Removing Gorilla Glue From My Hands?

In actual response to your actual question, this is what I always use to remove CA glue:

http://amzn.com/B0000DD1QS/

I also have some of this other stuff on hand because it came up the last time I was looking for the other kind and I thought it would be good to have on hand. I haven't tried it yet, but people swear by it for removing CURED urethane-type glues including regular gorilla glue as well as regular CA glues.

http://amzn.com/B00D7J9VTC
 
(Note that those are abbreviated, standard links to the products. They are not affiliate links. Amazon URLs are VERY long and don't always come through intact in forums, facebook, email, etc. so I always shorten them by copying the product code, usually starting with B00, and put it after the http://amzn.com/ abbreviated link. You can do this with any Amazon product without first running it through a URL shortener like bit.ly or goog.le.)
 
I would recommend a barrier cream when handling any of these products. That will protect the skin - an organ in itself and make removal somewhat easier.

In my workshop I always apply barrier cream if handling any liquid product. Seen to many friends in the Engineering business suffer from skin ailments and much worse.
 
Some great information, intjonmiller. Acetone will dissolve cyanoacrylate adhesive but it takes a while. We used CA at a company I worked for some fifteen years ago and we used a debonder that was almost instantaneous. I don't remember the brand, but presumably, it was similar to your link. I will also have to try the debonder for urethane.
 
Exactly. Acetone is great in a pinch but if you're going to use the stuff regularly just get a bottle of the real thing. Amazon, woodworking stores, and hobby stores all have it.
 
One consideration for those who have experienced joint failure with urethane adhesives. All of the various brands of urethane advise dampening the joint before application of the glue. Too much water will cause the glue to set before bonding to the joint resulting in a weak joint. Under most circumstances, I do not dampen a joint. It takes longer for the glue to set but I do not have joint failures. Anyone who has used urethane adhesives can attest to the fact that they will set up in the sealed container. Wood is porous enough to permit enough moisture to reach the joint to cure it.
 
Reminds me of the time I got construction adhesive all over my hands the first time I used it. Good times! ;)
 
I've used superglue forever to close up various cuts, splits, tears and punctures in my skin. The key is to clean it out immediately with plenty of water and then disinfect thoroughly, then apply the CA.

I have also used CA to remove stubborn slivers. A drop on a toothpick, touch the sliver, wait, yank. Tweezers are my first choice, but my 5-6 pairs in the shop keep getting stolen by the Tool Gnomes....
 
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