compartment.
Still to do: wire up an accessory pos/neg terminal for accessories. Make a trim panel to cover over the solder joints and space between the boxes to make the area just look a bit more "finished" when the door is opened. Also to keep just general "gash" away from the contacts. Then make a small storage box for the forward opening and to bolt the ignition box to for support.
Today: pull the engine and start getting it ready for the VMax heads and the 2002 Royal Star Venture transmission transplant.
Once done, the engine will be pretty much a carbon copy of this one for looks:
That one is a vmax engine with Venture valve covers and cylinder plates. Mine will be a venture engine with the Vmax heads, which is essentially is what a Vmax is. That is one good looking 'Max though!
Before
Crammed in on top of the battery and under the bolted on faux tank cover. All slow basted in engine heat from directly below it. The ignition box is buried under all of that and also sitting right on top of the engine heat. Heat is the mortal enemy of electronics.
After
Out away from the engine, good flow of cooling air from the vents, standard modern ATO fuses, easily accessed on a break down as there's a simple hinged door that fits over the opening. Adds one extra fused circuit if I need it too. The ignition box is replaced with a modern digital programmable ignition and is located in the opening ahead of the fuse compartment.
Still to do: wire up an accessory pos/neg terminal for accessories. Make a trim panel to cover over the solder joints and space between the boxes to make the area just look a bit more "finished" when the door is opened. Also to keep just general "gash" away from the contacts. Then make a small storage box for the forward opening and to bolt the ignition box to for support.
Today: pull the engine and start getting it ready for the VMax heads and the 2002 Royal Star Venture transmission transplant.
Once done, the engine will be pretty much a carbon copy of this one for looks:
That one is a vmax engine with Venture valve covers and cylinder plates. Mine will be a venture engine with the Vmax heads, which is essentially is what a Vmax is. That is one good looking 'Max though!
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Yep. But there's also the fact that once done (excluding my labor) I'll have a VMax powered touring bike with less than 3 grand (including purchase price) in it.
You couldn't buy this type of bike if you wanted one either. Well, I suppose you could if you (shop that specializes in VMaxes) wanted to drop more coin at a specialty shop than you would for a new Goldwing.Sean Morely built a similar one for a guy but no one knows how many greenbacks it went out the door for:
Even then, that's a nice bike but there are many things not the way I would do/want them. If you want it your way, you just gotta roll up your sleeves and get it done yourself.
My labor is a fun winter project to keep me busy and is enjoyable, so that's not really money spent but satisfaction gained.
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no worries brother, we're meaning the same thing and just saying it different ways.