No fun turning a 22mm deep socket

I'm a stone's throw away in South Morro Hills. Dave, my neighbor behind me moved in a little over a year ago, and he was from Vista.
Ah! Good spot !! Close to the harbor too! We go there ever weekend :encourage:
 
My records show I bought new rear wheels for my 2002 Kubota B7500 in 2015 with 700 hrs on it as the wheel around the valve stems was badly rusted from the calcium chloride fill. Yes I had inner tubes, rusted anyway.
To be fair I live in a wet climate, but Mr. Orange is kept in a dry barn when not in use.
At the time the dealer nearest me did not fill tires. They told me they take them to a tire store, that’s what I did.
I used beet juice this time.
Also the b7500 (same tractor as MMCMD has, but couple yrs older) has rear hubs that are adjustable each for 3” width. 6” total. I leave at widest, as I also have hilly property.
For reference my manual states to always have a seat belt on if the ROPS is up.
If the ROPS is folded down, or no ROPS, do not wear the seat belt.
As always YMMV. Cheers
We've got a JD tractor with calcium-filled tires here in western Oregon and rust is definitely an issue due to the almost-constant humidity in the winter. I had to replace the valve-stem guts to keep air (and calcium solution) from leaking out through the valves. Valve stem caps with seals are a good backup. It appears that garden-variety Schrader valve-stem parts aren't all that resistant to corrosion, so a backup is a good idea.

I always rotate the tires so the valve stem is on top before I check the tire pressure, and briefly depress the valve to blow CaCl2 out of the valve -- otherwise some solution can find its way into the pressure tester and corrode it. Probably nothing new to anyone who owns a tractor with calcium-filled tires....
 
Holy HELL ! With a grader box on the back yet ? I can pull the rear wheels out 3 " but it put's out past 48" . My rear tires are filled , and I can add weights on the ass end , but she still wasn't up to a Johnson bandsaw I tried to lift . :rolleyes: We won't talk about the post hole digger .........................:big grin:

Is/was that a BX , B or and L series ? I would like to move up to a 40 HP L model one day if I get up north . But regardless , that's a downed Bota , which I hate to see .
Put them on yesterday. And I found the rear tires are loaded, but maybe only 25% or so. E8E87579-5AC5-4A03-AE1A-194A0D02EAC9.jpeg6227B763-CF2E-4466-B30A-138F5699301A.jpeg
 
These are shots of Mr. Orange. 2002 B7500.
This was Kubota option for wheel spacing for my B. Guess they no longer uses this hub widening option? Liability? Dunno.
Do your lug bolts go through the actual hub, then the spacer & wheel?
I have read BORA spacers are best quality. Although expensive, they are good for peace of mind & anti-capsize insurance.
Have mine set as wide as it will go with standard Kubota options, R tires 52” outside to outside.
 

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I have a little B7100 HST which also has the sliding hexagonal rear axle/ wheel setup. My tires are filled with water and antifreeze and have been like that for more than 25 years.
I like the QC hitch. I wonder if I could get one for mine. I like the idea!
 
The QC hitch is a good idea but doesn't work all that well. The top hook won't line up to some implements, the width has to be correct, and the top member hits the drive shaft on some things. Have one but quit using it.

Greg
 
The QC hitch is a good idea but doesn't work all that well. The top hook won't line up to some implements, the width has to be correct, and the top member hits the drive shaft on some things. Have one but quit using it.

Greg
They're only good if they work with all your attachments, otherwise you lose the "quick" when you need to keep taking the Qhitch off and on along with the implement
 
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