Upgrade - Shop Air - Quality 60-80gal compressors?

Many pressure switches have unloader built in.

Add check valve to tank and done.

The TSC unit does not have a mag starter, anything over 2 hp should have this.

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Another thing to keep in mind when deciding on a compressor and the pressure it produces.

The ratings are based on the pressure and flow at the tank outlet. You will loose pressure and volume the longer the run. So if you have to have 90psi with 10cfm at a point that is 50-100 feet down the line you should consider a compressor that reaches 175psi at the tank. I know that someone will indicate that there shop is not that big, but keep in mind that is the length of stationary line from the tank to the point you connect an air hose and then you have the air hose length that is coiled up on the ground to deal with.

Part of the compressor system is the feed lines, oversizing the stationary lines that feed the various outlets.
 
This is what I did for my very basic Sanborn 30 gallon air compressor. I was tired of getting water splatters in my lacquer finishes but I certainly do not have the money for a true air drier.
It works very well and has eliminated my water issues. It cost me $30.
 

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7milesup said:
This is what I did for my very basic Sanborn 30 gallon air compressor. I was tired of getting water splatters in my lacquer finishes but I certainly do not have the money for a true air drier.
It works very well and has eliminated my water issues. It cost me $30.
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Excellent!

Can you post more pictures of how you plumbed it in? I assume that is post-compressor, pre-tank?
 
FlyFishn said:
Excellent!

Can you post more pictures of how you plumbed it in? I assume that is post-compressor, pre-tank?
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Yep, I will. I need to go back out to the shop and get some more pics.
 
Here are some more pictures. The line of pressurized air comes out of the compressor and is "Y"'d as it enters the top of the condenser unit. The top of the condenser is cooled by both the compressor and motor fans. After the compressor has been running for a while the top coil or so of the condenser is hot but quickly cools down. By the third coil it is almost ambient temperature. The cooled air exits at the bottom where it hits a "T". The bottom of the T goes to a drip leg and the top line goes to the tank. There is a valve at the bottom of drip leg of course.
Since this is an AC coil, the condenser is rated for high pressure.
As I mention before, I made one exactly like mine for my friend. His looks a lot better than mine. I made an angle iron frame with expanded metal as a guard and I used copper pipe instead of tubing. Mine was more a proof of concept that worked better than my expectations.
 

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7milesup said:
Here are some more pictures. The line of pressurized air comes out of the compressor and is "Y"'d as it enters the top of the condenser unit. The top of the condenser is cooled by both the compressor and motor fans. After the compressor has been running for a while the top coil or so of the condenser is hot but quickly cools down. By the third coil it is almost ambient temperature. The cooled air exits at the bottom where it hits a "T". The bottom of the T goes to a drip leg and the top line goes to the tank. There is a valve at the bottom of drip leg of course.
Since this is an AC coil, the condenser is rated for high pressure.
As I mention before, I made one exactly like mine for my friend. His looks a lot better than mine. I made an angle iron frame with expanded metal as a guard and I used copper pipe instead of tubing. Mine was more a proof of concept that worked better than my expectations.
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Thanks for the detail. That is awesome. With the copper you don't have to worry about it getting wet and sitting wet then rusting through.

Is there ever any water in the main compressor tank? I assume you check it every so often. I would imagine the radiator gets the vast majority of the water out but perhaps not all?
 
True, there is still a small amount of water in the main tank. I drained both yesterday actually (I do that quite often) and got quite a bit out of the drain leg (maybe an ounce) but just a few drops out of the main tank. Of course it is now winter up here so the air is dryer.
If I was going to do it over again I would make my drip leg a little longer maybe. But, that is a trade off too, because you want the line going to the tank to be long enough to have the water run back down into the drip leg.
Oh, and if I was doing it over, I would make my piping look better. LOL.
 
The auto drain on my air compressor, blows for 4 seconds every hour, 24/7/365. The air then goes through 2 stage desiccant filter.
 
Buffalo21 said:
The auto drain on my air compressor, blows for 4 seconds every hour, 24/7/365. The air then goes through 2 stage desiccant filter.
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How do you keep the desiccant dry? Or, rather, how do you dry it out and recondition it?
 
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