Oil Seal For The Colchester

Good morning, Carroll :)

Where you have a wood lathe, I suggest that you make a driving dog out of wood to drive the shaft. Maybe glue two layers of 3/4" plywood together, bore it out close to the OD of the gear, split it down the middle and then contour the outside so that you can run a couple of bolts through each side to act as a clamp onto the gear. The drill for a bolt at right angles to the clamp to act as a driver against one of the chuck jaws.

Here's a crude drawing to show what I mean...

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I think this method would be kinder to the teeth on the gear and provide enough drive to do your cutting, as long as you take light cuts.

Brian

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I just realized that the above post could be misunderstood to use the wood lathe to do the turning and cutting of the shaft. Just to bore the wooden part, of course... :)
 
That sure would help make things easier but I hate to say that I sold that lathe to help finance my new hobby metal turning and repair:) ha.This is so much more expensive even after buying cheaper tools and tooling.But no regrats,happy camper.Pics coming today I hope----kroll
 
Good afternoon guys,well I though that I would pass along todays success story but won't bore you with my failures last couple afternoons.Repairing my oil leak on the Colchester lathe is a project for me cause I never really had to turn something to fit another part.As I was holding this simple ring looking at it,it took up I would say 9" of round stock.Its only maybe 3/4 thick which also had alot of hrs into making it but I have to say that at this moment I'm happy cause it fit.Which also puts me closer to finishing up on the lathe.This ring is made for holding an oil seal that was removed yrs ago and the opening increase to except a bearing that leak the oil for the headstock.I still have a ways to go,waiting on another bronze bushing and thanks to Brian and others giving me information on how to turn the shaft so that it is concentric.So step #1 is done,moving on to step#2 which is the shaft just for turning a clean up making sure all is perfect.Sorry for the pics and in no order.Thanks guys for responding to my help wanted ad---kroll
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All I need to do now is use the parting tool which makes me nervous
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Oil seal,checking the fit
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This is what the ring/seal will fit in
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Ring installed which has a shoulder for the oil seal to rest against which plan to add couple drops of loctite
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Step #1 I say is complete,thanks for the help
 
Well done Carroll ... :applause 2:

That looks right professional. It's real satisfying to make something that fits just right. Most of us here, me included, don't do this for a living, nor are we trained in machining, so it always takes us a surprising amount of time to produce a quality part. I just looked at your pics again... nice fit... :)

Brian
 
Very nice looking, I guess you have secured it with Loctite or similar, you could drill and tap a couple of holes directly in the intersection line, put bolts in the holes with Loctite, and remove what is sticking out with a hacksaw and file.
 
Good morning guys,yes sir Holt that is a good ideal.I've order some green 603 loctitle so that I can slide the bushing down into the housing and put the 603 maybe the last 1/2 of the bushing.And put alittle loctite on the ring to hold it in maybe just a drop or two for the oil seal.Hope all this works----kroll
 
The seal shouldn't normally need any additional locking. Good idea on the rest.
 
Thanks guys,I have learned so much just doing this oil seal.My order come in today,the 603 loctite and two different bronze bushings.Why two cause I did not know which one would be better,so I though I would ask ya'll.Here couple links to each one http://www.mcmaster.com/#6391k452/=11qnnwr and http://www.mcmaster.com/#2868t213/=11qnpjv
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The odd one has alittle more steel in it and can handle more of a load(belts) but I don't know if over time it will wear out the shaft,so maybe should go with the bronze one
 
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you'll be fine either way you go as long as they get lubrication.
nice work!:grin:
 
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