Well that didn't go well.

This is a dilemma, you can't just leave it like that , I like your idea of putting a border ( "T" shape maybe), it seems to be your best option.
 
I doubt that was tear-out, on end grain like that. Looks like the bit grabbed, dug in and deflected the jig, it may not seem possible but it is. I never liked sled arrangements for final dimensioning, only for roughing out. I always use a straight fence clamped tight to the work and a sharp top bearing bit, to do the final pass. Scoring the cut line with a razor first eliminates any tear-out.
To fix I see two options:
1. Remake the entire piece. Though you might consider making it as a frame instead of a solid panel, it would also give more "rustic" appearance.
2. Rout out the center, damaged, section and inlay a piece of the same wood.
 
Eddyde said:
I doubt that was tear-out, on end grain like that. Looks like the bit grabbed, dug in and deflected the jig, it may not seem possible but it is. I never liked sled arrangements for final dimensioning, only for roughing out. I always use a straight fence clamped tight to the work and a sharp top bearing bit, to do the final pass. Scoring the cut line with a razor first eliminates any tear-out.
To fix I see two options:
1. Remake the entire piece. Though you might consider making it as a frame instead of a solid panel, it would also give more "rustic" appearance.
2. Rout out the center, damaged, section and inlay a piece of the same wood.
Click to expand...
yea, it could be, I would have felt it, and did not, but the sled could have dampened the feel. A sled was necessary to get down to the depth. This was a brand new bit.

This was un-steamed Walnut (way nicer coloring than steamed ie lumber yard bought), I am out of wood, Any wood I get would have to acclimate after coming down to final humidity. The guys I buy from all air dry. I would also have to find out if there are any bugs in the wood, so it would take longer than I have. Originally I wanted to do a frame and panel like the sides, but when she saw the sides, she said no to the frame which suited me fine, since the panel was going to be odd holding the weight of heavy food platers on a thin ledge to hold the panel and tile.
 
rogerl said:
What if you cut the opening a little larger and put in an insert frame with a different type of wood like maple or cherry to create a border? What is the project? The inserts look to be cushions? Is it a bench?

Roger L
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Exact thought I also had!
 
You could straighten the oops and use a silicon modified grout around the tile, and adding some type of adhesive (contact cement?) before the grout. Mike
 
That’s really unfortunate. Maybe you can change the game. Can you get larger tiles and cut them down to a little larger than you have now? Could larger tiles have a rabbet on the bottom that sits in the existing cutout - would raise the tile up slightly, I realize. Not sure how walnut and rustic fit together as an aesthetic, but the customer is paying the bill. The filler frame would seem to be the best option to create a crisp line. Larger tile in a larger hole risks a similar issue on the next cutout. The tile overlay eliminates the visible line and lets the wood move around without issues.
 
Eddyde said:
I doubt that was tear-out, on end grain like that.
Click to expand...
Agree. Removing the tile and looking at the sidewall will likely show it extends full depth, which would not be the case with tear out.
 
FOMOGO said:
You could straighten the oops and use a silicon modified grout around the tile, and adding some type of adhesive (contact cement?) before the grout. Mike
Click to expand...
This might be the ticket, They make caulk to match grout colors, the "Charcoal" looks like it might be a good match for those tiles. A carefully done, taped caulk joint would blend in and go away. If the client says anything about it simply say "Technical requirement".
 
Well, lets clear this up. The customer is my son and daughter in law. He couldn't care, but she's an artist, and she wants what she wants. The tearout is almost all the way to the bottom. I'll still refer to it as tearout, even though I agree with you both. I am not sure why I didn't feel or hear it. But hearing I can understand, I am losing my hearing. I had sound protection on, so I might not have heard. But I really should have felt it. How is still a mystery, since I left the edges undone until the end so I would not have to hog off a lot. I also climb cut as much as possible to avoid tearout or deep dives. Its not a problem when you have a frame to route in. I was unable to use my dishing bit, which I use to plane normally because the bit was too high and my bearing missed the frame, so I used one of the new short depth of cut mortising bits with a guide bearing. It was only 3/4 diameter. It did a nice job otherwise. I am probably going back to it tomorrow.

I don't think I can do grout, since it is a real wood top. I think it needs to be flexible. I'll see if they have some charcoal silicone.. maybe one of the manufacturers makes it.

Anyway today was a good break from ww, to finish the light for the router. I just need to route the wires, probably glue them to the battery holder.
It's not necessarily for the sled, As we get older, it's much harder to see where my bit and the wood are. My son printed a light, but it was from the motor pointing down, and it just glared. Mine seems to work quite well. Also his used a button cell, and it just didn't last long (even though it was CR 2032 or something like that).
 
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