My Stuck Chuck Dilemma

[Splat]

It's off! hew:

I first placed a small piece of wood between one of the chuck jaws and the bed to stop the chuck from rotating when using the wrench to turn the spindle. To make the wrench I took an oak 2x4 I had and drilled a hole for the spindle and two 1/2" holes perpendicular to the spindle hole. I ran 1/2"x4" bolts thru the small holes. Voila!, the Splatwrench was born!
The spindle coming out the back of the headstock (far left) goes into the hole in the Splatwrench, then tighten up the bolts. With a 3/4" turn and some help from my Dad up in Heaven she broke loose. From there on I was able to loosen it by hand.

The spindle threads were pretty clean. Just a hint of crud. The chuck threads were pretty good but up towards the inner end of the threads there was a lot of crud. I sprayed both the spindle and chuck threads with PB Blaster before taking these shots:




Here's the estimable Splatwrench :biggrin::



No broken back gear teeth, no heat, or hammering anything. Just a lot of PB Blaster and the Splatwrench! Thanks for stickin with me. You guys really do rock! :drink2:

 

[FarFar]

Hello Splat

Always fond of non violent solutions that work.
Can we have a picture of Splatwrench and chuck on lathe?
Migth save some backgears in future.

Regards

Farfar

 

[burnrider]

Good Work

 

[jocat54]

PB Blaster is some good stuff--glad it worked for you.

 

[SE18]

I remove chucks with back gear engaged. If it requires any type of force, I use strap wrench method. I like some of your other ideas. I've got ATF & acetone ready but never had to use it...yet

worst thing I had was a stuck dog plate after heavy interrupted cuts. Dog plates have less surface area to grip than the chucks

Wish SB didn't use screw on chucks. But nothing is perfect.

Dave

 

[Splat]

To elaborate on how this works: Lay a board right under the chuck to cover and protect the bedways, then spin the chuck so there's a jaw about 3 o'clock and put a piece of 2x4 there between the jaw and the wood covering the bedways. Then after you get the Splatwrench© onto the back of the spindle and tighten up the bolts on it you will be pulling up (standing in front of lathe) on the Splatwrench©. The only thing to watch is if you have a lever collet closer assembly then you should not clamp onto the area on the spindle where the collet closer engages.


Dave, I hope you don't break any teeth or shear your pin doing it but sure it may be a little faster than the method I've outlined but the first time you break a tooth or shear that pin you'll be ready to try this method.

 

[Michaeljp86]

Good job on getting it out, my 3 jaw was stuck on my hendey when I got it. I put a long pry bar in the jaws and kept tapping it with a 3lb sledge and the vibration broke it loose.

 

[Sk8ter]

I did a video on youtube on how to remove a stuck chuck...it actually was for someone who could not get there chuck off there southbend lathe....he didnt take my advise oh well...here is the link...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHwQ5tNFBs0

IMO its not the threads that are rusty or have swarf or whatever in them its the filet or register the the back of the chuck goes against that causes these problems


Lawrence

 

[Zengineer]

Didn't see what was quite possibly the easiest way of doing this mentioned, if I missed it I apologise.

Take a long piece of heavy steel bar stock, and clamp it in the chuck jaws so a long lever arm is projecting out perpendicular to the spindle axis. (Which basically, is the most dangerous setup you can imagine with that piece of steel... if the machine turned on... might be a good idea to unplug the lathe first)

Take a common, run of the mill air hammer, and apply it in the correct direction to the end of the lever arm.



Chuck comes off. No sketchyness.

 

[genec]

You may want to look at Mr. Pete's videos, I believe he thinks this is caused by spinning on the chuck and letting it slam home, rather than just screwing it on. The thinking is that that chuck comes half out of the threads and causes the binding.:tiphat: