- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
- Messages
- 410
Building a plant stand out of a discarded table with the radial arm saw.
-->SAFETY FIRST<-- Although the radial arm saw (RAS) is very useful, it is one of the most dangerous pieces of powered equipment to use. It can eat your hand, drive the carriage (motor & blade) toward you, and throw wood at you. Be sure that the workpiece and carriage is secure. Be sure that you position yourself so the blade doesn't cut you or the cut pieces don't fly out and hit you. Always wear safety glasses and other appropriate safety gear. Lockout or unplug power when setting up, making adjustments or not using the RAS.
This is a project that to build a plant stand for my wife. I did, more for the experience of using a 1968 Craftsman radial arm saw to cut a round out of a square, per instructions from the RAS book (first picture). It had to be built to take a load of at least 150 pounds. Total cost of project was <$10.00.
1. The second picture shows the table top (from neighbor's trash) cut in half and laminated together by glueing and installing several short drywall screws. After that, I determined the center of the workpiece and drilled a 3/16" hole through it.
2. The third picture shows the starter cuts. I had to block up the workpiece so it would fit on my table.
3. The fourth & fifth picture show the workpiece progressively becoming a circle. To do that, you place a wood screw in the center hole of your workpiece, and mount it to the RAS worktable at the appropriate location. After that, you just make a cut, and turn the workpiece in small increments.
4. When you can't cut anymore wood off of your workpiece, you will need finish off the edge so it's as even as possible. To do this, you will need to remove the blade & guard. rotate the motor so the drill chuck is positioned down, attach a drum rasp or drum sander to the drill chuck, position the workpiece and carriage so you can finish the rounding operation. You will need to clamp the workpiece down as the drum rasp is making contact with it. Sorry, I don't have a picture of this step.
5. The sixth & seventh picture show router bits used to shape finished edges of the top & bottom. Again, I'm just spinning the workpiece against the router bit to do this. To ensure that I would turn the workpiece in the right direction, I drew a directional arrow on it with some chalk.
6. The eighth & ninth picture show the finished product. I laid out and drilled 6 holes to mount furniture casters in it. To expedite the job, I used the drill press for the holes. After that, stain & clear coat. When it was dry, I pressed in the casters.
-->SAFETY FIRST<-- Although the radial arm saw (RAS) is very useful, it is one of the most dangerous pieces of powered equipment to use. It can eat your hand, drive the carriage (motor & blade) toward you, and throw wood at you. Be sure that the workpiece and carriage is secure. Be sure that you position yourself so the blade doesn't cut you or the cut pieces don't fly out and hit you. Always wear safety glasses and other appropriate safety gear. Lockout or unplug power when setting up, making adjustments or not using the RAS.
This is a project that to build a plant stand for my wife. I did, more for the experience of using a 1968 Craftsman radial arm saw to cut a round out of a square, per instructions from the RAS book (first picture). It had to be built to take a load of at least 150 pounds. Total cost of project was <$10.00.
1. The second picture shows the table top (from neighbor's trash) cut in half and laminated together by glueing and installing several short drywall screws. After that, I determined the center of the workpiece and drilled a 3/16" hole through it.
2. The third picture shows the starter cuts. I had to block up the workpiece so it would fit on my table.
3. The fourth & fifth picture show the workpiece progressively becoming a circle. To do that, you place a wood screw in the center hole of your workpiece, and mount it to the RAS worktable at the appropriate location. After that, you just make a cut, and turn the workpiece in small increments.
4. When you can't cut anymore wood off of your workpiece, you will need finish off the edge so it's as even as possible. To do this, you will need to remove the blade & guard. rotate the motor so the drill chuck is positioned down, attach a drum rasp or drum sander to the drill chuck, position the workpiece and carriage so you can finish the rounding operation. You will need to clamp the workpiece down as the drum rasp is making contact with it. Sorry, I don't have a picture of this step.
5. The sixth & seventh picture show router bits used to shape finished edges of the top & bottom. Again, I'm just spinning the workpiece against the router bit to do this. To ensure that I would turn the workpiece in the right direction, I drew a directional arrow on it with some chalk.
6. The eighth & ninth picture show the finished product. I laid out and drilled 6 holes to mount furniture casters in it. To expedite the job, I used the drill press for the holes. After that, stain & clear coat. When it was dry, I pressed in the casters.