Price check in aisle 3, forklift rental?

Thanks for the great ideas. And especially for the warning on the bricks. The bricks are set in stone dust, or actually polymerized sand. I suppose I could put down a sheet of plywood to spread the load on the surface, especially by the steps.

Will check into a bobcat or large garden tractor as well.
 
Forklift is one of the tools I miss the most from my old shop. definitely go with a skid steer or tractor with forks, you don't want to have to rescue the forklift. don't ask how I know this.....

John
 
matthewsx said:
Forklift is one of the tools I miss the most from my old shop. definitely go with a skid steer or tractor with forks, you don't want to have to rescue the forklift. don't ask how I know this.....

John
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Haha I did this. It was “fun”. Got a little stuck and then had my wife helping me get it out. I was in the truck and she was in the lift. At one point we were almost out but she got scared and hit the brakes and that lift sunk straight to the frame immediately.

Luckily my neighbor has a tow truck. We hooked up his winch and we’re able to just about lift the front of his truck before she broke loose and got back on concrete. I also dug out in front of the tires.

My dualy f350 wouldn’t budge it. Neither did my large skid steer or my 5k lift.

Moral of the story is stay on pavement.

Also laying plywood can be a good solution but you’ll spend more in plywood then just getting a tracked skid steer without a doubt.

Just rent the tracked skid steer and buy yourself 1 or 2 bags of play sand.
If you are going straight you don’t need sand but wherever you need to turn sprinkle some down. Even a small turn needs sand unless you don’t mind black tire tracks.
 
Home Depot for SKID STEER TRACKED, ROC 700-1200 LB is $339 + $199 delivery + $51 damage prevention = $588 for one day.
Seems like that's a lot. The rental location is only 6 miles away. Can't drive the skid steer on public streets can I?
United Rental is $700.72 with all the fees. ($340 for delivery and pickup.) T450 Bobcat. Makes HD look inexpensive! Better machine though.

Interesting that many places show one price, then when you click on it the price on the new page is higher, like $60. Not what I was expecting. More research and calls required.
 
600 pounds would be pushing the weight limit on my front end loader. A small tractor, bigger than a garden tractor but smaller than a back hoe, with a loader.(~30HP) I have "clip on" forks to fit the bucket, but the capacity goes down fast there. I have moved pallets with the bucket, using chains to wrap the overhanging part of the pallet. Not very secure for a tall load, but I have a flat yard so not much jostling. And I can chain the top part back to the lifting mechanism.

Handy for deliveries without paying for lift gate service. About the heaviest I lifted high was pallets of roofing shingles, maybe 20 years back. Lifted some to the roof, the house has 12 ft ceilings and a 12/12 pitch roof. My loader would barely reach. . . The bucket wouldn't reach crosswise to a pickup but is fine for my flatbed 1 ton. Actually a low sided dump truck, call it a hydraulic flat bed.

The biggest concern for moving machinery is the overhanging load on the front axle. The loader is several feet in front of the front axle when lowered. And the front axle is much lighter than the rear. A "box blade" makes a good counterweight aft. An old tractor, I just have manual steering and the ground to work on. No bricks or paving. Living in an urban environment, I only have a quarter acre back yard. Overbearing sure, but I do have several acres up country and it does get used. Or did, before this last stroke. . . I know that what I have and what you need is not always a match. Just an idea for a possible friend. A rubber tired loader is just another option.

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Another possibility might be a rollback wrecker. Some have mentioned them for moving a large machine. Depending on what is on the pallet they may be able to winch it onto the flatbed, and they have some ability to move the bed backwards so if it is just a few feet may be able to back up and put it on the porch. Advantage to this is you are just paying mileage and actual time for the operator which may be a lot cheaper than the forklifts options you are finding.
 
Hmm, necessity is the mother of invention. Just thought of this. I do have a hydraulic cart, it has a 36" x 21" table. Think it is a 1000 lb capacity. I still need to bridge the gap between the stairs and the porch. I'd lower the cart for transport and raise it for the stairs. Could use some 2x10's to bridge the gap? I have two left over pieces that are about 6ft long. The piece I'd roll along is 350 lbs + the weight of the pallet. The whole pallet is more, but I could unload it after I removed it from the vehicle and move pieces separately. I could use a comealong to pull the pallet out of the car. Maybe I could use a 2x10 (or bigger?) across the house doorway to pull the pallet off the cart. This could work. Advantage, it's free. The cart table size is not a huge mismatch to the pallet. Obviously I will put the heavy side on the table.

Ok - that's my idea. What do I have to watch out for to prevent injuring myself or my cargo? Cargo is a small lathe, a 10x22, which might not be big for you, but it's at about my limit for getting into my old basement.

Getting it down the narrow stairwell will be exciting, especially rounding the corner at the bottom of the stairwell. The hydraulic cart weighs about 185 lbs. Debating with myself if I should bring the cart down first. Probably make a sled ramp to make things easier.
 
WobblyHand said:
Hmm, necessity is the mother of invention. Just thought of this. I do have a hydraulic cart, it has a 36" x 21" table. Think it is a 1000 lb capacity. I still need to bridge the gap between the stairs and the porch. I'd lower the cart for transport and raise it for the stairs. Could use some 2x10's to bridge the gap? I have two left over pieces that are about 6ft long. The piece I'd roll along is 350 lbs + the weight of the pallet. The whole pallet is more, but I could unload it after I removed it from the vehicle and move pieces separately. I could use a comealong to pull the pallet out of the car. Maybe I could use a 2x10 (or bigger?) across the house doorway to pull the pallet off the cart. This could work. Advantage, it's free. The cart table size is not a huge mismatch to the pallet. Obviously I will put the heavy side on the table.

Ok - that's my idea. What do I have to watch out for to prevent injuring myself or my cargo? Cargo is a small lathe, a 10x22, which might not be big for you, but it's at about my limit for getting into my old basement.

Getting it down the narrow stairwell will be exciting, especially rounding the corner at the bottom of the stairwell. The hydraulic cart weighs about 185 lbs. Debating with myself if I should bring the cart down first. Probably make a sled ramp to make things easier.
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8 foot 2X10s will work wonders for many projects. As you move on one pair, place the others in front. And keep repeating. And kudos for thinking beyond getting it on the porch. Back guying is the key to handling the stairs. Tie off the top and pay it out to lower. Keeping yourself above the load. With the roller table at the bottom to load itself. I use chains because I have so many. But for less than 1000 pounds, a good rope works just as well, maybe better. (old sailor perspective) And the best part is (almost) no cost. Necessity is indeed the mother. . .

.
 
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