2014 POTD Thread Archive

[Mark_f]

That is really cool and that is one fine tail stock. Thanks for posting it. I'm pleased to have inspired something.

Mark Frazier

I took some inspiration from Mark F's indexer/tailstock project and built a tail stock for myself. I used the plans Mark posted here as a guide but changed dimensions to suit my crude home made indexer and Vertex super spacer.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/26844-tail-stock-for-the-indexer?highlight=tailstock

I used scrap material including some railway track brackets I got from a local scrap metal dealer. Here are a few pics.

 

[bvd1940]

Got POED at my 14x40 pm lathe motor mount and took out the light weight cast iron mount and build one out of 3/4" MS PL and now the motor is quiet and stable.
It is also a lot easier to pull and replace the motor now.:victory:

This all started when I was turning a fairly deep bore and found it to be badly tapered. I had to pull the motor to get at the alignment screws to true up the spindle from the move to the new shop when I must have done something wrong in moving and knocked it cadywawmpus.:angry:
The lathe runs sooooo much quieter now its all worth it:thumbzup3:
Next up after I get the wife,s Nordictrack fixed I will be tearing my shaper apart to find a rattle:angry:
Oh well the beat goes on & on.)

 

[MozamPete]

While back home for a holiday and staying at my Mum's I took to putting up some shelves and tidying up her garage. One of the finds was an old rusty 3" Record G-clamp missing its foot. As it was of no use as it was, I decided to take it home to give it a new lease of life.

Machined up a new foot on the lathe and decided to have a play with electrolysis de-rusting which turned out much better than I expected - wish I had taken a proper 'before' photo. A fresh coat of paint and it's good for another 50 years.

C-clamp as found - sorry didn't take a proper photo this is just a crop out of the corner of another photo.


After electrolysis de-rusting of the body (but before de-rusting of the screw for comparison)


After a coat of paint and with the new foot installed. I just blackened the screw with a rust inhibitor (phosphoric acid based I think).

 

[12bolts]

Thats a great job MozamPete! You could hang that on the shelf in a shop as brand new

Cheers Phil

 

[chuckorlando]

Dentist wanted a radius on one of these arms while we had the chair down for restore and retro fits. The funky thing that has all the tubes and drills and water picks, thats what this arm supports. We redo the whole deal.

 

[chevydyl]

made an orifice for a pilot burner for a line heater, natural gas. the original was 3/4 stainless hex, also have em in brass, needed a spare at work so I took some measurements. didn't have 3/4 hex so I made it out of 7/8. the nozzle end is 1/2-13 and the other end I tapped for 1/4 pipe. little over 2" OAL.
heres the original I seen it before, ill say it too, I love turnin brass haha

 

[Hamstn]

Been wanting a surface plate for some time and when I found a 24 x 36 shipped for $195 I pulled the trigger. The stand for it was more then the rock and looked light duty I decided to build my own. Had a 24ft stick of 2 x 2 left over from a recent project any way.

 

[chuckorlando]

Is that the only style tool holder you have? If not how do you like the diamond over the other style?

made an orifice for a pilot burner for a line heater, natural gas. the original was 3/4 stainless hex, also have em in brass, needed a spare at work so I took some measurements. didn't have 3/4 hex so I made it out of 7/8. the nozzle end is 1/2-13 and the other end I tapped for 1/4 pipe. little over 2" OAL.
heres the original I seen it before, ill say it too, I love turnin brass haha
View attachment 88896
View attachment 88897
View attachment 88898
View attachment 88900

 

[chevydyl]

I also have the ccmt holder and w triangle one, I normally use the ccmt holder. Although the one in the picture has a little better reach than the ccmt, right now I only have the aluminum insert for the diamond. I was able to cut a small relief for the tapped hole with the diamond holder where even my smallest ccmt boring bar wouldn't touch it cause the angles were too small for the insert. My holders are the cheap set from shars, the inserts they sell are awesome. There is no reason to buy kennametal or Sandvik, or any other $$$ which I have more than a few of both, in some cases I've had the shars inserts outlast the name brand twice as long. I'm still a sucker though and will search ebay to buy the name brands.. lol

 

[melsdad]

Xman charl, just a little criticism, your mig welds look a little cold, now I doubt they will ever break with the TV on there, I'm just saying maybe turn the heat up a little so your pushing the weld into the base metal. Is that a crank I see on there to raise and lower? That's pretty cool

I was thinking the same thing. Not sure what type of machine you are running but lower end machines have there limitations...I own one and try to keep to those standards. It may help to do a pre-heat on the thicker material before welding. I would personally grind that out re weld it.