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PM-727m New mill has arrived!

Discussion in 'PRECISION-MATTHEWS' started by Sloth2009, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. fradish

    fradish United States Active Member Active Member

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    So the drop I am seeing is when the FF is engaged (#4 is tight, binding #1 to #3) and the quill lock is completely
    loose. I don't see it all of the time. The best explanation of what I feel when lowering the quill (only when lowering)
    would be if the worm gear was missing a tooth and the quill dropped a small amount. I suppose it could also be
    that the quill is catching on the set screw a bit and instead of the quill dropping smoothly it hangs a bit then
    drops suddenly. Maybe there is a rough spot on the quill where the set screw rides?
    The drop is not a huge amount, but it happens.

    What I really need to do is to be much more methodical about characterizing this. I have marked where the
    keyway is on the outside of hub #1, so I can raise the quill as high as it will go and record over multiple
    tries where I encounter this drop (like the keyway mark is at 3 o'clock on the first revolution of the FF and
    9 o'clock on the second.) Having this information might help identify if this seems like a gearing issue or
    maybe it is an issue with the set screws...

    I just need to find time to do this... :)
     
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  2. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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  3. fradish

    fradish United States Active Member Active Member

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    Short answer, it might have just needed grease!

    I seem to have either fixed my problem or reduced it to the point
    where it is undetectable. I took off the fine feed gear box (not that big of a deal)
    just watch the key and spring. There is a snap ring that was a little stiff, but once
    that was off the worm gear slid off.

    The worm and worm gear both looked pristine.
    No broken teeth or burrs. There was however a blob of grease off to the side of
    the track in which the worm and gear meshed. I spread that out and added some
    more until all of the teeth of the worm gear had a light even coating of grease.

    I then greased the bore of the worm gear and the worm itself. I put it back together
    and there was still a bit of a drop! It was smoother, but not fixed. Since I had the grease out
    I greased the rack on the back of the spindle, a light coating all over the spindle and a little
    in the groove where the set screw rides. After working the feed up and down a few times, I could
    no longer detect a drop.

    Though I'm glad I greased up the worm gear, I don't think that was necessary. I think something
    in the spindle was just sticking.
     
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  4. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    I think most of the issues we have run across with the quill feed have been related to how the gears from the quill pinion shaft and the gear teeth on the back of the column mesh together. Keeping the set screws tight and sliding smoothly plus keeping the gears clean and lubed seem to be the best answers for us. Glad you solved your issue!
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2017
  5. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    I used the mill to hollow out the micarta handle for this little hatchet. I had most of the hatchet finished before I got the mill. If I ever make another one, I will use the mill to slot in the gas shut off wrench on the handle instead of forging it in. A fireman friend asked me to make it for him to take on safety checks.
    IMG_5622.JPG IMG_5623.JPG IMG_5625.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2017
    BFHammer, Fitter Bill and fradish like this.
  6. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Got the 5/16" delrin in today. Its a nice sliding fit in the set screw hole and in the column slot. I just made a little plug like I did out of the brass. Its definately a big improvement over the stock set screw. IMG_5630.JPG IMG_5631.JPG IMG_5632.JPG IMG_5633.JPG
     
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  7. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Finally made some tram aids. Split the 2" CR stock down the middle then used a 3/4" end mill to square up the band sawed sides. I drilled and counterbored the holes for the cap screws. Then drilled and threaded the other holes. Also painted them to match the mill. IMG_5609.JPG IMG_5634.JPG IMG_5655.JPG IMG_5656.JPG
     
  8. fradish

    fradish United States Active Member Active Member

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    That is so weird, I had thought of making something very much like that for my mill.
    I never built it, but what you've built is pretty much what I was thinking of.
    I'm a little hesitant to drill into my mill, so I was going to see if I could just
    use a bar clamp down from the top. But I always thought having screw adjusters
    would be better than tapping with a dead blow.

    So, does it make tramming easier and more precise?

    Good Job! Looks very professional.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2017
  9. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Thanks! My machine should still be trammed in from the epoxy tram, so I haven't used them yet. From what I've read, these screw style tram aids work very well for fine tuning in the head swing. If you decide to make some be careful on the left side of the head when your drill pilot hole since the gib and gib screws are on that side. I tapped the head 1/4-20 for the mounting bolts and the bracket 3/8-16 for the set screw.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2017
  10. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Made a Japanese style forging hammer hardened to about 50 RWC. Its for me so didn't try to make it too pretty. IMG_5673.JPG IMG_5674.JPG
     
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  11. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    My x-axis power feed came in today from PM. It is a ALSGS ALB-310s and specs to 450 inch lbs. It was $295 shipped from PM. You can find it cheaper elsewhere, but I wanted to by from them for their customer service. These power feeds install horizontally on the PM-727m which is a bit awkward because it takes up more floorspace. I haven't seen one that sits vertically on this type of mill, but there may be one out there. Some of you may want to see what installation entails. I will post a few more pics when get some time to put it on. IMG_5735.JPG
     
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  12. TheGov

    TheGov United States Iron Registered Member

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    That's one nice power feed. At times, after cranking, Ive been tempted to even hook up a cordless drill just to give the arms a rest.

    After reading about the delrin, had to dig through the moving boxes and found a stick. Once I get some time I'll have to impliment it.
     
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  13. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    The directions that came with the new power feed are the usual lost in translation Chinese variety, so expect a bit of head scratching. The installation wasn't hard, but there are a few things of note.

    The motor mounting bracket comes in two parts. One that clamps to the table with 2 bolts and one that mounts on the motor housing with 2 bolts. They are also joined together by 2 more bolts. The different bolts allow adjustability in how the motor pinion gear and the bevel gear that installs on the x-axis mesh up. It may take some fine tuning to get the gears running smooth.

    You will need to get 2 mounting bolts then drill and tap holes to mount the limit switch. The little T-slot nuts that anchor the switch stops are slightly too big for the PM-727m and need sanded or filed down a bit. Also I find the stops snag up on my "upgraded" locking knobs, so I may have to go back to the original levers.

    I do wish the power led was brighter as it is really hard to see. Otherwise I'm happy with how the how the power feed works. The speed control and transmission lever work great. Now I just need to use it to make some chips.

    IMG_5738.JPG IMG_5741.JPG IMG_5747.JPG IMG_5748.JPG IMG_5754.JPG IMG_5755.JPG IMG_5757.JPG
    IMG_5760.JPG IMG_5759.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
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  14. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    IMG_5769.JPG Sold the hatchet I made and bought a 13 piece collet set. My R8 tooling now almost fills up the rack.
     
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  15. darkzero

    darkzero Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    My thought too. Without thinking about it, I thought it was an LED also but it's actually a neon bulb. You can always do what I did (or similar). Post 65 .


    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Nice! I have built Led drivers before but its been quite some time. If it annoys me enough, I will follow your lead and upgrade the light.:applause 2:
     
  17. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Squaring off the sawed edges of some 4140 for a project.
     
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  18. Lefty Turner

    Lefty Turner United States Iron Registered Member

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    Nice job on the install for the power feed. Is the ball oiler on the left end of your x-axis lead screw now inaccessible for oiling the support bearing. Looks like it could be a challenge. Just curious.

    Lefty
     
  19. Sloth2009

    Sloth2009 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Yes it does get covered. You can remove the power feed off the table fairly easily by losening 2 bolts. I would have to look at it closer, but I suppose you could look at drilling an access hole in the mounting bracket so the feed could be kept in place.
     

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