My back hurts(knee mill height)

Well I was able to get a table level, and adjust tool stick outs to not have to move the knee. I still had to change glasses, and bend over to center the wobbler in the punch mark, but it's way better than what I was doing. This is all for a good friend, and done no charge. If I have to do anything similar, how would this get charged out, and how much? So much per hole? I'm too slow for an hourly rate @ 64 holes. :)

 
I raised mine about 8" and love it. I laminated together 2"x 8"'s and made it so I can move the mill around with a pallet jack if I ever need to. At 6' 3" I love the extra height and have not had a problem reaching the draw bar.
 
I have a bead on 6 x 6 square tubing, and I have 3 x 6 oak planks, I'm thinking about sticking them together.
 
I raised my mill used a couple 2”square 1/4” wall tubes with heavy duty leveling pads. Ran them left to right, one in front one in back. The base on BP is 24” wide so I cut the tubes to 28” for 2” stick out each side. Pretty sure H&W machine works sells something similar as a kit for a reasonable price. They use CRS flat bar.
I wanted to use the 3/4 x 2” CRS bars but had the tubing on hand.
819fb3884d0345621193d19450fa98f5.jpg
 
I'm also 6'2, so I sympathize. I work at my Bridgeport sat on a saddle stool and use ER collets. I hate fussing with the drawbar and swapping R8s, it's an awful workflow IMHO. They take too much Z move to swap too, compared to ER32, which can be rolled into the holder with barely any clearance.
 
jwmay said:
Well... aside from when I see one on a plane. That has got to be hell. Lol
Click to expand...
It's either an exit row or bulkhead seat for me. Otherwise the hassle for me and the person sitting ahead of me exceeds anything resembling reasonable. And thank goodness I don't fly often at all.

My back hurts just thinking about air travel...
 
new casters for some car dollies? Here's what I'd do in the same situation. Work out the bolt pattern for the new casters and prick punch the first hole. Center drill on dimple, zero dials/ DRO for both axes. Drill hole, move one axis, drill next and so on (easier with DRO, if not go back to first hole before changing axis). Swap out drill for countersink, repeat. Swap out countersink for tap, power tap. Done. If you have the travels then you can even do all of the holes on one dolly at a time. For the holes on a slope, find a centercutting endmill closest to the tap drill size you want and use that, possibly for all of the holes if it saves a tool change. That would take perhaps 30-45min per dolly, maybe less for the later ones as you memorise the numbers. Moneywise, that depends on what you'd want to charge in the first place. Based on my own "shop rate" (ha, charged once!) of $25/h, that'd be $80-100 for a set of 4 dollies.

As for the height thing, I feel for you. I'm 6ft2, so everything in my shop is set up accordingly - bench height, mill etc. For my mill I made a moveable base out of 2x2x3/16" steel tubing (I think) and 1/4" plate, with casters and feet to jack the casters off the ground when in position. Raises it up about 3-3.5" which helped a great deal.
 
woodchucker said:
Braeden, aren't you young, like under 20????
And your back hurts already??? Just wait..

edit: 14 .. Put on a lifting belt, and lift with your knees.... bend zee knees...
Click to expand...
I lift with my knees and when I bend my knees they hurt too, 1 I might have lifted to many heavy things 2 I might have done too many stupid things, I think it’s number two
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top