Oil Seal For The Colchester

Hi Kroll. In my thread about the harmonic vibration in my lathe i have the exact same problem with oil leak on the input shaft and a failed bushing on the pulley end of the shaft.
I ended up buying 2 sets of needle rollers with the press fit inner race. I machined out the housing to take the bigger OD of the outer race and had to turn the shaft down for the inner race slightly. The sleeves get over the hardened shaft issue, and from memory it was very soft for a shaft any way. I speedy sleeved it for the seal.

Come out very smooth running. After lots of searching for equivalent parts it was easier to just make modern bearings fit.

I can see it i can find the bearing numbers, although yours is a smaller machine, there are so many differences among the same models over the years i dont think any parts manual is accurate.
 
In my younger life I made bearing seals for almost every major bearing manufacturer in the world. That seal looks like one we made by the hundreds of thousands while I was there. Many times I made one off seals, the steel insert, the mold cavity and molded it up, sometimes for friends and many times as a demo as to what the customer wanted. Unfortunately the shop fell victim to the exodus of manufacturing in my State as well as our country or I'd have given them a call to see what they had kicking around.
 
Thanks for the offer Tommy or Bob(LOL),Ben I wish I had the skills to do mine the way you did yours but I am a beginner,my little Atlas is not dead on.How did you chuck up your shaft to turn it down,I could not figure out how to get the gear off but I do see a threaded hole on that end of the shaft.I chuck my shaft up with the gear in place using a 4 jaw chuck and got it pretty dang close but not perfect.I believe it has to be perfect for it to line up with the bearing that's next to the snap ring.Anyway I did bore out the bushing to fit the shaft and the OD of the bushing will fit the housing for the shaft.I need to make a ring to fit an oil seal which at one time it was bored out for that bearing,what do you think about this oil seal? http://www.mcmaster.com/#1199n17/=11o2jj6 If you had some pics would love to see them,but I got a pretty good picture of what you did.I wish I could figure out how to get that gear off just so I could chuck it up better.Thanks guys for posting---kroll
Disregard that oil seal its over 2"OD going to the 40mm
 
Hello Carroll :)

Maybe the gear and shaft are all one part? If you can't get the gear off to turn down the shaft, maybe there's a way for you to turn it between centers. For the center at the headstock end, just use your 3-jaw chuck and cut a 60° taper on a piece of cold rolled. Now this center will be running true. The threaded hole will be your center hole. Next devise a way of making a makeshift "dog" that will power the shaft from the gear against one of the chuck jaws, with protection for the teeth, of course. If your tailstock is accurately set side to side, you should have the shaft running very true.

Brian
 
Well I be,dang that is awesome.That is perfect and dead on,I had to read it a few times before I understand it but now I think I do_Once I get started it will become clear,but may have a question along the way.
 
Carroll, I am also assuming that there is an existing center hole in the shaft, opposite the threaded hole.
 
Brian there is,and I went through my tailstock adjusting it to get it as perfect as possible.I am so excited again thanks to your ideal on how to get my shaft lined up for turning the OD.I'm slow but going to post some pics as I go.This is kinda a first for me having to turn something that has to fit.All smiles here :)
 
Glad to hear it. I assume that you understand that even if your 3-jaw chuck is not concentric, once you turn a 60° point on a piece of round stock, that point will be perfectly concentric to the headstock of the lathe. Adjust your compound to make the 60° point on the stock. You cannot remove the piece from the lathe (chuck) until you are done turning to size, or you will lose some of the accuracy of the set-up. If you are not certain that you will be able to control your cuts to a point that you might remove too much material on your final cut, leave a half thou or so and use strips of fine emery cloth to get the final size and finish. Be very careful using the sandpaper, though. Lots of guys have been severely injured by improper use of sandpaper to polish. I can't stress that enough....:eek 2:

Brian
 
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Good morning,well till you explain it I did not.But I do now so I was worrying over that cause I kinda knew that my chuck is not concentric.I am so glad that you posted this,I had do ideal how to handle that which trying to use my 4 jaw chuck showed that (LOL).What I am repairing I feel it needs to be dead on so that the vibration is keep to as low as possible.I like your ideal of leaving 1/2thou cause I find that my skills just are not there to control to a final finish.So the sandpaper is what I will use,I have use sandpaper on my wood lathe so those type of possible problems are on my mind.Going to take me awhile to over come this,I've order extra bushings and couple oil seals.Which going to turn this into a project by itself which is a major project for me.
 
Color the shaft with magic marker between the two jaws under the manf. badge on the chuckface. This will enable you to put the shaft back in the same position IF you take it out for any reason.
 
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