Peerless Power Hacksaw

I will weld it myself. I have done several repairs on cast Iron in the past that worked well but I am only an amateur. I have been playing with some "EZ weld" tig rod with some success but I am not sure what method I will use but no doubt it will include preheating and slow cool down. I used the EZ to weld the broken door hinge on this saw. I will try annealing the saw frame after welding. Good advise though to try to machine and fit the part to be welded. In this case ,I think it may be better to cut off the broken "ear" and make the whole thing. My cousin has a friend working at heat treat company who may anneal it for me in a heat treat oven once welded. I have it in the electrolosis tank now with only a few parts to finish stripping.
 
image.jpeg This is a picture of the saw frame break. The black line is where I am thinking of making a cut and then grind/mill the frame back (V) for welding or brazing. I am thinking this combined with making a 3/8" thick replacement piece out of mild steel with a weld clearance as well. The blade (gap) notch is 1/2 " . I would place a piece of 1/2 stock in this notch and the new piece would be clamped as secure as I can get it so this gap is maintained as best as I can get it. I am still kicking debating weld or braze but leaning towards braze. Does anyone know what the threaded hole on the frame coming up from the bottom of the saw frame is for? I also thought maybe machine it back creating a lip or edge and screwing a replacement piece on using 3 or 4 screws. There is some meat there. Any suggestions? Ski
 
This pic is of the blade tensioner. The guide or tension bar has a bottom plate to keep it in position.
Am uncertain which end of your frame is broken.
Hope this helps.
IMG_9815-1.jpg
 
tertiaryjim said:
This pic is of the blade tensioner. The guide or tension bar has a bottom plate to keep it in position.
Am uncertain which end of your frame is broken.
Hope this helps.
View attachment 129383
Click to expand...
Tensioner end is broken, same end you pictured. I can't see any bolt hole in yours.
 
See the two silver bolt heads, positioned vertically ( in this pic ) and facing us. They hold a small plate to keep the tension bar in place. We're looking at the bottom of the frame with the tensioner assembled .
 
tertiaryjim said:
See the two silver bolt heads, positioned vertically ( in this pic ) and facing us. They hold a small plate to keep the tension bar in place. We're looking at the bottom of the frame with the tensioner assembled .
Click to expand...
Ok on that. Seems a little thin for bolts but Maybe I can increase the thickness of the piece I put in. Do you think removing the section along the line I drew and then machining a flat on the saw frame and screwing the replacement section in would be strong enough? Just exploring options. Ski
 
Just a thought-- with proper heavy blades ( Victornet) perfect alignment and
tension are very important, also twist under load.........BLJHB
 
Since the blade is held in the frame with pins and a pinch clamp, a couple of bolts would probably carry the load.
Would use bolts that fit close in the holes and had a shoulder through the repair leg and you could machine a boss for it to but up against.
Countersunk or socket head bolts wouldn't stick out from the frame.
 
tertiaryjim said:
See the two silver bolt heads, positioned vertically ( in this pic ) and facing us. They hold a small plate to keep the tension bar in place. We're looking at the bottom of the frame with the tensioner assembled .
Click to expand...
This saw frame only has the threads in the broken piece. The other side does not have a threaded hole. There is a small spot ( hole ) at the inside corner of the undrilled and tapped side. I'll post a pic of this.
 
Ski said:
View attachment 124695 TheView attachment 124693 Hello Everyone, I have been given a power hacksaw made by the Peerless company ,Racine,Wi. This has a pat. Date of May 7,1912. It looks fairly complete so I am going to go thru it and polish it up a bit. Does anyone have any info as far as where I will find model, and or serial numbers? I will post a couple pictures.
This has a beast of a GE Induction motor, 1 hp ,3 phase motor that ,as I see it turns about 854 rpm's. It is apparent that this must have been added since this looks like it was run with a flat belt. The motor has a dual V belt pulley on it and there were 2 V belts on it,with one in place and one not. Hard to believe they would even stay on. My thoughts are finding or making a flat belt pulley to fit the motor and using the proper flat belt. That or run a line shaft. Ski
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Ski:
I have an identical peerless. Love that thing use in my machine shop daily. Mine had a flat belt and still had the twin pulley and shifting mechanism for a line shaft. Very little ware was evident. The large drive wheel was geared so I removed all the old stuff turned the gear teeth off, cut a V groove on the main sheave added a jack shaft and a 1/3 hp motor. Added a magnetic starter set up and it's nice that it shuts itself off at end of cut. Not the fasted saws in the world but the bi metal blades from Starrett that I use are inexpensive and last forever if you treat them right. I have the coolant pump but do not use it. I would guess it used that old black surfer cutting oil. Only thing wrong is the cast lip behind where the crank pulls back is broken from a chunk that was placed there and forgotten long before me. Payed $100 for it and the first job was cutting all thread anchor bolts for our local Fastenal store. I don't think Fastenal was suppose to do this but there was a long delivery time for them and the contractors wanted them that day. At $.50 a cut and I bundled in tens and made out pretty good.
machinejack
 
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