Swedish Mauser

Pevehouse

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
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Oct 27, 2023
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Hi all, going to look at a couple rifles tomorrow and was hoping to get some info and pointers from the gunsmiths in here. Just general info and things to look out for. One is a Swedish Mauser and the other is a Marlin 30/30 336 XLR. Thanks in advance
 
Swedish Mausers are pretty problem proof. I have several and never had any issues. The Sweeds are my favorite of the mil-surplus bolt actions.
 
Hi all, going to look at a couple rifles tomorrow and was hoping to get some info and pointers from the gunsmiths in here. Just general info and things to look out for. One is a Swedish Mauser and the other is a Marlin 30/30 336 XLR. Thanks in advance
Cool. He says it’s a Turkish action with a Swedish barrel 6.5 x 55. Does that sound right to you?
 
Cool. He says it’s a Turkish action with a Swedish barrel 6.5 x 55. Does that sound right to you?
He also has a Mosin M91/30 he wants to sell. Would that be a good collectible piece to pick up?
 
Cool. He says it’s a Turkish action with a Swedish barrel 6.5 x 55. Does that sound right to you?
Not at all. Turkish Mausers are a mix of large barrel breach thread sizes some where around the size of a Mauser 98, large ring Mausers. Swedish Mausers have a smaller breach barrel thread... Small ring Mauser 96. It is probably a cheap Turkish Mauser with a cheap Midway USA Mauser barrel in 6.5 x 55 on it.

Mauser 96 actions are top end for metallurgy. Turks used cheap crap steel. I would pass. It sounds like it has ZERO collector value.

I paid $79 for my Mosin Nagant back in the day... it never thrilled me that much. M91/30's are strong, known for usually being pretty accurate fool proof battle rifles. They were designed for cheap, fast mass production. The small ring Swedish 96 Mausers are fit and finished much nicer than the Mosin Nagants. Many collectors love Mosin Nagants, I am just not one of them. A Mosin collector will know all the different variations from different countries, different arsenals and associated values... I am not that guy.

P.S. I paid $50 for a pair (2) Turkish Mausers. That is $50 total for 2. I had considered rebarreling one of my Turks in 6.5x55 when Midway USA was selling large ring Mauser barrels, threaded and short chambered for $100. The Turks used slightly different barrel threads in their Mausers over the years. They even used the same diameter threads with slightly different TPI so you could screw 12 TPI barrel into a 11 TPI Turkish Mauser action with excessive force compromising the strength of the Turkish action.
 
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Colonel Whelen said only accurate rifles are interesting, and I tend to agree. Unless an old rifle has a history that you enjoy, or maybe a mechanism that you find fascinating and is worthy of hanging on your wall, it probably isn't worth investing in. A M1903 Springfield would be a great choice for sporterizing as a gunsmithing project, or maybe the right 1898 Mauser, but the values of those have exceeded their usefulness for that in recent decades. In original trim, any military type bolt action is not going to be much good for reliably hitting anything smaller than a cantaloupe at 100 yards. Rifles of that vintage tend to be chambered for enormous cartridges that straddle the timeline between black powder and smokeless nitrocellulose, so they're not enjoyable to shoot for more than a few rounds either- they pack a whallop. Whalloping is fun, but only when you can hit your target. With the ban on milsurp ammo imports, cheap .30-06, 8x57 Mauser, and 7.62x54R is all but gone, not to mention Swede, Carcano, and the rest. So unless you find a rifle particularly attractive, it's probably better to plan, save, and search for one that suits you better.
 
Sweeds are highly desirable. Low recoil and flat shooting-excellent deer round. I have yet to collect one yet.
I have FN manufactured Mexican contract Mauser, and a FN Chilean contract Mauser both in 7 MM
These are my favorites to shoot
Plenty of pow for up to elk size game
I have a Turkish in 8mm, it shoots well and looks good
I have a Spanish Gaurd converted 98’ rechambered to 7.62x51
It kicks like a mule, and jumps off the sandbags when discharged .

I also have a VZ24 Polish that is the best of the bunch . Hard hitting 8mm with a butter smooth action

I got my 91/30 years ago. It shoots great. Looks good after restoration .

I’m also looking for a 95 Mauser too
 
In my opinion sporterizing a 1903 Springfield is a great way to make a $200 rifle out of a $1000 rifle.

I have a 1917 , P17, Enfield (30-06) with a hunting stock on it. Luckily it still has the sight ears on it and is otherwise untouched. I have been looking for an authentic 1917 stock which will double (or triple) its value.
 
There are collectors and that's ok. That's not me. Anything in my gunsafe gets range time. A Swedish K98 would be welcomed here. Especially one unmolested with the medallion in the stock. Great shooter.
 
The Mousin Nagant is worth more if not sent back through the Arsenal with replacement parts. They replaced parts will be serial numbered with an engraver. Selling for about $400 las ones I saw. I accidentally wound up buying one, never shot it, still in the safe. Took 2 days to get the cosmoline out. The Marlins are getting collectible now, can learn more over on Marlinowners forum. The Remington made Marlins are not great. The JM stamped Marlins are oldest and best, but I think XLR models came later, still Marlins, probably has the silly crossbolt safety in front of the hammer. I collect Marlins cause I can’t afford Winchesters but they, like all guns, have gone up. Maybe a $1000 to $1200 rifle, not much to go wrong, easy to work on, parts out there.
 
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