South Bend A 9" 3 1/2

[compsurge]

It might be about right, but I think it's too high. Collets are probably $100-150 for a full set, but they will have some runout. I suspect your final work will be done between centers, but I'm not very experienced in actually making shafts. I would expect the drawbar to sell for around $100 and the milling attachment for $350 (really seems like too much, but it looks like that's the going rate). So I guess $600 seems right, but I'd try to drop it by $50-100.

The question is: do you have a need for the milling attachment? Do you have a milling machine? The milling attachment may be useful for some work such as cutting a keyway and other small parts, but keep in mind the work area will be small.

It also looks like there is a drill chuck and a machinist jack in the photos. Are they included?

 

[Dragon]

I really appreciate your help and fast responding!

I may need the milling attachment for my hobby needs, but I better getting a milling machine is that correct?, because it's much better than the milling attachment (another $1300)

will give you example about what type of milling I need; sometimes I do need to make my own frames like this pic bellow (made from carbon fiber, or soft aluminum metal) so I can create the shape I want for my Helicopter sides, or sometimes small metal parts like motor mount 47mm wide X 50mm long so the motor can set in between the frames

but I think we both agree the $600 is tight and I may (MAY) get better deal in future!

now the problem is that if I want to buy the collets by itself and then the draw bar and then the protector they will be more expensive than buy it for $250 from that guy ( he asked $250 only for the collets and the drawbar with it's adapter and the protector parts)


I just called somebody in my area whose doing grinding for the Bed and he asked me to send him a pic of my bed!

HOP HOP

 

[compsurge]

Make sure it's not a soft bed. If it is a soft bed, you just plane (basically a big shaper) and scrape true. If your bed is hardened you will need it ground. Do you have an X in your serial number or a flame hardened label on the right side of the bed?

As far as the milling attachment goes, I'd spring for it. You can always sell it for $250-350. I would venture to say you could mill that part with the attachment, but you'd have to do it in parts if there isn't enough travel.

 

[Dragon]

OK, I rechecked my Bed SN and it's on the right hand side it's (B200NK) and the other SN same right hand side it's (26605NAR9)
and there is no hardened label in the lathe


the other question is : if I want to fill the missing corners from the bed, then how I can do that? I see some videos on youtube (

)
this guys used a all purpose welding rods (white) to fill the missing teeth! so can this be used on filling the missing or the gaps in the bed ?

you can see on my bed next to the head stock, it's look like somebody was tried to eating it !!

thank you for all your inputs
Ozy

 

[Dragon]

It might be about right, but I think it's too high. Collets are probably $100-150 for a full set, but they will have some runout. I suspect your final work will be done between centers, but I'm not very experienced in actually making shafts. I would expect the drawbar to sell for around $100 and the milling attachment for $350 (really seems like too much, but it looks like that's the going rate). So I guess $600 seems right, but I'd try to drop it by $50-100.

The question is: do you have a need for the milling attachment? Do you have a milling machine? The milling attachment may be useful for some work such as cutting a keyway and other small parts, but keep in mind the work area will be small.

It also looks like there is a drill chuck and a machinist jack in the photos. Are they included?

the drill chuck is included but the 4 jaws chuck and the threading dial are not included! the rest all for $600

I brake it down like this
milling attachment $300
draw bar with spindle protector, key, 15 pc of collets, 3 or 4 of them are hardinge and the rest maybe south bend. all for $250

7 dead centers with one live centers with some other small tools for holding (I think) all for $50

so what do you think? High or good or good deal!!!

 

[compsurge]

I'd try to negotiate the thread dial thrown in for the price. I think your breakdown is good.

 

[Dragon]

tried to negotiate about the thread dial, sent him an email asking him if possible to included it with the deal, but he didn't reply to me at all! sent another email, and no hope!

looks like he is so rich! or somebody got them!

anyway, will keep my eyes on e-bay,

returned back to the starting point, looking for countershaft, AC motor, scraping the Bed and the ways, by the way; you asked me if I have X on my Bed, I rechecked that and the SN 26605NAR9 si it;s soft or hardened?

I been watching how to scrape metal like saddles or flat metals, and they are great! I got a call from the grinding company today to bring them the bronze Nut, do't know why! maybe they want to check ,my saddle! tomorrow to go there and show them the entire saddle with me

thank you!

 

[compsurge]

Hopefully it all works out. Be sure to have them determine if it is hardened. If it isn't, grinding isn't the proper method as far as I know. It could be put on a milling machine and finished by hand scraping I imagine. If they want you to bring the bronze nut, they likely need it for alignment or testing the backlash of the screws. They may also be making you a new one.

I do not think your bed is flame hardened. If you go here, you can see what the numbers mean. I read on another thread on this forum that the X usually was added for flame hardened beds and that factory regrinds had an 'R' added at the end of the serial number.

Not sure if I mentioned it yet, but you can get the drive belt at NAPA/Autozone/others. It is a synthetic cut-and-glue-to-size type. I have one on my lathe and it is very nice. You get better grip than the leather belts, it is quieter, and overall just nicer. And cheap too!

I hope to see you up and running soon. Don't worry if that $600 sale doesn't get back to you. I don't think it was the deal of the century, so don't fret over it! At a minimum, you'll want to get a good 0.0005" dial indicator on a good magnetic base and a 4 jaw chuck for your work. I only suggested collets since you will likely be using the same shaft diameters. eBay is your friend - you will only need to get the sizes you'll use. Most collets end up being paperweights!

 

[Dragon]

I just got a call from the same guy today asking me of I am still interesting on buying his stuff,
so the ball was in my yard and I asked him to include the 4 chuck jaws and the threading indicator,

so he stopped for a second and he answer; well I just listed my chuck and the thread dial on ebay!!

so I asked him to sale them to me with the other stuff all for $600 then he start getting calculating stuff then he said well!! OK, hangup the phone prepaid for going to his home, then he called me and he said I was thinking and NO I want $650! so since I need his stuff I double think and I said OK...

he met me somewhere in parking lot!!! and H got them all in his Van, he was a nice guy and he was looking to sale his stuff that he buying them everyday from estate auctions

so here is the PIC of what I get!! he was unsure if the drawbar or the other stuff he selling to me will fit my lathe!

oh the 4 chuck jaws is not fitting my spindle!!

he is a wood maker and he knows about wood lathes more!

OK I got home and I start fitting the stuff in my lathe,
BUT the spindle thread protector not the same my spindle thread, THIS is the first part not fitting!

he said that this stuff comes with his Metal lathe that He tried to sale it too (heavy 9 or maybe 11) don't know

so I took some pics and please tell me if they are the right parts!

 

[compsurge]

The chuck backplate - if it has one - could always be changed out. Is the chuck marked with a brand? I see it was manufactured in Connecticut, but I can't make out what it says above that line. It's US made, so it *should* be a good bet in terms of quality. You're going to want to tear all of your equipment down and give it a good cleaning and greasing/oiling.

Have you heard back on your lathe bed and saddle rework?