Need help picking out a toolholder for cutting threads

Possibly, the main reason people prefer Carbide is that they do not know feeds and speeds and they can pretty much run it as fast as they can, not worrying about tool life, work hardening and ……. Crashes, (until they happen). It takes 10 Atta-boys to wipe out one awe-sh*t. On most smaller, hobby type machines, a quality HSS Tool will work great. Even when I ran production on 10EE lathes, we pretty much exclusively, used hand ground HSS tool bits for threading operations. My SB9’s do not give a long life to carbide insert tools. However, my 100+ year old 16” lathe does fine, (a lot more rigid). Most of the inserts that I like cost more than $10 each. I still have most of my HSS tools that I ground more than 30 years ago.
 
Ischgl99 said:
Carbide inserts are best at higher speeds and at slow speeds chip easily, threading is done at slow speeds, so HSS would be the better choice. You can use carbide, many of us do, just be aware you need to be a lot more careful to avoid chipping.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was not aware of the issue of chipping at slow speeds.
I will not be doing anything fast, especially threading. No need to thread at warp speed, not doing production runs of anything,
So far, all I have used is carbide inserts for turning and have never really had a problem. Sure I have worn out/chipped a few, but never had a problem with them.
 
JeepsAndGuns said:
Thanks. I was not aware of the issue of chipping at slow speeds.
I will not be doing anything fast, especially threading. No need to thread at warp speed, not doing production runs of anything,
So far, all I have used is carbide inserts for turning and have never really had a problem. Sure I have worn out/chipped a few, but never had a problem with them.
Click to expand...
I use carbide inserts for turning almost exclusively, and they work really well, but a threading insert is different and has a weak point that is easy to chip. With manual machines, most of us don’t have the reflexes to thread very fast, so the main advantages to carbide are lost, and HSS is in its happy place at those speeds.

JeepsAndGuns said:
Curious, what is the difference between the two inserts it comes with? I am not up on the codes/lingo of the inserts.
Click to expand...
I have that toolholder and inserts, the flat top insert is for steel, and the angled top is for nonferrous I believe. I have used them both ways and haven’t seen much of a difference, but I don’t push things either. The AR Warner toolholder is kind of expensive for what it is, so you should be able to find something considerably cheaper that will work with those inserts. You can even get the inserts at McMaster-Carr, so if you are already ordering project supplies from them, you can add the inserts and avoid a separate shipping charge from somewhere else. The back end of that is for internal threads, but the minimum bore is something like 1.5”, so not that useful for most applications.

As I mentioned above, I recommend Mesa Tools if you decide to go with the on edge type, good tools at good prices. My gooseneck tool came with an insert, and then you can buy just the AR Warner inserts elsewhere if you wanted to try HSS inserts. Mine are 10 years old and still cut like new, so one of each type like in the Warner kit is probably all you need.
 
+1 on the Aloris HSS threading tool. I use the carbide insert ones and the Aloris, tend to go to the Aloris. I bought mine (BXA size) new off eBay for $125 around 5 years ago. They're probably closer to $150+ now. I bought the carbide insert ones for under $25 including 10 inserts. Yeah, the tips can chip, but the inserts are cheap. It depends on your budget and if you don't mind a little potential downtime having to replace the carbide inserts (though with care they do hold up).

Bruce


20200413_150018.jpg
20200413_145446.jpg


In the more than you wanted to know category, my impression was the tip of the carbide insert would have a slight side relief angle molded in as this is how I was taught to grind HSS threading (and turning) tools.


HSS RH-thread external tool grind
1691332677773.png
1691332940002.png

Carbide insert RH and LH thread tools set face to face on a layout plate. The cutting edges appear to be dead-on straight up/down; no side relief angle. Maybe accounts for some of the chipping issue?
20181220_090118.jpg

RH/LH insert tools on a plate with a square; looks to have no side relief
20181220_090046.jpg
 
Ultradog MN said:
Get yourself a fish tail try grinding one.
It really ain't that hard.
Click to expand...
Same here. I get better threads with HSS. I've got inserted carbide tools, don't use them anymore. My first attempts at grinding HSS threading cutters weren't great but worked. With practice it isn't all that hard! Also easy to touch up. I use Joe Pie's method of running the tool upside down and threading from the shoulder out. It allows starting at an exact point W/O any stress.
 
BGHansen said:
RH/LH insert tools on a plate with a square; looks to have no side relief
Click to expand...
There does appear to be some side relief, but no where near what is called out when grinding a HSS bit. I see maybe ½º to 1º of side relief. I guess that the inserts would be okay for larger diameter and higher TPI stuff, but the smaller diameter and lower TPI stuff may require a re-look.
 
BGHansen said:
+1 on the Aloris HSS threading tool. I use the carbide insert ones and the Aloris, tend to go to the Aloris. I bought mine (BXA size) new off eBay for $125 around 5 years ago. They're probably closer to $150+ now. I bought the carbide insert ones for under $25 including 10 inserts. Yeah, the tips can chip, but the inserts are cheap. It depends on your budget and if you don't mind a little potential downtime having to replace the carbide inserts (though with care they do hold up).

Bruce


View attachment 456166
View attachment 456165
Click to expand...
Sorry, not meaning to hijack the thread but - That blade is HUGE - what is the purpose of that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top