New [to me] 13" x 5" south bend

I have. Similar 13" with D1-4. You don't need a collet chuck. There is an 5C adapter just like your 10L that fits in the spindle. It is smaller in Outside dia than the one for threaded spindle. It is smaller to fit inside the d1-4 spindle nose protecter (doughnut). The adapter for the threaded spindle will work just fine but will not allow the spindle nose protector to be used
 
Nice score,a person can spend a life time waiting for a deal then life will pass him by still waiting.Money well spent and when your done with it you will make a profit when you sell it,that lathe I think is probably the most popular lathe there is.Well on my list it is---kroll
 
Something I noticed on the spindle pulley is the bushing closest to the bull gear was in the poorest shape. Looking at this it appears as though that bushing would get a lot less grease compared to the other 2.For those unfamiliar with the 13" , the pulley has 3 bushings with 2 next to each other at the chuck end of the spindle. These bushings are thin so not sure a small groove should/could be added to help grease get to the end bushing. Anyone else address this previously? I think the bushing is completly useable with no noticable play but a tad ugly. Ski
 
Answered your pm but just in case go to vbelt supply and look for a 655K10 K Series Poly V Belt that's the one you need over lap it about 4". just click on the belt in this post, There on sale fot 17 and some change.

Paul
 
I cleaned shop a few months ago and I put 2 switch's on ebay, I was surprised at how much they sold for. So I can't help you there.

Paul
 
Re: New [to me] 13" x 5" south bend

wlane said:
I have. Similar 13" with D1-4. You don't need a collet chuck. There is an 5C adapter just like your 10L that fits in the spindle. It is smaller in Outside dia than the one for threaded spindle. It is smaller to fit inside the d1-4 spindle nose protecter (doughnut). The adapter for the threaded spindle will work just fine but will not allow the spindle nose protector to be used
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture? Thanks for the info though.

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Old Iron said:
I cleaned shop a few months ago and I put 2 switch's on ebay, I was surprised at how much they sold for. So I can't help you there.

Paul
Click to expand...

I noticed the high prices! I will keep looking. It has a single phase 1 1/2 hp marathon motor on it [220]. I also have the 3 phase motor. Before I pitch high dollars for a drum switch I'll consider a VFD. If anyone has a drum switch they no longer need, let me know. I have a good gear to replace the damaged one plus have all parts needed except for some gits cups.
Working on paint prep.
 
I have quite a lot of the lathe tore down and ready for paint.Since my cousin started a powder coat biz I have taken all covers,panels,chip tray right side leg/leveling assembly,base door assembly.Items that are not being done are any with a way surface or babbit material,cross,compound headstock ect... The bed and motor cabinet will be sanded and rolled/ brushed. Color is Sherwin Williams machine tower gray which is matched to their powder. I am sure it wont be perfect match but it will look good and will be tough and last.Not going crazy for a show car finish either so some pits will be filled and "texture" left to enjoy! I welded up and ground the extra holes in the chip pan from the switch box. Moving it since I have a Grandson with curious fingers.About 2. weeks until powder coat is done so going to get the bed,headstock and base done and I am half way there now. Still have to find a single phase drum switch. I'd do a VFD since I have the 2hp 3 phase motor but no extra mula now. All other bad or missing parts accounted for.Wife announced today she wants a new kitchen floor and counter tops. Those women and their toys! Ski
 
Sounds like your making some good progress,love to see pics of your lathe when you get it back from your brother.
 
Just a quick update. I am still cleaning and scrubbing but hope to be sanding by next weekend. Paint is matched. I used a Standard RAL color powder coat called mouse gray. Reason is it is easy to match at Sherwin Williams. I left them a panel so they can fine tune the paint match. I have posted a couple pics of my progress to include one panel that is powder coated. everything is getting powder coated except base, bed, gear box, apron, headstock, left side gear cover. I am considering doing the gear box and apron though. Powder coat process brings part slowly to 350 in oven to help get any soaked in crap out then cooled naturally then powder is applied and reheated to 350 for 20 or 30 minutes and cooled again. Has anyone had a gearbox or apron powder coated? Not sure if there is any risk in something twisting out of shape. Unless someone has done this with no problems, I will not risk it. Ski

South Bend 13 rebuild 003.JPG South Bend 13 rebuild 002.JPG South Bend 13 rebuild 004.JPG
 
Updated: New [to me] 13" x 5" south bend

Hello everyone, I have gotten a few things done on the lathe as far as painting goes. All the non machined parts are powder coated. I hope to have the bed and base back together and fully painted soon unless grandkids invade [hopefully!]. Here are a few pics of the progress including one of the powder coated leg and chip pan. Note that the paint match is not "perfect" but is only a slight difference. I can see it so I'm sure others will too. I chose not to spray paint and instead roll and brush the machines although I add a little additive [penetrol] to lessen brush/roll marks. Ski

13 south Bend plus Vet. Marker 009.JPG 13 south Bend plus Vet. Marker 008.JPG 13 south Bend plus Vet. Marker 010.JPG
 
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