Tips For Dialing In And Indicating Tube With Steady Rest?

Cutting good threads inside that pipe under these conditions is a considerable challenge. Knowing what the part is intended for, and taking inspiration from motorcycle mufflers, could a sleeve be made that is threaded inside and then permanently fixed in the end of the pipe?
Im not sure. The way I designed the suppressor, the baffles are a tight fit with the ID of the tube so any insert would have to be the same size as the ID of the tube.
 
Do you have a 5C collet system for your lathe ? If so, I would use a step collet to support the part at the head stock. I have used them for thin walled pieces and they work very well and cause no distortion of the part. You purchase them in "blank form" and machine a pocket that exactly fits the OD of your part to be turned. Then dial in the other end in your steady rest. The link below shows an example of a step collet.

Ted

http://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/5cstc...5cstclco3hed&gclid=CNbN89j__84CFQqPfgodLqQHrg

Just thought of another option. Machine a set of pie jaws for your 3-jaw chuck to fit the tubing. These also will chuck the part without distortion.
 
Do you have a 5C collet system for your lathe ? If so, I would use a step collet to support the part at the head stock. I have used them for thin walled pieces and they work very well and cause no distortion of the part. You purchase them in "blank form" and machine a pocket that exactly fits the OD of your part to be turned. Then dial in the other end in your steady rest. The link below shows an example of a step collet.

Ted

http://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/5cstc...5cstclco3hed&gclid=CNbN89j__84CFQqPfgodLqQHrg

Just thought of another option. Machine a set of pie jaws for your 3-jaw chuck to fit the tubing. These also will chuck the part without distortion.
I don't have any kind of collet system for it yet. I was looking into an MT4 -> 5C adapter for it but I haven't found one yet. Those step collets look like a promising option though. I didn't know they made collet blanks either. That may come in very handie for a few future projects.
 
I don't have any kind of collet system for it yet. I was looking into an MT4 -> 5C adapter for it but I haven't found one yet. Those step collets look like a promising option though. I didn't know they made collet blanks either. That may come in very handie for a few future projects.

The nice thing with those step collets is that if you don't machine the pocket too deep, you can machine multiple steps into them and make one collet useful for several different diameter parts.

Ted
 
How thick would it need to be to not be any trouble?
I guess I'd want at least .109" but I don't see anything suitable in the Online Metals listing (besides, you've already got what you've got). Perhaps you could make a sleeve to fit over the OD to support the tube while threading (your steady rest would run on the OD of the sleeve). Then use a mandrel while turning the OD of the tube.
 
I guess I'd want at least .109" but I don't see anything suitable in the Online Metals listing (besides, you've already got what you've got). Perhaps you could make a sleeve to fit over the OD to support the tube while threading (your steady rest would run on the OD of the sleeve). Then use a mandrel while turning the OD of the tube.
Sounds like it would be worth a shot. Should I go with a very tight fit or should it be a slip fit and adhesive?
 
Sounds like it would be worth a shot. Should I go with a very tight fit or should it be a slip fit and adhesive?

very tight fit.
adhesive might stain the stainless.
once the inside of the pipe is threaded would the sleeve have to be removed?
 
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Very tight fit. If you heat the sleeve and freeze the pipe you will get an extra tight fit.
Adhesives are good but depend on how hot the part will get in use?
I assumed it would be removed after the thread was cut. Though in use it will probably get to 400F regularly, occasionally as high as 900F would be possible.
 
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