Pm935 Owners

Thanks Mike. :)

Interestingly, I was looking at the pics of the 935TS on PM's website and noticed that the pic of the left side of the mill shows a right angle fitting on the smaller access door with some cables coming out. Looks like Matt and company mount these VFDs on the inside of that panel.
 
Has anyone programmed one of these wj200s for a 935? Or can I just start with the parameters that someone gave me for the 1340GT?
 
Bill, you want to set up the VFD with your motor name plate values for voltage, current, and base RPM. Also make sure the motor is wired for low voltage (230V). To start with I would also set the accel to about 3 sec, and the decel to around 5 sec. Unless I'm forgetting something this should get you going from the key pad on the VFD, then after its running, program it for the remote panel operation. A lot less confusing that way.

I have a manual so if you need to get into it deeper, let me know and I'll grab it.
 
VFD program parameters would be a different for some of the settings, do you plan on using momentary switches for 3 wire or sustained switches for 2 wire. Input parameters would be different. With 3 wire the machine cannot auto-start, but there is another command to prevent this with 2 wire with a voltage drop out. Braking would probably be fixed at something like 2 seconds (single stage), acceleration probably 5 seconds. Not sure what other functions you would want, on my mill I have a threading setting which cuts the turning speed, and has an auto-reverse set off the quill stop. Would auto-tune the VFD to the motor. I can but together a parameter file if needed.

Jim's suggestion of putting the VFD in the machine, may not be unreasonable, can't see doing any program changes once it is up and running. There is always the USB port.
 
I didn't buy the switches nor the box, but the switches look like plastic versions of those you suggested I buy for the 1340. The fwd/off/rev switch takes one wire in, two out the top. Not a momentary switch. The input wire runs through the e-stop switch, so I assume I would connect that wire (black, which is running through the e-stop) to terminal 'L'. From the e-stop it goes to the fwd/off/rev switch and the outputs (red, white) I 'assume' would go to the fwd and rev inputs on the input terminals (terminals 1 and 2 respectively?). The other three wires are from the pot which would have the low side go to 'L', centertap to 'O', and high side to 'H'. I think.

I don't have any relays or illuminated switches that require power.
 
I looked through the manual, I think you have the wiring figured out.:encourage:
 
Jim: What did you mean by "make sure the motor is wired for low voltage (230v)? There is no Hi/Lo motor speed switch like I see on some 3-phase lathes. Just a fwd/off/rev drum switch which i replaced with my little control box.
 
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