Tool post drilling in a small lathe

verbotenwhisky said:
Could someone explain the advantage?
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After trying the Edge Tech device, I don't see it as being worth it. It has a nice method of centering using the pin provided. But it requires the chuck to be empty to use. A tailstock chuck is sturdier, just as fast to change tooling in and the tool post is free to turn or part off as required.
Power feeding the tool post chuck?? Don't see any advantage. Large holes only require a pilot hole the width of the chisel point on the final drill. If you feed constantly making a long chip there is no need to retract until finished. Then slide the tailstock back. Depth, cheap and easy caliper "DRO."
 
Larry$ said:
After trying the Edge Tech device, I don't see it as being worth it. It has a nice method of centering using the pin provided. But it requires the chuck to be empty to use. A tailstock chuck is sturdier, just as fast to change tooling in and the tool post is free to turn or part off as required.
Power feeding the tool post chuck?? Don't see any advantage. Large holes only require a pilot hole the width of the chisel point on the final drill. If you feed constantly making a long chip there is no need to retract until finished. Then slide the tailstock back. Depth, cheap and easy caliper "DRO."
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Power feeding is easier and more consistent on the chip load. I can't imagine why anyone would object to easier work and longer lasting drills. It's a quick change tool post so switching to turning or parting is a few seconds away. The morse tapers allow me to pop the tapers out in a couple seconds.

I have a cheap dro on my tailstock but my tailstock has 60mm of travel. My carriage has tons of travel. The carriage is more rigid than my tailstock.

I'm trying to see a downside but its not coming to me.
 
How do you re-center & axially align the drill on the tool post each time? I've got about 4" of quill travel on a tailstock that locks tightly to the bed always aligned! No fooling around, pop in the keyless chuck, change tooling really quickly. Lever on the side of the tailstock releases it so it can be easily slid for and aft. Lathe weighs about 3200#, no rigidity problems that I've noticed.
 
Larry$ said:
How do you re-center & axially align the drill on the tool post each time? I've got about 4" of quill travel on a tailstock that locks tightly to the bed always aligned! No fooling around, pop in the keyless chuck, change tooling really quickly. Lever on the side of the tailstock releases it so it can be easily slid for and aft. Lathe weighs about 3200#, no rigidity problems that I've noticed.
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123 block against the chuck to align the tool post is good enough. Eyeball center with a center drill and then look for sideways pressure when you start spot drilling. The slop in the cross slide nut seems to make it slightly self aligning which is a nice accidental feature.
 
verbotenwhisky said:
Okay guys, I am certain I am missing something here so an education is in order. I looked at one of the tool post chucks from edge technologies and thought, hum why would I use that when I have a tail stock to drill with? Could someone explain the advantage?
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I also can not understand why anyone would use the tool post to drill. Locking down the tailstock is, as far as I am concerned the only way to go. I would think if you are experiencing chatter a worn bit or the tailstock not being dialed in. If you are drilling off the carriage you are also must take into consideration the play in the cross feeds ( both X and Y ) not to mention the dialing in of the tool holder with the chuck mounted.
 
Charles scozzari said:
I also can not understand why anyone would use the tool post to drill. Locking down the tailstock is, as far as I am concerned the only way to go. I would think if you are experiencing chatter a worn bit or the tailstock not being dialed in. If you are drilling off the carriage you are also must take into consideration the play in the cross feeds ( both X and Y ) not to mention the dialing in of the tool holder with the chuck mounted.
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It's already been explained. I can't imagine what would be wrong with it, especially on a job requiring a lot of drilling of different sized holes.

Once the tool holder is squared up in less than 10 seconds, you just have to center it by eye and the slop in the cross slide screw will help you center it up the rest of the way. I tend to leave my tool post squared up most of the time anyway.

The hole I drilled in the video came out 0.001" over. Can't fault the quality of the work.
 
Batmanacw said:
It's already been explained. I can't imagine what would be wrong with it, especially on a job requiring a lot of drilling of different sized holes.

Once the tool holder is squared up in less than 10 seconds, you just have to center it by eye and the slop in the cross slide screw will help you center it up the rest of the way. I tend to leave my tool post squared up most of the time anyway.

The hole I drilled in the video came out 0.001" over. Can't fault the quality of the work.
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I guess it just comes down to what you feel most comfortable with.
 
I drill most of my holes (CNC) using a drill in the tool post. For steel and aluminum, I use 0.02 mm/rev (0.001"/rev) to keep the tool pressure low. To much tool pressure will lift/bend the lightweight carriage from my mini lathe but also from my bigger (290 kg) lathe with a tapered hole as result. Lower tool pressure also puts less stress on the half nuts so they last longer.
 
Huub Buis said:
I drill most of my holes (CNC) using a drill in the tool post. For steel and aluminum, I use 0.02 mm/rev (0.001"/rev) to keep the tool pressure low. To much tool pressure will lift/bend the lightweight carriage from my mini lathe but also from my bigger (290 kg) lathe with a tapered hole as result. Lower tool pressure also puts less stress on the half nuts so they last longer.
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I like the nicer surface finish off a low feed rate.
 
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