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[How do I?] wire forward-reverse switch

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DaveD

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#31
Here is a link to the motor wiring schematic. If the link doesn't work just do a search for lesson motor 110087.
The schematic shows how to wire it for cc or ccw rotation on both 120 and 240.

http://www.leeson.com/CnxDocRequest/PublishedPDF/grf_swd-0130015736_00500303_402810276_355.pdf

I'm sure with a few more searches you can find how to wire the switch. I know on a 120 motor you have to bring two pairs of motor wires out of the motor to the reversing switch and the reversing switch just swaps the wires in a x fashion to rotate in the other direction.

Basically all you are doing is reversing the start winding so it kicks the motor in the opposite direction.
 
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tjb

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#32
Guys,

It looks like I'll be out of commission probably until next week for two reasons:

1. It's wheat harvest season. I live in a farming community, and I'll be helping a friend combine wheat and bale straw.
2. My local friend who is familiar with FOR/REV switches can't get here until next Saturday.

Please don't think I'm ignoring anyone's helpful advice; just prioritizing out of necessity.

Regards,
Terry
 

Blackjackjacques

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#34
The motor diagram you provided is all you need. You may want to try connecting the conductors without a switch as a means of understanding what is going on.
Assuming you want to connect 240 V - use the "High Voltage" template on the right.

For CCW rotation:
Connect one leg of the 240 V (L1) line to P1 as shown
Short together motor leads T2, T8, T3 and do not connect to anything.
Short together motor leads T4, T5 and connect to the other end of your 240 V (L2)

For CW rotation: (Follow footnote on bottom of plate instructing you to interchange T5 & T8)
Connect one leg of the 240 V (L1) line to P1 as shown (no change from CCW operation)
Short together motor leads T2, T5, and T3 and do not connect to anything
Short together motor leads T4, T8 and connect to the other end of your 240 V (L2)

All the switch does is make the above connections for you. Once you are comfortable the above works, then you should be able to figure out the switch connections. Good luck
 

Calixt0

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#35
after reading all of this I'm so confused.. I understand how to do it without the switch perfectly but adding the switch has me baffled? a drawing of what wires go where would be tremendously helpful for me
 

markba633csi

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#36
Calixt0: Are you needing some help with a wiring issue? Can you post pics of your motor and switch?
Mark S.
 

markba633csi

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#38
OK good place to start- do you want to run it on 115 or 230 volts? 230 is recommended, switch will last longer. Motor too.
Mark S.
 

Calixt0

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#39
I can run either.. but for easy i was planning on 115 but 230 is readily available as well!
 

markba633csi

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#40
You don't really HAVE to use a (overpriced) drum switch. You could use two common toggle switches, one for on/off, one for forward/reverse. You could go either way.
You got any switches layin' around?- your cost could be zero :big grin: if you're concerned about your budget that is
Mark
 

Calixt0

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#41
I might to start out with doing 2 toggle switches.. but eventually want the ease of a drum switch.. lots of em on amazon for about $15... so may just jump and do it that way as well?
 

markba633csi

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#42
That's pretty reasonable, new ones are much more. Most are made by Furnas. There are two basic internal contact styles, I don't know the Furnas part numbers offhand, the more common one will open both sides of the power when in the "off" position, the other one will only open one side. If that matters to you. Both will give forward and reverse with center off.
I guess show me the one you're looking at and I can (hopefully) tell you which type it is.
Mark S.
 

markba633csi

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#43
Type of drum switch that opens both sides of the power I call the "twin hockey stick" type.
The other one I call the "chopsticks" type.
The hockey stick one is more popular and more common. I think I have a picture here somewhere...let me look
Mark
 

Calixt0

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#46
yep those are them. not sure what the wire contacts look like inside tho.. I know one the second one it mentions having 12 contacts but that just blows me away?
 

markba633csi

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#47
The third one down is the one you want, the pictures I posted may have incorrect names-
Looks like RS-1 is actually the hockey stick type. Most expensive one, of course. You could get a used one on ebay maybe.
Not sure about the 3 other ones you linked to, you'd have to get the internal spec for them
Also looks like Furnas isn't in business anymore, but someone else is making them.
Mark
ps looks like the second one down could be made to work for 220v. Kind of small handle tho. Cheaper. Harder to mount. Not useable for 115v connection.
pss I believe all the Excell branded ones are made in China- not sure about the quality on those.
 
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markba633csi

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#49
I looked on Epay and didn't see any decent used ones for less than a new one. It seems people pay stupid expensive prices for "vintage" units. To me it's just a dumb ol' switch. So I'd get a nice shiny new one.
Mark
 

Calixt0

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#50
I looked on Epay and didn't see any decent used ones for less than a new one. It seems people pay stupid expensive prices for "vintage" units. To me it's just a dumb ol' switch. So I'd get a nice shiny new one.
Mark
agreed.. I can understand if you're wanting a factory refurb.. but mine is just going for usability..
 

markba633csi

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#51
50 bucks is kinda steep but it will last for years especially on 230v
M
ps the switch I was calling "chopstick" is actually meant for 3-phase. It can be used for single phase but it's not optimal.
 
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hman

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#52
yep those are them. not sure what the wire contacts look like inside tho.. I know one the second one it mentions having 12 contacts but that just blows me away?
Here's a photo of the innards of a "hockey stick" type switch, with the handle in one of the run positions. Note the stud-and-nut wire terminals. The terminals of a "chopsticks" type switch should be pretty similar.
kHPIM3179.jpg
 

Buffalo20

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#54
for the switch in the picture


handle
1. 2
3. 4
5. 6

with the red handle on the top, the terminals down the left hand side are 1, 3 and 5, on the right hand side are 2, 4 and 6.

the inlet power goes to #2 and #6, power to the motor goes to #1 and #5, the two wire listed on the motor, to switch direction, one of them goes to #3 and the other goes to #4, ground wires are hooked to the green screw on the bottom plate
 

markba633csi

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#55
Yes that's the 115 volt arrangement. 230 volt only takes 3 motor wires: For the 3 wire case, one end of the start leg can be tied
to the midpoint of the series connected run windings, the other end goes to pin 3 of the drum switch. You're "flipping" one end of the start leg from one power to the other
to reverse direction.
Mark
 

Calixt0

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#56
so for the above schematic.. on my motor for 220 volt
terminal 1 T2 and T3 and P1
terminal 2 Line 1
terminal 3 T5
terminal 4 T8
terminal 5 T4
terminal 6 line 2

and leave P2 just wire capped in the houseing?
 

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markba633csi

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#57
No:
P1 to Drum 1
P2 capped
T2 T3 T8 connected and capped
T5 disconnect from T4 and connect to Drum 3
T4 to Drum 5
230 volt to Drum 2 and 6
Drum 4 no connect
If rotation backwards swap wires on Drum 1 and Drum 5

Mark S.
 

markba633csi

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#58
Calixt0: Can you post a better picture of your motor wiring label? The one above is a bit hard to see and I want to double check what I told you.
Mark
 

Calixt0

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#59
mark that makes no sense to me.. as I understand it that would be switching 5 and 4 not 5 and 8.. heres a new picture hope it works better
 

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markba633csi

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#60
You actually would be switching T5 only. I'll post a sketch for your enlightenment, give me an hour or two.
Mark
ps thanks for the pic-mucho better
 
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