Tool post drilling in a small lathe

Okay guys, I am certain I am missing something here so an education is in order. I looked at one of the tool post chucks from edge technologies and thought, hum why would I use that when I have a tail stock to drill with? Could someone explain the advantage?
Power feed......dro read out of the depth as you drill if you have one.

I'd much rather have the speed of quick change of the mt2 set up I have over the drill chuck on the tool post.
 
@ Batmanacw,

Might I ask what your experience with tailstock drilling had been on your lathe? The reason I ask is that I also have a 1030V, and I get a ton of chatter anytime I try to drill anything 1/2" or larger. The tail stock just doesn't seem to be rigid enough on my machine. Everything is locked down (except of course the quill). The chatter is so bad at times it'll vibrate the tailstock locking lever loose. Asking to see if this is something that is common to the 1022/1030 machines, or if I'm just lucky.

Does that 250-105 holder seem to be sufficiently rigid, even with the compound slide installed? Compound on mine was a hot mess. I ended up re-engineering/overhauling mine. Installed thrust bearings, needle bearing for the leadscrew, remade the front plate, cut a new Acme 7/16-20 lead screw, new leadscrew nut from 932 bronze, and trued up the dovetails & gibs. Now it moves smoothly without the gibs needing to be overly loose. Gained a bit of additional travel as well.

Curious if you're trying Gotteswinter's cross-feed drilling technique due to similar experiences with chatter, or another unrelated reason? Certainly a good solution to the limited quill travel in the tailstock. Edit: You answered in the post above while I was typing.

Really like your approach with the multiple MT2 holders. Well done sir.

Dave
WA
 
Power feed......dro read out of the depth as you drill if you have one.

I'd much rather have the speed of quick change of the mt2 set up I have over the drill chuck on the tool post.
Okay, I can see the power feed argument. I have a single piece digital DRO on my tail stock. I think I'd rather use the tail stock.
 
@ Batmanacw,

Might I ask what your experience with tailstock drilling had been on your lathe? The reason I ask is that I also have a 1030V, and I get a ton of chatter anytime I try to drill anything 1/2" or larger. The tail stock just doesn't seem to be rigid enough on my machine. Everything is locked down (except of course the quill). The chatter is so bad at times it'll vibrate the tailstock locking lever loose. Asking to see if this is something that is common to the 1022/1030 machines, or if I'm just lucky.

Does that 250-105 holder seem to be sufficiently rigid, even with the compound slide installed? Compound on mine was a hot mess. I ended up re-engineering/overhauling mine. Installed thrust bearings, needle bearing for the leadscrew, remade the front plate, cut a new Acme 7/16-20 lead screw, new leadscrew nut from 932 bronze, and trued up the dovetails & gibs. Now it moves smoothly without the gibs needing to be overly loose. Gained a bit of additional travel as well.

Curious if you're trying Gotteswinter's cross-feed drilling technique due to similar experiences with chatter, or another unrelated reason? Certainly a good solution to the limited quill travel in the tailstock. Edit: You answered in the post above while I was typing.

Really like your approach with the multiple MT2 holders. Well done sir.

Dave
WA
Try 2 things, 1) drill a pilot hole of a 1/4" and 2) reduce your RPM. I find I have issues if I am rotating to fast on the larger drill sizes and I automatically drill a 1/4" pilot when I plan to exceed 1/2 or 5/8" (dependent upon material).
 
@verbotenwhisky,

Appreciate the suggestions. I always do a pilot hole when drilling over 3/8", but perhaps I'm stepping up too close to the final drill size. I'll try the 1/4" dimension next time. Will also try even slower speeds. I've tried a range of speeds without seeing any significant reduction in chatter, but I'll try even slower yet, to see if it improves. I've seen YT videos of others drilling pretty big holes with the PM1022 or 1030's and they don't seem to have the issues I am, so likely user error/inexperience. Thanks again.
 
@verbotenwhisky,

Appreciate the suggestions. I always do a pilot hole when drilling over 3/8", but perhaps I'm stepping up too close to the final drill size. I'll try the 1/4" dimension next time. Will also try even slower speeds. I've tried a range of speeds without seeing any significant reduction in chatter, but I'll try even slower yet, to see if it improves. I've seen YT videos of others drilling pretty big holes with the PM1022 or 1030's and they don't seem to have the issues I am, so likely user error/inexperience. Thanks again.
Something else that has caused me issues in the past (truth in advertising I have a PM1236) is when the tail stock is slightly off center. I tried the razor blade method of alignment and it works but I found that using an alignment bar it is more precise. I generally slow to around 2 or 300 RPM. Keep in mind I am spitballing based upon personal experience, results may vary.

Also, you might take a look at Blondiehacks Video library on YT, if you have not already, she runs a PM1022 and has some very good content on it.
 
@verbotenwhisky,

Appreciate the suggestions. I always do a pilot hole when drilling over 3/8", but perhaps I'm stepping up too close to the final drill size. I'll try the 1/4" dimension next time. Will also try even slower speeds. I've tried a range of speeds without seeing any significant reduction in chatter, but I'll try even slower yet, to see if it improves. I've seen YT videos of others drilling pretty big holes with the PM1022 or 1030's and they don't seem to have the issues I am, so likely user error/inexperience. Thanks again.
Feed aggressively. Keep the drill taking a chip. The pilot hole should be just about the width of the web so the hole guides the web and it cannot move around. You can go straight from 1/4 to 3/4 in one step in mild steel.
 
Feed aggressively. Keep the drill taking a chip. The pilot hole should be just about the width of the web so the hole guides the web and it cannot move around. You can go straight from 1/4 to 3/4 in one step in mild steel.
I agree. But I also find it works better if I slow the revs down.
 
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