New Clausing 6913 - Gear box engagement lever fixed!!!!

Hector,

You are a H-M Supporter (or Premium Member) so you may list it for free in the BUYING & SELLING area at the bottom of the Home Page. Put it in Complete Machines.
 
wa5cab said:
Hector,

You are a H-M Supporter (or Premium Member) so you may list it for free in the BUYING & SELLING area at the bottom of the Home Page. Put it in Complete Machines.
Click to expand...

Woohoo!!!! Sweet!!! Thank you. I will get in touch with the lead I have and see if he wants anything(hopefully everything but I'm not expecting that) If I have anything left I'll put it up for sale!!!
 
This lathe came with a Jacobs "6A 33Taper cap0-1/2" chuck. It doesn't have a key for it. My 3950 has a key that fits but I want to purchase another one as the 3950 is possibly going down the road. Anyone know what thumb chuck key I need to order?

Got an oil leak on the carriage gearbox????(Where the feed screw and cross slides are engaged) I haven't torn it apart but I'm wondering if there are seals in it that need replaced? It looks almost like its leaking around the feed screw. Looked in the manual but didn't see any seals. I did change al the gearbox oils in this machine recently and SHOULD be close to the correct level(glass level indicators are hard to see through though)Any ideas or thoughts? Do these machines use bushings with tight tolerances that prevents oil leaking?
 
According to one of their catalogs, the Jacobs 6A chuck uses a Jacobs K3 key.

A bushing that is tight enough not to leak oil is at least a light press fit on the shaft running in it. Which is to say 'way too tight. If there is no seal present, then either the oil level is too high (which will eventually cure itself :tranquility: or that shaft always leaks oil.
 
I have another question. The 8 in(measures 8.25) diameter buck chuck on this lathe has what I believe to be called tongue and groove adapters for it. Correct if wrong please. What I would like to know if anyone makes them and where to maybe find a set but I'd like to get some different "Jaws" to bolt on the T&G that can go smaller than 3/4 in diameter(that's about the smallest shaft that can be installed in the chuck without removing it and using collets)

Something similar to these maybe but the stepped jaws would be better in my opinion? Pictures robbed from EBAY.

jaws.jpg

jaws1.jpg


Or, not that I have the skill but would give it a try, maybe make a set myself? If so what kid on steel should be used. I've seen you guys talk about all kinds of numbers of different metals, which is foreign to me, and don't what would be best to use to do it with. I mainly use smaller shafts to fab stuff with around here but have done some 5 inch or so diameter transmission mods for a buddy once in a while. Anybody have a diagram with specs on such a thing? Feel free to tell me to not waste my time and order a set too. Probably over my head skill wise but it wouldn't be the first time I did something out of my league!! :) Hope all this makes sense. Thanks!
 
Those are called "American Standard" chuck jaws, and the are somewhat standardized, so you might find replacements out there.
I am not sure if you can get them to fit smaller diameters or not.
 
The only jaws that work for sure are the ones that come with the chuck. If trying to replace just the jaws, it’s a crap shoot if they fit correctly and have decent concentricity. After the time, money and gamble of working? Just for replacing the jaws to hold smaller stuff. Maybe the cost of a smaller chuck is appropriate? If all you want are the T&G jaw top part. Then, I would make them to fit the jaws that you have. Steel is good. Maybe just try aluminum for now and see how it all works out. Aluminum will hold up for a hobbyist. Easy to machine. And you can get some fun out of it…Dave
 
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CH's first sentence is correct for self-centering (almost all 3-jaw and a few 4-jaw) solid-jaw chucks. But not for at least most 3-jaw with 2-piece jaws. There are apparently two standards, American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and something roughly equivalent but made to metric dimensions. The jaw dimensions vary according to the chuck diameter (and 8.25" actual diameter appears to be standard on 8" chucks). So you only need to confirm that you chuck has American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and look for those to fit an 8" chuck. For some strange reason, there is no mention of them in Machinery's Handbook. But they appear to come in several nose shapes. Prices are all over the map. But I wouldn't buy the cheapest that I could find.

You never posted a photo of your chuck so I don't know why its minimum diameter for clamping is about 1".

EDIT: If you do buy a set similar to those in your second photo, don't forget to re-center the chuck after you install them.
 
chips&more said:
The only jaws that work for sure are the ones that come with the chuck. If trying to replace just the jaws, it’s a crap shoot if they fit correctly and have decent concentricity. After the time, money and gamble of working? Just for replacing the jaws to hold smaller stuff. Maybe the cost of a smaller chuck is appropriate? If all you want are the T&G jaw top part. Then, I would make them to fit the jaws that you have. Steel is good. Maybe just try aluminum for now and see how it all works out. Aluminum will hold up for a hobbyist. Easy to machine. And you can get some fun out of it…Dave
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Going to try aluminum. I like that idea. I just want the bolt on "jaws" Not wanting to replace the ones that actually engage the tightening mechanism(whatever its called) Price on a smaller chuck is an option but I thought for what little I do with this machine if the bolt on "Jaws" would grab smaller diameters it may save me a little hassle changing the chuck frequently is all. I also want the outer diameter of the jaws to be able to grab larger diameter objects possibly.
 
wa5cab said:
CH's first sentence is correct for self-centering (almost all 3-jaw and a few 4-jaw) solid-jaw chucks. But not for at least most 3-jaw with 2-piece jaws. There are apparently two standards, American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and something roughly equivalent but made to metric dimensions. The jaw dimensions vary according to the chuck diameter (and 8.25" actual diameter appears to be standard on 8" chucks). So you only need to confirm that you chuck has American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and look for those to fit an 8" chuck. For some strange reason, there is no mention of them in Machinery's Handbook. But they appear to come in several nose shapes. Prices are all over the map. But I wouldn't buy the cheapest that I could find.

You never posted a photo of your chuck so I don't know why its minimum diameter for clamping is about 1".

EDIT: If you do buy a set similar to those in your second photo, don't forget to re-center the chuck after you install them.
Click to expand...

I should have known that no one knows my setup since they are not here. I apologize for that. Here is a picture of it. I should have also mentioned its a 6 jaw chuck. I figured that a quantity of 3 purchased, or made myself, "jaws" would be sufficient for what I usually do with it. Thoughts on that? I can only imagine to get a point that extends to the center for smaller projects is going to be a little confusing for me and difficult(but i'm going to try) I know what I'd like it to look like, but to put that into really close tolerance will probably be hard for me to accomplish with my level of experience.
Its a buck chuck if that's help with determining whether it is "American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws" I'm not sure how to verify that. Measurements maybe???




IMG_20170720_135701814.jpg
 
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