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SB Catalog No. 84-BB
- Thread starter sniggler
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,631
lookin good, Snig!!!
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,082
Sweet! How's it running? Oh, and remember to check the oilers for the spindle bearings often.
-Ron
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2013
- Messages
- 167
Thanks guys,
Right now I'm just keeping it simple I have to learn how to use it! It is all oiled up the only thing we did was to take a few light cuts on a piece of 1/2 inch rod stock. Tubalcain has a video instructional lesson series for south bend lathe operations and I am thinking of getting it to ease the learning curve a little.
We have another pulley shaft that will give some more reduction, just by eye it seems too fast in back gear also that would get the motor off the table. Going to setup adjusters on the feet of the table level up the table better and then do the final leveling with finger shims between the feet on the lathe and the table.
I said in and an earlier post that it was missing the apron worm key, I got one off ebay it require a fair amount of grinding and sanding to fit but that worked out and travel is smooth in clutch drive longitudinal and cross feed.
My wife and I are doing renovations on our new old house (before we move in) so since the kitchen is all ripped out. We were able to wrap a sling around a 6' steel beam setting the beam across the joists under the kitchen floor and dropping the eye of the sling through a slot i cut in the floor to hang a chain fall to pick the lathe. How can i tell the wife the beam has to stay on the kitchen floor without getting clobbered?
Bob
Right now I'm just keeping it simple I have to learn how to use it! It is all oiled up the only thing we did was to take a few light cuts on a piece of 1/2 inch rod stock. Tubalcain has a video instructional lesson series for south bend lathe operations and I am thinking of getting it to ease the learning curve a little.
We have another pulley shaft that will give some more reduction, just by eye it seems too fast in back gear also that would get the motor off the table. Going to setup adjusters on the feet of the table level up the table better and then do the final leveling with finger shims between the feet on the lathe and the table.
I said in and an earlier post that it was missing the apron worm key, I got one off ebay it require a fair amount of grinding and sanding to fit but that worked out and travel is smooth in clutch drive longitudinal and cross feed.
My wife and I are doing renovations on our new old house (before we move in) so since the kitchen is all ripped out. We were able to wrap a sling around a 6' steel beam setting the beam across the joists under the kitchen floor and dropping the eye of the sling through a slot i cut in the floor to hang a chain fall to pick the lathe. How can i tell the wife the beam has to stay on the kitchen floor without getting clobbered?
Bob
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,082
Just cover it with one of those butcher block/"island" things that are in fashion now! :thumbzup:
-Ron
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2013
- Messages
- 167
Ron,
My lathe has the same spindle bearing caps and oiler cups as yours, do your oiler cups have wicks in them and what is the general wick arangement for the spidle on our machines.I replaced the wicks under the bearing caps that go in the chanels on either side of the spindle and and the wick under the collar on the front of the spindle but spindle oil still runs through pretty fast.
Bob
My lathe has the same spindle bearing caps and oiler cups as yours, do your oiler cups have wicks in them and what is the general wick arangement for the spidle on our machines.I replaced the wicks under the bearing caps that go in the chanels on either side of the spindle and and the wick under the collar on the front of the spindle but spindle oil still runs through pretty fast.
Bob
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,082
My oiler cups don't have wicks in them either and likewise, the oil runs through pretty quickly. To my knowledge (which isn't saying much) this is the way these were made. What I am planning on doing to alleviate chances of dry bearings is to add a couple of "drip oilers" to the bearing clamps. I bought a smaller pair from McMaster - http://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-reservoirs/=mzhpw8 and will make an adapter to fit it to the bearings as I can't bring myself to drill them out and re-tap or I'll disassemble the oilers and modify them to fit. The bearing caps are threaded a bit out of the modern "ordinary".
If you come across a better solution I'd love to hear it.
-Ron
If you come across a better solution I'd love to hear it.
-Ron
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2013
- Messages
- 167
Thanks Ron,
Yeah i saw those oilers and was thinking just that, in searching around i did find reference to wick running across the spindle in the oil groove of the upper bearing cap but it wasn't a south bend reference and i don't see it in the parts manual also that didn't make sense to me. I am going to do some more searching to see if we are missing something.
I had the my bearing caps off to shim the caps back to spec (as per south bend keeping your lathe in trim) as the front was at .017 and got a big break when found that someone had dislodged the old wick on one side of the jornal and clamped it back under in the bearing surface of the cap after taking that out i only had to remove .001 from each side off the front bearing to get to a dial indicated .0015. I was already with shim stock to do the job. The small jornal was at around .001 already.
I anyone else is running one of these older top oil cup split box bearing spindles please chime in and enlighten us on wicking and oil consumption.
Bob
Yeah i saw those oilers and was thinking just that, in searching around i did find reference to wick running across the spindle in the oil groove of the upper bearing cap but it wasn't a south bend reference and i don't see it in the parts manual also that didn't make sense to me. I am going to do some more searching to see if we are missing something.
I had the my bearing caps off to shim the caps back to spec (as per south bend keeping your lathe in trim) as the front was at .017 and got a big break when found that someone had dislodged the old wick on one side of the jornal and clamped it back under in the bearing surface of the cap after taking that out i only had to remove .001 from each side off the front bearing to get to a dial indicated .0015. I was already with shim stock to do the job. The small jornal was at around .001 already.
I anyone else is running one of these older top oil cup split box bearing spindles please chime in and enlighten us on wicking and oil consumption.
Bob