Need help picking out a toolholder for cutting threads

[WobblyHand]

to be the contrarian, I haven't had any issues with chipping carbide threading inserts at low speeds. I cut a 1-1/2"-8 thread at ~30rpm and it gave a lovely finish. Carbide is less tolerant of screw ups, so if you make a habit of running into the end of your thread relief then maybe they're not for you, but I've gone through maybe 2 inserts since I started using them 6 or 7 years ago. I find I get better finishes with them, especially in mild steel, than I ever did with HSS or stellite.

With care, all of these tools will give satisfactory results. I use carbide for turning as well as HSS. It's just another option for people. If I want to just slice of a hair's width off something it's always HSS. Carbide can't do that, to my knowledge. Anyways, I'm pleased with my Aloris AXA-8, because it's beefy for it's class, and I get consistent good results.

 

[mmcmdl]

Think I got a P4 from you a while back. Works great.

You don't remember who wanted the rest of 'em do you ?

 

[WobblyHand]

You don't remember who wanted the rest of 'em do you ?

Sorry, I don't. As a card carrying member of the CRS club, err, umm, I don't remember who else might have expressed interest. I do remember that you gave me a decent deal on the P4. So anyone who needs blades - go see @mmcmdl

Wandering back to the thread, (tool holder for cutting threads,) I can't ever imagine I'd wear these 3 Aloris blades out. Even the 2 used blades I have are perfectly usable as is.

 

[mmcmdl]

As a card carrying member of the CRS club, err, umm, I don't remember who else might have expressed interest.

I think quite a few of us on here carry these cards !

 

[ChazzC]

Curious, what is the difference between the two inserts it comes with? I am not up on the codes/lingo of the inserts.

TN = Neutral; TP = Positive (I had to look them up, too). Positive for ID?

 

[JeepsAndGuns]

Not a very bad price on the ebay link. Wonder which blade it comes with?
I also see all the different blades they have available (p4,p6,, etc..)
What is the different in profile in them? It said something like P6, 6 or more threads, p10, 10 or more threads. But 10 is the highest it goes.
How much of a difference is there between the lowest number and the highest number?

 

[mmcmdl]

P4 is for course threads and it works its way down to 10 . Profile is the same 60 degrees . The difference is the thickness of the blade . For a P4 , you would have maybe 1/8" from the tip to the left side . For a P10 , this may only be .060 . A lot depends on what undercut you need and of course pitch of the thread .

 

[mmcmdl]

All the threads I plan on cutting are standard US/imperial threads, right hand. 1/2-28, 5/8-24 are the two major ones I want to do, but also 13/16-16 may be on the roster.

Looks like you're going to be threading barrels . I'm going to post a pick here in a couple minutes of what I had to make as an apprentice . I'll say that carbide inserts are great with CNCs because they are easy to replace and offsets rarely change . Manual lathes like HSS unless you have a large rigid machine and are comfortable threading up to a shoulder . These threads you stated would require a very small tool . I've owned all the Aloris blades and holders over the years as well as every insert tool ever made most likely . My go to tool will always be this to make what I need .

This will grind 60 degree and Acme tools with all clearances needed on a surface grinder . Up to a 5/8 shank tool . Lot of compound angles going on and we had to figure them out years ago . I couldn't today , thats for sure .

 

[WobblyHand]

Not a very bad price on the ebay link. Wonder which blade it comes with?
I also see all the different blades they have available (p4,p6,, etc..)
What is the different in profile in them? It said something like P6, 6 or more threads, p10, 10 or more threads. But 10 is the highest it goes.
How much of a difference is there between the lowest number and the highest number?

All standard 60 degrees, but vary in width. Pretty tough to thread a fine thread to a shoulder with a P4, but the tools cut the same. The P4 is wider simply due to the deeper required thread depth for 4 TPI. I have used the P10 blade up to 40 TPI, 28 and 32 are well within the tool's capabilities. I'd use the narrowest blade that works simply for the ability to get closer to the shoulder. Roughly speaking the P10 is about 0.1" wide, vs the P4 which is roughly 0.25" wide.

 

[BGHansen]

Sorry, not meaning to hijack the thread but - That blade is HUGE - what is the purpose of that?

Pretty sure someone else mentioned it, but the profile is the same down the length of the blade. It's sharpened by dusting the top edge, then readjust height. Overkill in length? Probably, I can't imagine doing enough single-point threading in 5 lifetimes to use up the blade.

My Clausing 5418 lathe came with a lantern-style tool holder and this box of Armstrong tools. There are a couple of No. 50 threading tool holders on the left side of the box. These should be sharpened the same way; dust off the top surface, rotate the blade and tightened the clamp screw at the back. The Clausing came out of a high school shop (where my dad taught); he told me how to sharpen the blades though both of mine have been dusted on the sides.

Bruce