SB ( new to me gonna need your help!

Vince,
The apron was working good and looked good so I did not tear it down, but I do remember some spring clips on the inside shafts that fit into a groove. My main problem with the lathe was the gearbox being stuck and not moving at all because of the oil was dried up and the taper pins on the shafts were facing the wrong way, so I had to rotate the gears to get the pins out and do a teardown, clean and paint to get everything working again. The headstock was easy to take apart. First remove locking nut on the banjo side of spindle then put a piece of plywood on the bed under where the chuck should be and knock out the spindle toward the tailstock using a big block of wood and a big hammer or make a puller with a rod thru the spindle. There is a keyway on the spindle so when it moves it can go easy and move fast and land on the bed. Remove bolts and gears that might be in the way and the backgear shaft. The gearbox is tough to work on because of room inside of it. If you do take it apart right now be aware that the tumbler arms are right and left and the shafts use taper pins. I hope you get the gears fixed before too long.

Bridgeville has been cold all winter with a little snow every other day it seams and just north or south of us has been getting a lot of snow. I live about one mile south of Bridgeville off Washington Pike on Melrose Court, your buddy should know the street. Let me know when you are coming up this summer. I know in July I will be going to Columbus for a few days to a big car show and might have to drive one of the classics to there.
Paul

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3 Serial no. 186,514 is from March 1947 and 150,000 is from 1944 after 47 they used the letters after the number like mine.

SB LATHE.jpg DCP_0455.JPG DCP_0467.JPG
 
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I got everything back on last night, alighned the tail stock with the chuck, it was off pretty good, but maybe just from the last job it did. Filled the the oil cup on the far left side, dont know what its called but works the forward and reverse on the lead screw, no oil leaked out so that wick must be good. Im going to still put all new wicks in the unit, and theres no felts left where the cross slide or carrage rides on the ways. But after cleaning everything, its still smooth like before I cleaned it. Also took the cushman chuck apart and cleaned it and it was real clean and smooth. So next step is rebuild the gear box. Ill watch the vids a few more times and wait on my kit.
 
Vince_O said:
I got everything back on last night, alighned the tail stock with the chuck, it was off pretty good, but maybe just from the last job it did. Filled the the oil cup on the far left side, dont know what its called but works the forward and reverse on the lead screw, no oil leaked out so that wick must be good. Im going to still put all new wicks in the unit, and theres no felts left where the cross slide or carrage rides on the ways. But after cleaning everything, its still smooth like before I cleaned it. Also took the cushman chuck apart and cleaned it and it was real clean and smooth. So next step is rebuild the gear box. Ill watch the vids a few more times and wait on my kit.
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I have S/N 178388, made in 1946, so yours is close to that. During that time there were no letters after the S/N. I sent $25.00 to Grizzly.com and got a copy of the original invoice, I think you can still do that, if you want to. Does the QCGB have the 40 tooth and 56 tooth gears on it? Reason I ask is that I have a spare 56 and also a spare 80 tooth that has been repaired but don't have the bolt and spacer the 80 mounts on. Also have(I think), a used(repaired) banjo that is usable.
 
Congrats Vince :drink2: You did quite well for the money spent.

Do I need to see if I have larger tools bits for you since you upgraded from the Atlas?

Jeff
 
Jeff

First things first, need to get the gears, looks like Red Irish will help me out on this part. I bought some tools that were too big for the atlas, you may remember our talk about the green stones to sharpen them. Im sure Ill like the ones I can grind myself better, but who knows now that I have a larger machine I may just use this type.

Tomorrow Im going to list some of my command stuff to get it out of the way. Saving 2 engs as back up if the eng ever goes out on the welder. Theres no NF stuff left, I dont have much of anything left LOL! Its bad when I have to call Ray for parts
 
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I was at Ray's this morning doing some "horse trading" for Cub Cadet parts :roflmao:

Good to hear you're getting parts lined up. You'll be very happy with this machine, SB makes good stuff.
 
You have been getting good advise from the other fellas, they seem to have beat me to it, LOL Nice find, a little work and some parts sourcing and you'll have a fine machine. I will be following along to watch her come together.
 
Good purchase Vince! Looks like you are well along your repair and refurb.
Definitely get the rewicking and instruction manual on Ebay. Also easy sources of the Vactra 2 and light spindle oil you'll want to run this forever.
I wouldn't go crazy about the chipped tooth on the bull gear unless you were going to have the spindle off anyway. Then you can find them or whole spindles, on ebay.
As Redirish mentioned above, it's fun to get the printout from Grizzly with your original build ticket/order sheet from South Bend. Print it and frame it near your machine.
By the way, I don't like repaint in either! I like to enjoy the original patina!
Awesome project!

Bernie
 
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