Removal Of Hex Nut From Clutch Mechanism Under The Star Shaped Knob

razinman

razinman

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I bought a SB 10L some time ago(6 months) been busy getting ready to move and started dismantling and cleaning the lathe again in between . I'm done with the tailstock, saddle and taper attachment.
However ,I'm stuck on the disassembly of the apron. I have the older version with the star
shaped clutch actuator mechanism. Mostly everything else came off fairly easier. In the manual it was stated
that after the star knob is removed , in order to take out the clutch mechanism the hex nut must be removed
first. In order to do this, it stated to grip the clutch gear from the rear and remove the hex nut. However when
the clutch gear is held the idler gear (which is geared into the smaller gear attached to the draw bar of the
clutch mechanism)still continues to move. I'm afraid that if I'm able to wedge a piece of wood to hold the idler
gear, which meshes with the small gear of the clutch the teeth will break?
One other problem, when taking out the upper rack pinion gear the taper pin was stuck in but
good! I attempted to knock it out but failed after several attempts, I tried to drilled out the taper pin but the
bit broke in the hole(I tried it from both directions and the bit broke in each side) Before I take it to a
machinist for him to try to get the bit out should I attempt it with a carbide bit(These taper pins are a real
Pain in the A$@)-70 + years is a long time to spend in one place !)
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...............Razinman
 
If a piece of the drill bit is still there, you will probably shatter a carbide bit (ask me how I know). Try to tease out the broken bit first. Then try the carbide. If possible the drilling operation should be done in a controlled manner as on a drill press or a mill. Carbide is sensitive that way.

It is possible that the pin has partially sheared during a period of stress. The central portion of the pin will be offset from the two ends effectively locking the pin in place. This happened on my wife's rototiller shift mechanism. I was able to sever the pin and drive the pieces out separately.

It may help to soak the part thoroughly with a good penetrating oil.

Bob
 
Without looking at the gear arrangement I couldn't advise on that. My suspicion is that the gears would take the load of a wood wedge, but no recommendation.

Sounds like its time to break out the Dremel or small die grinder with a carbide burr. I have removed a lot of broken drill bits and easy-outs that way.
.
.
 
RJSakowski said:
If a piece of the drill bit is still there, you will probably shatter a carbide bit (ask me how I know). Try to tease out the broken bit first. Then try the carbide. If possible the drilling operation should be done in a controlled manner as on a drill press or a mill. Carbide is sensitive that way.

It is possible that the pin has partially sheared during a period of stress. The central portion of the pin will be offset from the two ends effectively locking the pin in place. This happened on my wife's rototiller shift mechanism. I was able to sever the pin and drive the pieces out separately.

It may help to soak the part thoroughly with a good penetrating ,
RJSakowski said:
If a piece of the drill bit is still there, you will probably shatter a carbide bit (ask me how I know). Try to tease out the broken bit first. Then try the carbide. If possible the drilling operation should be done in a controlled manner as on a drill press or a mill. Carbide is sensitive that way.

It is possible that the pin has partially sheared during a period of stress. The central portion of the pin will be offset from the two ends effectively locking the pin in place. This happened on my wife's rototiller shift mechanism. I was able to sever the pin and drive the pieces out separately.

It may help to soak the part thoroughly with a good penetrating oil.

Bob
Click to expand...
RJSakowski said:
If a piece of the drill bit is still there, you will probably shatter a carbide bit (ask me how I know). Try to tease out the broken bit first. Then try the carbide. If possible the drilling operation should be done in a controlled manner as on a drill press or a mill. Carbide is sensitive that way.

It is possible that the pin has partially sheared during a period of stress. The central portion of the pin will be offset from the two ends effectively locking the pin in place. This happened on my wife's rototiller shift mechanism. I was able to sever the pin and drive the pieces out separately.

It may help to soak the part thoroughly with a good penetrating oil.

Bob
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I used a drill press when I attempted to drill out the taper pin, I will soak it in Transmission fluid(I was told it could be
possibly effective-unless you n=know of something better.
Thanks....Razinman
 
JimDawson said:
Without looking at the gear arrangement I couldn't advise on that. My suspicion is that the gears would take the load of a wood wedge, but no recommendation.

Sounds like its time to break out the Dremel or small die grinder with a carbide burr. I have removed a lot of broken drill bits and easy-outs that way.
.
.
Click to expand...
I originally ground down the head of the taper pin(with a dremel tool) so that I could determine which was the smaller end. I don't think that I could control
the dremel tool to make a precise cut.
If you can get a view of the apron of SB 10L it is the Upper rack pinon gear that is giving me the problem.
Thanks again......Razinman
 
razinman said:
I used a drill press when I attempted to drill out the taper pin, I will soak it in Transmission fluid(I was told it could be
possibly effective-unless you n=know of something better.
Thanks....Razinman
Click to expand...

Mix the ATF 50/50 with acetone, will penetrate much better.
 
JimDawson said:
Mix the ATF 50/50 with acetone, will penetrate much better.
Click to expand...
I know that's that right combo-! Thanks.
YES YES YES part #27 pg 19 is CORRECT!
Right now I'm dousing it with acetone/ATF : 50/50
Wish me good luck. I'm still not sure of how I'm going to get the taper pin out.
Harbor freight 4" punches bent! the elongated ones were too wide.(I have an older set for nail sets, due to the tapered heads I can't use them But they
do not bend the way HFT's did)
I'm going to buy a set from a local machine parts dealer hopefully NOT "made in china"
Thanks for all your help ........Kerry
Any idea how to get the hex nut behind the Star knob(of the clutch mechanism)out?
 
razinman said:
Any idea how to get the hex nut behind the Star knob(of the clutch mechanism)out?
Click to expand...

Do you have an air impact wrench? That would pop it off without causing any problems.
 
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