2015 POTD Thread Archive

I use collets for a lot of my projects which involve turning brass. Advantages are easily under 0.001” run out (at least with my set up) and no marring of the brass when chucking up in collets. Pretty rapid stock changes too with the lever style adapter on my Grizzly G0709 lathe.

One thing I don’t like about my lever style closer is changing collets. I can get about a half-turn on the hub adjusting sleeve by hand, need 10-12 full turns to tighten/loosen the collet. Not a big deal other than it takes time and patience.

My solution was a drive hub for the back side of the draw bar tube and a driving adapter powered by a cordless drill. Materials at hand were a 2” round of 303 stainless for the tube hub, a 1 3/8” aluminum round for the drive adapter and a piece of ½” CRS for the drive arbor.

Pictures detail the project. Pretty happy with the end result, the cordless drill makes short work of spinning the draw bar tube when changing collets.

Bruce

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For my next mill project I will need to use a slotting saw. The blades were bought on Ebay a few months ago, but I still needed an arbor so I made one today.

View attachment 117587

It's for blades with a 5/8" hole. I copied the design from downloaded plans.

Another project of mine that is on the "to do" list. My cheapie boughten one is junk.

Mike.
 
For my next mill project I will need to use a slotting saw. The blades were bought on Ebay a few months ago, but I still needed an arbor so I made one today.

View attachment 117587

It's for blades with a 5/8" hole. I copied the design from downloaded plans.
What material did you use and we're the plans uploaded here ? I just needed one of these myself thanks for posting.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
Firestopper, yes I assume everyone has the regulators as well, what are you gonna do without them lol, not what I meant tho, what happened to me was I had a brand new bottle of argon, what like 2000psi, and the UHP helium was about 500psi, so just using a y connector to tie the two gases together prior to getting to the machine is not sufficient, argon will flow into the lower pressure bottle, I was able to get it to work but it was very finicky, I would get both regulators showing a 10cfh flow rate, stop and go again and I could tell that the argon bottle was forcing the helium out, it was inconsistent, the inline check valves are a must because of the pressure differential, well as long as you want to maintain your set flow rate.
 
My latest project took several days and doesn't look very impressive at all.

I saw a set of angles on ebay and the price was pretty good, but I didn't know if I already had a similar set so I refrained from bidding. There was no time to check before the auction ended.

To avoid this in the future, I made a "property book" similar to the ones the military uses. I did a pretty good inventory then entered everything into an Excel spreadsheet. I assigned each item a group code and an item code. I also entered size, cost, brand, model, etc.

It turned out that I had quite a bit more than I thought, but did not have the set of angles that I didn't bid on.
 
+1!!! It's always surprising how much we all have invested in our avocation. And a "property book" can be vital in case of theft or other loss.
 
There was a bad boy forest fire a few miles from my place this summer, I took pictures of all my stuff, lucked out and the wind shifted, so it didn't cross the river and get me

Supposedly some idiot working on demoing an ol car dumped gas on the ground and lit it off, why idk lol
 
It might not be "pretty" but I think I'm going to copy some of your design as I have two motorcycle builds in need of alignments and this looks like it would work very well.

Thanks for posting,

-Ron
No problem, glad to be of some service.
 
What material did you use and we're the plans uploaded here ? I just needed one of these myself thanks for posting.

I had to think about this for awhile because at the time I just printed-out the plans and kept them in the shop until needed, but I remembered they were from a Ebay auction. Search on Ebay for "sovereignmachinetool" and in the auction pictures for the arbor they are nice enough to include the drawings. Not that there is anything new here as all these arbors seem to follow the same basic design.

I just used 12L14 for the arbor. It's not like I'm going to wear it out using it a few times a year.

Since many people seemed to dig this project, here's an action shot on the lathe.

arbor_2.jpg

The arbor is ~1.0" at it's largest diameter but you can only get ~3/4" through the old SB's spindle hole so I had to use the steady rest. It worked-out pretty well. Here's you can see the one piece about to be parted-off. Next I was able to do the drilling, tapping and boring in the main part without moving the rest. After that was done, the rest was removed and a bull-nose live center was used to support the work for the turning down to 3/4" at the one end.

It was a fun project. Hopefully I'll be able to see how it works in a few days.
 
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