- Joined
- Mar 3, 2015
- Messages
- 171
That's when I say, "Oh and my horn quit working, I need a can of beep too."
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2015 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jumps4
- Start date
That's when I say, "Oh and my horn quit working, I need a can of beep too."
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2010
- Messages
- 306
1
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- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
The other day I came across a deal I couldn't resist and picked up a very nice used Marlin mod. 336 30-30 lever gun.
I decided it needed a recoil pad.
I ordered one from Amazon made by Pachmayr, claiming to be a perfect fit. It wasn't. It was about a quarter inch too short.
So, I happened to have one that wasn't big enough for another rifle that was big enough, it just needed to be ground to fit.
First, I had to plug the screw holes with dowels and glue.
Then I drilled new screw holes in the butt, screwed it on, taped the wood and ground the recoil pad to fit on a belt sander.
I got into the wood in a couple places. I must have gotten in a hurry. Nothing that won't touch up.
I must be losing my touch. That's the first time I've ever gotten into the finish. The black rubber on the white stripe will clean off with a little scrubbing.
So, here she is, with a nice cushion for my old shoulder.
I also modified the sling rings. It had rings on them. I cut them off and drilled out the mounting studs for removable sling rings.
I think weather is going to prohibit shooting it until next week. My shooting spot is muddy. Maybe I'll see a pig to shoot at. My friends property is infested with them.
I really like lever guns. I have three now. A couple of Rossi carbines, one in 44 mag. and the other in 357 mag. I put a recoil pad on the 44 mag because it kicked like a mule and wasn't any fun to shoot. It had a steel curved butt. Nobody makes a recoil pad to fit those curved stocks. It is an old gun and I didn't want to mess up the original stock, so I purchased a replacement rear stock and, after 3 days of filing and carving to shape it and bed it to the receiver (I didn't know I was going to have to do that), sanding and finishing and sawing the butt straight, I added a recoil pad. Now, it is fun to shoot and is probably my favorite rifle.
I decided it needed a recoil pad.
I ordered one from Amazon made by Pachmayr, claiming to be a perfect fit. It wasn't. It was about a quarter inch too short.
So, I happened to have one that wasn't big enough for another rifle that was big enough, it just needed to be ground to fit.
First, I had to plug the screw holes with dowels and glue.
Then I drilled new screw holes in the butt, screwed it on, taped the wood and ground the recoil pad to fit on a belt sander.
I got into the wood in a couple places. I must have gotten in a hurry. Nothing that won't touch up.
I must be losing my touch. That's the first time I've ever gotten into the finish. The black rubber on the white stripe will clean off with a little scrubbing.
So, here she is, with a nice cushion for my old shoulder.
I also modified the sling rings. It had rings on them. I cut them off and drilled out the mounting studs for removable sling rings.
I think weather is going to prohibit shooting it until next week. My shooting spot is muddy. Maybe I'll see a pig to shoot at. My friends property is infested with them.
I really like lever guns. I have three now. A couple of Rossi carbines, one in 44 mag. and the other in 357 mag. I put a recoil pad on the 44 mag because it kicked like a mule and wasn't any fun to shoot. It had a steel curved butt. Nobody makes a recoil pad to fit those curved stocks. It is an old gun and I didn't want to mess up the original stock, so I purchased a replacement rear stock and, after 3 days of filing and carving to shape it and bed it to the receiver (I didn't know I was going to have to do that), sanding and finishing and sawing the butt straight, I added a recoil pad. Now, it is fun to shoot and is probably my favorite rifle.
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- Joined
- Mar 3, 2015
- Messages
- 171
Franko,
Nice job keeping line of the stock. It will serve you well.
Nice job keeping line of the stock. It will serve you well.
I have been intending to make guards for that grinder, still looking for the right piece of material. Guards would certainly make it a cleaner process. I want to connect my vacuum to it also.
My really old Chinese made band saw had a rough cast opening where the blade came down to finish a cut. When cutting smal pieces or thin slices of a piece of stock, many times the small cut off would jam in this opening and either break the blade or cause it to jump off. To remedy this, I milled a T shape piece of aluminum to fit in this opening.
The next photo shows the piece in the saw table.
This last photo shows the piece with the blade. This mod only took about an hour to make but is a tremendous improvement in the saw. It also supports small pieces since it is exactly the same height as the table.
In the above photo there is also a small thin plate added to the rear blade guide where the vertical table bolts on. This plate is longer than the guide so when the cut is almost finished the plate blocks the cutoff from jamming between the rear guide and the table.
Now I can confidently set up a cut and walk away. The saw shuts off when done and no more jams causing blade jumping or breaking.
The next photo shows the piece in the saw table.
This last photo shows the piece with the blade. This mod only took about an hour to make but is a tremendous improvement in the saw. It also supports small pieces since it is exactly the same height as the table.
In the above photo there is also a small thin plate added to the rear blade guide where the vertical table bolts on. This plate is longer than the guide so when the cut is almost finished the plate blocks the cutoff from jamming between the rear guide and the table.
Now I can confidently set up a cut and walk away. The saw shuts off when done and no more jams causing blade jumping or breaking.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2014
- Messages
- 658
This is actually from yesterday.
Got my son and his buddy to come over and help move the shop from a 1st floor bedroom into the basement. We moved 2 free standing workbenches, my Sieg SC8 lathe and the bench top for it (made from 4x4 and granite), plus most of the junk. Then we took my new PM450G mill down.
Here are some highlights. Will write up a full post on it later since folks are always asking about moving machines. The mill with base weighs 975lbs (442Kg), the base is probably less than 100lbs, so call it ~900lbs for the mill alone.
Here is the mill going over the edge. Notice the table barely fits between the walls. We had to shoe horn it around the door post to get in inside, and had to pry the hand rail over about 2" to get it to the bottom. This mill has 4 lifting rings screwed into the base. You can see the chains going to the ones in the rear of the mill. The red strap is there to add some control as the mill goes over the edge - I was worried about it making an abrupt tip and trying to flip. The chains are connected to a chain fall that is attached to an anchor in the garage floor. We used an engine hoist to boost it onto the top of the ramps, and drug it through the door using a come-along. Once we had the mill through the door, we passed the hoist around it, and down into the basement.
Shot at the same moment in time from below. You can see it is teetering right as it goes over. The yellow straps are connected to a come-along anchored to the basement floor. We kept the mill under a lot of tension from both ends while it went over to prevent any wild movement. I was able to easily rock the mill back a few inches at this point to release the small safety strap in the first pic.
Here is the mill at the bottom of the ramp. We had moved the crane in We had about 2" of chain left on the chain fall. Notice the bottom of the ramp is in resting on two 4x4's to raise it up, and the mill itself is on 2x4 skis. You can also see the really poor condition of my stairs, the ramps completely bypasses them and rests at three points, the garage floor, the top most riser which is reinforced with 4x4 posts, and the floor of the basement itself. There is a strap hinge between the upper and lower portions of each ramp to keep the lower ramp from sliding down, and the upper ramp is lag screwed into the floor joist.
Total time from backing the trailer into the garage to mill sitting on the floor was about 1 1/2 hours. We took it very slow, I spotted and gave instructions to the boys, as well as operated the prybar to shift it around.
Many thanks to my son Akiva and his friend Kenneth who have to come back tomorrow and move the surface plate and lathe stand legs that are made from concrete blocks
Got my son and his buddy to come over and help move the shop from a 1st floor bedroom into the basement. We moved 2 free standing workbenches, my Sieg SC8 lathe and the bench top for it (made from 4x4 and granite), plus most of the junk. Then we took my new PM450G mill down.
Here are some highlights. Will write up a full post on it later since folks are always asking about moving machines. The mill with base weighs 975lbs (442Kg), the base is probably less than 100lbs, so call it ~900lbs for the mill alone.
Here is the mill going over the edge. Notice the table barely fits between the walls. We had to shoe horn it around the door post to get in inside, and had to pry the hand rail over about 2" to get it to the bottom. This mill has 4 lifting rings screwed into the base. You can see the chains going to the ones in the rear of the mill. The red strap is there to add some control as the mill goes over the edge - I was worried about it making an abrupt tip and trying to flip. The chains are connected to a chain fall that is attached to an anchor in the garage floor. We used an engine hoist to boost it onto the top of the ramps, and drug it through the door using a come-along. Once we had the mill through the door, we passed the hoist around it, and down into the basement.
Shot at the same moment in time from below. You can see it is teetering right as it goes over. The yellow straps are connected to a come-along anchored to the basement floor. We kept the mill under a lot of tension from both ends while it went over to prevent any wild movement. I was able to easily rock the mill back a few inches at this point to release the small safety strap in the first pic.
Here is the mill at the bottom of the ramp. We had moved the crane in We had about 2" of chain left on the chain fall. Notice the bottom of the ramp is in resting on two 4x4's to raise it up, and the mill itself is on 2x4 skis. You can also see the really poor condition of my stairs, the ramps completely bypasses them and rests at three points, the garage floor, the top most riser which is reinforced with 4x4 posts, and the floor of the basement itself. There is a strap hinge between the upper and lower portions of each ramp to keep the lower ramp from sliding down, and the upper ramp is lag screwed into the floor joist.
Total time from backing the trailer into the garage to mill sitting on the floor was about 1 1/2 hours. We took it very slow, I spotted and gave instructions to the boys, as well as operated the prybar to shift it around.
Many thanks to my son Akiva and his friend Kenneth who have to come back tomorrow and move the surface plate and lathe stand legs that are made from concrete blocks
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
Here is my demo part, something I can show to try and drum up some sales, 6x6x1, $28 for the chunk, 6061. The island is .250 tall, the pocket is .210 deep. The 6 holes are just under 3/8, big hole is 1-1/16th. I crashed the pocket, the end mill loaded up while I was vacuuming chips up on the mill, I heard it but couldn't stop it in time. It didn't hurt anything other than a broken end mill, 1/4". The main island machining and surface was done with a YG-1 3fl powdered metal tool, it doesn't leave a very nice floor finish, well not as nice as a standard sharp hss 2 flute or 4 flute, but it's fast and that's what I needed at the moment. Something I noticed with it is you can feel the step over with that end mill, where as in the pocket I did you can't feel anything, it cut like that right outta the box, it's labeled as a finisher... note the sidewalls of the block and island are very nice. The engraving... I had the tool buried at the start and now have some tedious deburring to do, I ran another pass through I to try and knock em off an it helped. I used wd-40 for lube, I made a few thou adjustment after I stopped and check it, the lines came out WAY nicer after raising the tool maybe 3 thou.
The bottom is the tool path in BobCAD-CAM, the orange color is the profile finish pass around the island. I had to draw the main rectangle oversize to get it to behave the way I wanted, not incredibly pleased about having to do that, not sure if other softwares are like that too or what, but some veteran users helped me out to learn that trick.
My shop is called DRINK Machine in case your wondering what that is, it's a play on names
The bottom is the tool path in BobCAD-CAM, the orange color is the profile finish pass around the island. I had to draw the main rectangle oversize to get it to behave the way I wanted, not incredibly pleased about having to do that, not sure if other softwares are like that too or what, but some veteran users helped me out to learn that trick.
My shop is called DRINK Machine in case your wondering what that is, it's a play on names
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
I would like to report that I'm 2 for 2 by showing that part to a couple local auto custom shops, the one is is ready to go over some designs, and is excited that I came in. I hope my own journey will help realize the potential your capable of if you apply your energy to this path. I know I know hobby forum, but how many of you members bought a mill or lathe thinking that you could make some money with it, hell maybe have it pay for itself over the next few years.... I recommend to everyone thinking about doing a conversion to do it, some of the best experience was having all those parts where nothing fit, or worked together, I had to adapt every part.
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