Removing Gorilla Glue From My Hands?

Franko said:
Too late for me. I'm probably already dead from lead poisoning when we washed everything in gasoline in the 59s.
Click to expand...
Well then, I guess I should buy myself some funeral flowers. Back in good old days, when I was a wee lad. I can recall siphoning gas out of my parents car with a piece of garden hose. I got some of the gas in my stomach and the rest in the motorcycle gas tank! :eek 2:
 
i have used the foaming gorilla glue for a few years to seal cuts and cracks in my hands and my feet. you can smear it on the crack or even an open cut, and as its drying, use a wet finger to push down on the expanding foam.
if you wipe your finger with a paper towel or tissue, before it starts to set, it comes right off. it looks kinda funny but it sure stops the "ouch" from the cracks and it stays on for a couple days, and the crack is usually pretty well healed by then. i showed this to a well drilling friend whose hands were so badly cracked they were bleeding and it made him smile.
i store my bottle in an toilet paper cardboard roll with a bit of paper still around it for added strength, upside down with a small wad of paper in the bottom of the roll to catch any seepage that may occur. I'm still using one that i opened last fall. . . i made a "sanding board" by gluing some cloth back 120 grit sandpaper on a wood paint stirring stick.
one of the ER Doctors said the stuff they use to hold skin together thats in places where stiches would not be desired is basically gorilla glue and super glue mixed together. hard to argue with something that actually functions. . .
 
ATF (automatic transmission fluid) will clean most any types glue/grime etc off my hands before I get to the house,otherwise baby oil when in the house will also work.
50 plus years of exposure to every carcinogen cancer causing chemical including smoking, still kicking and not worrying.
 
Franko said:
Too late for me. I'm probably already dead from lead poisoning when we washed everything in gasoline in the 59s.
Click to expand...
Wow, I remember those days! Washing parts with leaded gasoline in a washtub. Gasoline up past your elbows, that tingly feeling in your arms. But then we were eating all that mercury laden fish and we didn't even know that PCB's existed.
 
davidh said:
i have used the foaming gorilla glue for a few years to seal cuts and cracks in my hands and my feet. you can smear it on the crack or even an open cut, and as its drying, use a wet finger to push down on the expanding foam.
if you wipe your finger with a paper towel or tissue, before it starts to set, it comes right off. it looks kinda funny but it sure stops the "ouch" from the cracks and it stays on for a couple days, and the crack is usually pretty well healed by then. i showed this to a well drilling friend whose hands were so badly cracked they were bleeding and it made him smile.
i store my bottle in an toilet paper cardboard roll with a bit of paper still around it for added strength, upside down with a small wad of paper in the bottom of the roll to catch any seepage that may occur. I'm still using one that i opened last fall. . . i made a "sanding board" by gluing some cloth back 120 grit sandpaper on a wood paint stirring stick.
one of the ER Doctors said the stuff they use to hold skin together thats in places where stiches would not be desired is basically gorilla glue and super glue mixed together. hard to argue with something that actually functions. . .
Click to expand...
David, I have used Super glue for two decades to close skin cracks and "stitch" wounds. My understanding was that it was originally developed for surgical purposes but caused scarring and use discontinued. The next time that I encountered it being used medically, was a veterinarian using to close a two inch gash on the head of my horse. Since then, it seems to have come back into favor.
I had not heard of mixing the urethane and Super glue together. One of the drawbacks with super glue is it is rather rigid and when used on skin, tends to unbond. The urethane may give it the needed flexibility. I will have to try it.
 
I am with Franko. I used to do a lot of woodworking, worked in a Woodcraft store and was told by folks how great Gorilla Glue was. Ya its great at failing. If it were free I would still drive 20 miles the other direction to get some glue that works consistently for the intended purpose. I have stuff I built with yellow glue that I built as a teen that still holds, can not say anything good about Gorilla glue, I do like the free t shirts they gave us though, still wear em to the gym. I know a few cabinet makers, none of em use the stuff, that tells me all I need to know.

michael
 
I was hoping someone actually had an answer, but I guess you know what color a Gorilla's hands are?
 
It's possible there isn't an answer, Dragonheart. :)
 
Gorilla Glue (the urethane type) is great for bonding mixed media. When dealing with wood-to-wood bonds it works fine, but it's not my favorite. The variations in strength tests between it and yellow glue is typically attributable to differences in the testing methods. Yellow glue tends to come out stronger, but gorilla glue is still plenty strong when you have a tight (proper) joint in the first place. As someone mentioned epoxy is the only thing worth considering when the joint has more than a very slight gap.

The reason virtually all commercial woodworkers (the majority of whom are cabinetmakers) use yellow glue isn't even about strength. Yellow glue sets in under 30 minutes (unless using an Extend variety which has a retarder to prolong the open time with the side-effect of also extending the required clamping time). Gorilla glue needs to be clamped for at least 12 hours (and the labels always say 24). That's not viable for most production environments, so the strength issue doesn't even enter the realm of consideration.

Personally I use a lot of CA glue for my (commissioned) woodworking. It works especially well on sliding dovetail shelves as the tight-fitting dovetail joint pushes out any type of glue when assembling, so instead I assemble it dry and then apply thin CA glue from the back of the joint. It flows in by capillary action. A tiny shot of catalyst spray and it cures within seconds.

What's fun is when you give it too much, or the joint wasn't quite as tight-fitting as you thought, and it flows out of the other side of the joint and down onto your hand where you're holding the workpiece JUST as you spray the catalyst. Not only do you end up instantly glued to the workpiece but the exothermic reaction occurs over about 1 second instead of 10 to 30 (depending on the variety). So you're stuck to a workpiece by glue that is simultaneously burning you. Ask me how I know. Learned that the hard way just this past weekend.

20150504_072210.jpg

That's not the only lesson I learned from that experience. I always keep CA debonder/solvent on hand as part of my standard supplies. After I finished expressing my feelings about being burned by glue I grabbed the solvent and went inside (thankfully it was a small piece) to free my hand from the wood. When I applied the solvent I discovered that the wood absorbs it faster than it can dissolve the glue. It works great when you glue yourself to yourself or to the bottle, but not so much with wood. I had to abandon all of my safety rules and use a razor sharp chisel, cutting unquestionably toward myself on an uncomfortable angle and with only one hand to control the tool, to carefully cut the glue from the wood. Fortunately there were not further injuries, and now I make sure to hold the piece in a way that won't allow the glue to run to my hand if it escapes the joint (which rarely happens anyway).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top