Removal Of Hex Nut From Clutch Mechanism Under The Star Shaped Knob

[4GSR]

Watch it! That nut may have a left hand thread on it. At least on my 9A lathe the knob is held on with a screw that has left hand thread on it. Discovered that by accident. As for the tapered pin, lot of good advice given, but if it's like some I've encountered in my past, you may have no choice but drill it out.

 

[razinman]

Do you have an air impact wrench? That would pop it off without causing any problems.

It's not that I can't turn it, the problem is the clutch arrangement turns and there's no way to secure the shaft that the hex nut is attached to.
[I'm going to take a pic and send it in an email later today (there' s a snap ring within the hex nut)-when I send the pic you'll
see what I mean the manual does not show it for some reason.]
I heard of someone had a machinist make him a tool(part) to remove the hex nut
Many thanks for your concern........razinman

 

[razinman]

Watch it! That nut may have a left hand thread on it. At least on my 9A lathe the knob is held on with a screw that has left hand thread on it. Discovered that by accident. As for the tapered pin, lot of good advice given, but if it's like some I've encountered in my past, you may have no choice but drill it out.

It is a right handed thread, the star knob came off when it turned counterclockwise.
The problem is the drill bit is stuck in the hole where the taper pin still is, would you use a carbide-tipped bit to remove the broken HSS bits?
Thanks...........razinman

 

[4GSR]

If you can drill it from the opposite side, that way when you hit the broke off drill bit, you just push it out of the hole. I would do that before trying to drill out a broken drill, which I doubt you'll be able to drill it out without breaking off a carbide drill bit. Then what do you do?

 

[JimDawson]

The problem is the drill bit is stuck in the hole where the taper pin still is, would you use a carbide-tipped bit to remove the broken HSS bits?

You might be able to use a concrete type bit, but I would use a carbide burr. A carbide twist drill will just shatter.

 

[chips&more]

It’s a taper pin, so it has a big end and a small end. Forget about the big end. Get a GOOD punch that is smaller than the diameter of the small end. YOU DO NOT WANT TO MUSHROOM THE SMALL END OF THAT TAPER PIN. Support the assembly so your hammer blow energy goes the taper pin and not somewhere else. Maybe try a little heat. I would forget about trying to remove those broken drill bits unless you have an EDM machine. ..Good Luck, Dave.

 

[razinman]

If you can drill it from the opposite side, that way when you hit the broke off drill bit, you just push it out of the hole. I would do that before trying to drill out a broken drill, which I doubt you'll be able to drill it out without breaking off a carbide drill bit. Then what do you do?

I did that already and that bit broke too , so now I have two bits broke in opposite side of the same hole !
Kerry

 

[razinman]

It’s a taper pin, so it has a big end and a small end. Forget about the big end. Get a GOOD punch that is smaller than the diameter of the small end. YOU DO NOT WANT TO MUSHROOM THE SMALL END OF THAT TAPER PIN. Support the assembly so your hammer blow energy goes the taper pin and not somewhere else. Maybe try a little heat. I would forget about trying to remove those broken drill bits unless you have an EDM machine. ..Good Luck, Dave.

I'll try to get a good punch , I know my woodworking tools, machinist punches are new to me. Harbor freight sucks, sears used to make good quality handtools
and machinists tools , unless you know of a company I'll take a look at some online machinists tool companies.
Thanks....Razinman

 

[chips&more]

I'll try to get a good punch , I know my woodworking tools, machinist punches are new to me. Harbor freight sucks, sears used to make good quality handtools
and machinists tools , unless you know of a company I'll take a look at some online machinists tool companies.
Thanks....Razinman

Getting the hammer blow energy to the taper pin is important. You do not want it going to a flimsy punch or to the rest of the carriage assembly. Only to the taper pin. And I forgot to mention that a round punch could be a little longer than you would like. Longer is not good. Again, could lose energy. If the punch is too long, I would shorten it first. I might be sounding like I’m out there. But for me this is important. I have never had any bad luck removing a taper pin. Some have been stubborn. But they all came out…Dave.

 

[4GSR]

I'll try to get a good punch , I know my woodworking tools, machinist punches are new to me. Harbor freight sucks, sears used to make good quality handtools
and machinists tools , unless you know of a company I'll take a look at some online machinists tool companies.
Thanks....Razinman

Starrett pin punches is all that I will use, or that will hold up longer. And if you have to, shorten the length of the pin on the punch so it is less likely to bend on you when you give it that sharp blow. I sometimes use a pair of vise-grips to hold the punch. And put on some heavy gloves to soften the blow if you hit yourself with the hammer!