[How do I?] wire forward-reverse switch

if you want directional control over the motor,
essentially you'll be alternately switching T5 & T8 to make contact with T4/line connection as well as the T2 and T3 pairing
P1 will get a line connection and can be switched if desired.
P2 is capped off
T2 and T3 are going to need a jumper wire extended to the switch to then be switched with T5 or T8 respectively at the switch connection

if you are not interested in forward and reverse, the problem can be handled differently
 
Okay, tell me how this sounds.

1. Leave Red OUT alone as the line connection going to P1.
2. Isolate T2 & T3, and let the Green OUT from my switch serve as the jumper wire.
3. Connect T8 to my White OUT.
4. Connect T5 to my Blue OUT.

That seems right IF the switch itself does the T5 or T8 to T2/T3. I checked the switch earlier with an ohm meter but couldn't make heads or tails from the readings. I think I have a better understanding now, so I'll check again.

Am I on the right track?

Regards,
Terry
 
TJ,
A close up photo of the motor wiring diagram would help. I can't make out the designators for the motor wiring diagram. A picture of the actual terminals for the motor will be necessary as well (one that is possible to see the stamped terminal ID's). The humming sound you heard was due to incorrect wiring.
For the switch, there should be a wiring diagram on it somewhere. If not, you'll need a multi-meter to see what terminal are connected in each switch position.
By your original description, the 3 lead in wires to your switch were the 2 hot leads and a ground fault wire (not ground wire, 220v doesn't require a ground wire). On your drawing, the 2 lead in wires to the switch will be connected to the terminals labeled A & B. Before you connect power to the switch, place it in the FORWARD or REVERSE position and check for continuity between the A terminal and the 4 numbered terminals as well as between B and the 4 numbered terminals.
Next, do the same with the switch position in the other position and post what you find here.
Here's an example of how the switch will end up being wired.

dewhurstreverseswitch.jpg
As you can see, you will need a five wire cable between the switch and the motor. A four wire cable could be used, but you won 't have a ground fault wire and could receive a shock if there's a short somewhere.
 
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Terry, I can't really make out the wire designation on your photo and so I am hesitant to give any advice. Mike is the motor expert here.

The motor appears to be a 120/240 volt capacitor start motor. For 120 volt operation, the run windings are connected in parallel and for 240 volt operation, they are connected in series. The start winding runs on 120 volts so it is connected across the line if running on 120 volts and to the center tap of the two run windings when running on 240 volts. The two leads described on the nameplate for reversing direction (looks like T5 and T8) need to be brought out to the switch. There will be internal jumpers which need to be disconnected.

As to the switch, it is hard to tell from afar but since Mike already has experience with that switch, he will be able to guide you through the connections. jpigg's picture is a good graphic illustration as to how a reversing switch works. They are, for the most part, 3 pole 3 position switches and although their construction varies, they all operate pretty much the same.
 
as a point of information...
to test continuity of the switch:
With the switch in the center position,
set your meter to Ohms (RX1)
put one lead on Terminal A, then test each other terminal and record your readings.
put on lead on Terminal B, then test to each of the other terminals and record the readings
Some (most) switches are center off- there should be no continuity between poles.
on your switch, the A & B terminals are the main poles. (but, other poles may be utilized to achieve the same function)

to test the functions of the switch:
switch the switch in either direction
put one meter lead on switch Terminal A and test to the other terminals , you may get continuity on terminals 4 and 1 or, on terminals 2 and 1, respectively in relation to direction chosen on the switch throw
put one meter lead on switch Terminal B and test to the other terminals, you may get continuity on terminals 2 and 3 or, on terminals 3 and 4 respectively in relation to switch position
 
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It looks like that Eagle switch may be a 2 pole dual throw
Mark S.
 
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Okay, guys - Mark, Mike, RJ, JPigg, and any others following this thread.

I've got good news and bad news. First the good: Everything you guys have said is absolutely excellent counsel. No doubt in my mind you really know your stuff. Thanks. Now for the bad: I ain't gotta clue what you're talking about! I'm pretty good with wiring cars and trucks from scratch, and tolerable on AC both single- and 3-phase. But I've never seen the inside of a Forward/Reverse switch (until now), and it seems to me that in spite of your helpful info, I may be headed for trouble without someone close by that's actually done this before. In theory, I get it. I did all the tests with a multi-meter, and I can follow the voltage flow from each input leg into and across each terminal. But I don't have a warm fuzzy coming out of that switch into the motor. Last thing I want to do is 'guess' it's right, then throw the switch and find out otherwise. I did figure out, however, how to wire the switch to move in the forward direction, regardless of whether I toggle it 'FOR' or 'REV'. So at least I'm up and running. I have a friend that's pretty knowledgeable about wiring heavy machinery, but I can't connect with him for another week or two. When I do, I'll show him your posts before we go down to the shop. Better yet, I'll see if I can get him to join hobby-machinist and read them for himself. He'd be a GREAT resource for all of us.

Thanks very much for the time and energy that went into all of your thoughtful answers. I'll add posts as I learn more.

Terry

P.S.: A couple of you said you had a hard time reading the wiring diagram on the motor's spec plate. Here's an enlargement.
speccloseup.JPG
 
I'm glad that you were able to make the motor run.
I'm sorry that I couldn't give better directions, but i respect your ability to recognize that you have reached a point where you need more direction

Good luck :)
 
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Apology not necessary, Mike! You gave great instructions (as did the others). I'm certain that by following your directions it would work perfectly. The challenge is being 'certain' that I understand it correctly. I'm not averse to taking a risk, but as long as I'm operational, another week or two won't kill me so that someone with experience in that kind of wiring can be on hand to protect me from myself. Strikes me as a whole lot better (and cheaper) option than burning up a brand new motor.

Regards,
Terry
 
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