2015 POTD Thread Archive

Firestopper, no a simple manifold will not be sufficient, you need check valves installed into both gas lines, before they Y into one, also need dual flow meters, if one bottle is higher pressure it could backfill the other bottle.... it was kind of a pain for me to get the mix right without having check valves installed. Ended up waisting more UHP helium because my argon bottle was higher pressure...
 
How come all of a sudden when I post pics here they end up on there side?

Mark
I wonder if you reduce the size of the pic if it will be right. I am wondering if the pic is to wide for the screen at the size it is so it turns it to fit.
 
How come all of a sudden when I post pics here they end up on there side?

Mark

Check your camera settings. My camera has a setting that 'imprints' the orientation of the photo on the file. Perhaps the software running this site reads that information and decides for you how the photo should look.

In my camera, I turned that setting to off. If you need your camera to tell you which way is up, I doth think your vestibular system's off.
 
Savarin it could but I have no trouble anywhere else with them. I have to look back at some of the last ones and see what way they were taken.

Mark
I have had the same problem with photos on here. Check tomorrow and they magically straighten themselves out. at least mine seem to.
 
Built the arduino interface and Bluetooth module for my dro setup.

Hooked it up to a caliper and fired up the Android dro app from yuris toys.

Fired up the arduino and it took the sketch (ie:,program) just fine.

Dro program hooked up to the Bluetooth module but I wasnt getting any data.

Went back to yuris site and discovered I didn't read closely enough. The arduino version doesn't work with Chinese calipers, only Igauging/accurite scales.

So, I'm faced with either buying iguaging/accurite scales at somewhere around 100 bucks a pop (closer to 200 for the z axis after shipping and exchange) or building the launchpad version of the interface and use the Chinese based scale I've already built for my z axis and couple more "cheapies" for the other axis'.

Let's see now: 200-400 for scales or somewhere just shy of 50 bucks to build the interface......hmmmmmm....
 
Made a motorcycle laser alignment tool:

Admittedly, I didn't put a whole lot of effort into making it look pretty. I was after functional and in that respect it was a great success!

Clamp it on and you get alignment and wheel offsets in a few seconds instead of fooling around for a half hour with strings and weights. No more friggin with strings so they aren't contacting the bike stands or anything else in the way.

And with the lasers (unlike strings) there's no doubting the lines are dead nuts straight or worries about knocking or moving something once you've finally got it set up.

I should have built one years ago.

:)

It might not be "pretty" but I think I'm going to copy some of your design as I have two motorcycle builds in need of alignments and this looks like it would work very well.

Thanks for posting,

-Ron
 
For my next mill project I will need to use a slotting saw. The blades were bought on Ebay a few months ago, but I still needed an arbor so I made one today.

arbor_1.jpg

It's for blades with a 5/8" hole. I copied the design from downloaded plans.
 
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Firestopper, no a simple manifold will not be sufficient, you need check valves installed into both gas lines, before they Y into one, also need dual flow meters, if one bottle is higher pressure it could backfill the other bottle.... it was kind of a pain for me to get the mix right without having check valves installed. Ended up waisting more UHP helium because my argon bottle was higher pressure...

Sorry, I was assuming one would have the basic regulator/flow meters installed on cylinders prior to blending. I did fail to call out CV, my apologies.
 
Not a "did it yesterday" project, just a quickie that saves me a lot of time with my 5-C collet chuck when changing collets. My Clausing 5418 has a CDCO 5-C collet chuck that takes a whopping 30 turns of the chuck key to loosen/tighten collets. The chuck key is something like 9 mm square. I didn't show the grinding operation, but started with a 1/4" hex to 3/8" adapter, mounted it in a 5-C collet in a square collet block and ground the flats to make it a 1/4" hex to 9 mm adapter.

I use a $15 HF 12V cordless drill to run the adapter. At that price it's dedicated to the lathe.

Bruce

20151228_133125.jpg 20151228_133149.jpg
 
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