My new mill drill

Dudemanrod

Dudemanrod

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Hey guys here is some pics of my Kung Foo 30 or Dung Poo or column mill drill. I know that this not the Bridgeport or other USA machines that i would love to have but 300.00 and with the limited space I have I hope to learn on this with the help of this cool site and your guys knowledge. Now I'm going to take it all the way down a clean and paint it. The motor says 1987 so it may need some parts. Thanks to Bob and Thom for there advice. Best way to derust the table?
 

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Hey guys here is some pics of my Kung Foo 30 or Dung Poo or column mill drill. I know that this not the Bridgeport or other USA machines that i would love to have but 300.00 and with the limited space I have I hope to learn on this with the help of this cool site and your guys knowledge. Now I'm going to take it all the way down a clean and paint it. The motor says 1987 so it may need some parts. Thanks to Bob and Thom for there advice. Best way to derust the table?
 

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A good first stab would be paper towels soaked in evaporust.

If you take the table off, you can put it in an electrolysis bath ($20 charger + $4 in rebar + plastic tub or bucket + alligator clips and cable) or soak the whole thing in evaporust ($25 a gallon).
 
If the rust isn't too severe I just use some oil (olive, motor, castor, whale) a 3M blue scrubber pad and a bit of elbow grease (wax on, wax off)
Mark
 
Those are great machines for the price. PITA to change speeds though. Nice switch!

Get a set of ER25 collets and collet chuck.

After derusting, a random orbital sander used lightly will clean that table up
 
Thanks for the reply Mark i need some of those scrubbers so off to home depot and and will warm up my elbows. Good day
 
Thanks for the replies i guess i will start tearing this beast down so i can maneuver the table and base around. Im super happy with this deal i got i was milling with my craftsman 10 inch drill press if you can believe it aluminum of course and Chuck coming off and other dangerous things. So I'm going up town with this purchase. I'm hoping this will be a great learning mill and maybe go on to one more complex.
 
Welcome, Dudeman. Looks like you're from my hometown. I haven't been there in 20 years, though. I hear it's changed...

For that type of rust, I like phosphoric acid based rust removers (naval jelly, evaporust, oxpho rust) because they kill rust dead and leave a finish that will hold oil for future protection. Thin woodsman mentioned electrolosys, which you may want to look into. I use 1/3 cup of arm & hammer sodic carbonate (a.k.a. laundry booster) per gallon of warm water as electrolyte and rebar as the anode across an automotive battery charger. This is the method you use when you want rusty junk to come out looking like new parts, ready for paint and assembly.

Your mill is one of the older Taiwan-made Rong Fus. Same as what I have. With a little work, some adjustment, and the addition of a power feed and DRO, you'll have a capable machine. A good vise is a must, and proper R8 tool holders should be used, but you've got the bulk already covered by having the machine in hand already. Keep posting as you go!
 
Sounds like you're off to a great start !
I think you did well at that price for a Taiwan built unit. it will be "cheap" education and if it turns out to be in reasonable mechanical condition can turn out some pretty good stuff. Congratulations !
 
First, welcome to HM!

Second, you have a good benchtop mill and you don't need to make excuses for it. The head alone weighs more than many mini-mills and it is capable of very good work.

I own an RF-31 which, as far as we can all tell, is the same as your RF-30. Yours is Taiwan-made so it is built to a higher quality than the more contemporary Chinese clones. Mine was in far better shape than yours but I took it completely apart anyway and de-rusted it and painted most of it. The parts breakdown is sufficient to allow for a complete tear down and reassembly.

I used electrolysis to de-rust everything - the table, base and anything else that had any rust on it other than the column and head. The column cleans up nicely with some WD-40 and gray Scotchbrite (synthetic OOO steel wool equivalent). If you need to clean up the finish on the table, take a sheet of gray Scotchbrite and use a piece of plywood to move it around manually. Use WD-40 and it will shine up the table without taking any metal off. If there are dings or high spots, use a medium to fine India stone to knock them down.

For my mill, changing the bearings in the quill and drive sleeve made a big difference in run out. I now have less than 0.0001" TIR at the spindle, which is better than most mills out there. Your quill is a full 3" in diameter and runs in a pretty accurate hole in the head. Once locked down for work, it is quite a capable mill.

Looks like it just needs some TLC. Ask questions and the guys will help you get it up and running.
 
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