-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)
- Thread starter alloy
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2014
- Messages
- 2,776
Hydro boost from an astro van. Using the stock PS pump on a L92 6.2 LS3 2008 engine.
I've put 2 shims in the pump bypass that's supposed to have cut the pressure down. I can put more shims in, but the steering already feels kind of heavy. Cutting the pressure down will make it worse.
I've put 2 shims in the pump bypass that's supposed to have cut the pressure down. I can put more shims in, but the steering already feels kind of heavy. Cutting the pressure down will make it worse.
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2013
- Messages
- 962
Maybe.. jack the front off the ground, run the motor and try the steering while watching the brake pedal. If your consuming pressure in the steering - does the pedal rise? I'll admit that I've never seen this one before.. But I would think there's dirt / debris in the inlet valve allowing PSI in and applying the brakes or, your right the pressure is to much for that same valve.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2014
- Messages
- 2,776
I'll try that today.
The way I have the return plumbed is I tee'd the line at the steering box and used one return line for the box and hydro boost. I see mentioned online that people have said this could be a problem. I pulled the line and separated them before temporarily to have to separate return lines and no difference. But I didn't see that the pedal was going down by itself. I'll separate them today and try it again.
If these don't work I think I'll try and cut the pressure down again using all the shims in the kit. I'm trying to do everything I can not to have to pull the hydro boost unit off. It was a real pain installing it and for me to be able to get under the dash I'll have to pull the drivers bucket seat. I just can't get under a dash anymore with the seats in.
I did pick up another hydro boost unit awhile back, if all else fails I'll try it. I planned on using it on my 55 but I an easily get another one. The wrecking yards are full of astro vans.
The way I have the return plumbed is I tee'd the line at the steering box and used one return line for the box and hydro boost. I see mentioned online that people have said this could be a problem. I pulled the line and separated them before temporarily to have to separate return lines and no difference. But I didn't see that the pedal was going down by itself. I'll separate them today and try it again.
If these don't work I think I'll try and cut the pressure down again using all the shims in the kit. I'm trying to do everything I can not to have to pull the hydro boost unit off. It was a real pain installing it and for me to be able to get under the dash I'll have to pull the drivers bucket seat. I just can't get under a dash anymore with the seats in.
I did pick up another hydro boost unit awhile back, if all else fails I'll try it. I planned on using it on my 55 but I an easily get another one. The wrecking yards are full of astro vans.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2014
- Messages
- 2,776
I want to give a big thank you to Manual Mac for welding the jam nuts on the studs I made up for my wheel studs.
We had a real good time getting to know each other and I made a new friend. He would not take a dime for the work. He did this with a broken back no less.
I owe him a favor.
We had a real good time getting to know each other and I made a new friend. He would not take a dime for the work. He did this with a broken back no less.
I owe him a favor.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2014
- Messages
- 2,776
Not sure if he's a big car guy, but has a motorcycle. And he is a machinist, and a member of the "Friendly Machinist Forum".
Nuff said.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2014
- Messages
- 2,776
Have a problem now I'm unsure of how to solve. Usually I can figure things out and come up with a solution.
The first time I started the engine I couldn't get it into gear. I thought about it and figured the clutch was stuck because it was sitting so long. It is a used clutch I picked up with the flywheel and bell housing. It looks very good, lots of meat left on the disk, no evidence of it slipping. I put it in gear with the engine off and started it and it worked fine.
So after the first test drive I couldn't get it into gear again. Did the same started it in gear and it worked. Took another test drive yesterday and the same thing. I need to take it down to get an alignment and it's a 60 mile drive round trip and I don't want to be broke down with it or damage the trans trying to get it home.
Did a lot of research and people are finding that the pilot bushings now are made in china and are too tight on the input shafts cause them to drag. So I bit the bullet and pulled the trans and clutch out. I can't see anything wrong. What I thought was the problem (pilot bushing) seems fine. I have an extra input shaft and it fits in the bushing easily. From that I can measure there is a .003 clearance and no signs of seizing or galling. In the olden days you used to be able to dial in a bell housing with the clutch pilot bushing. No way to do it with the design of the bell housing on this.
So I think it could be one (or more) of 3 things. The clutch, hydraulic release bearing, and clutch master cylinder.
The clutch (when I can get it in gear) grabs at the very top of the pedal travel. This seems to be consistent when I am able to get it into gear and drive it. So I really don't think it's the hydraulics or transmission. I've had this trans in a different car and there is no problem with it at all. Shifts great, it's just when I'm done with the test drives is when I can't get it into gear. So I do the start it in gear thing and it works again for a little while. I'm leaning towards it being the clutch. A new stock style clutch kit with flywheel kit is about $360. A hydraulic release bearing is $75. Clutch master is $70. I'd like not to have to pull the trans again and if I just replace the clutch I might have to pull it to put in a release bearing.
So I'm not sure what to do. I know your guys aren't here to help, but sometimes writing it down (so to speak on here) helps my thinking process. And it doesn't hurt to see what you guys think. I want to figure out the problem and not be just a parts changer.
So, ideas?
A quick side note: My wife is getting smarter about car stuff. (She has been around me to long) Anyway I was taking off the bell housing and hit it on something My wife asked is that the bell housing? I said yes, how did you know. She said it rang like a bell when you hit it. So now I know why its called a "bell housing"
The first time I started the engine I couldn't get it into gear. I thought about it and figured the clutch was stuck because it was sitting so long. It is a used clutch I picked up with the flywheel and bell housing. It looks very good, lots of meat left on the disk, no evidence of it slipping. I put it in gear with the engine off and started it and it worked fine.
So after the first test drive I couldn't get it into gear again. Did the same started it in gear and it worked. Took another test drive yesterday and the same thing. I need to take it down to get an alignment and it's a 60 mile drive round trip and I don't want to be broke down with it or damage the trans trying to get it home.
Did a lot of research and people are finding that the pilot bushings now are made in china and are too tight on the input shafts cause them to drag. So I bit the bullet and pulled the trans and clutch out. I can't see anything wrong. What I thought was the problem (pilot bushing) seems fine. I have an extra input shaft and it fits in the bushing easily. From that I can measure there is a .003 clearance and no signs of seizing or galling. In the olden days you used to be able to dial in a bell housing with the clutch pilot bushing. No way to do it with the design of the bell housing on this.
So I think it could be one (or more) of 3 things. The clutch, hydraulic release bearing, and clutch master cylinder.
The clutch (when I can get it in gear) grabs at the very top of the pedal travel. This seems to be consistent when I am able to get it into gear and drive it. So I really don't think it's the hydraulics or transmission. I've had this trans in a different car and there is no problem with it at all. Shifts great, it's just when I'm done with the test drives is when I can't get it into gear. So I do the start it in gear thing and it works again for a little while. I'm leaning towards it being the clutch. A new stock style clutch kit with flywheel kit is about $360. A hydraulic release bearing is $75. Clutch master is $70. I'd like not to have to pull the trans again and if I just replace the clutch I might have to pull it to put in a release bearing.
So I'm not sure what to do. I know your guys aren't here to help, but sometimes writing it down (so to speak on here) helps my thinking process. And it doesn't hurt to see what you guys think. I want to figure out the problem and not be just a parts changer.
So, ideas?
A quick side note: My wife is getting smarter about car stuff. (She has been around me to long) Anyway I was taking off the bell housing and hit it on something My wife asked is that the bell housing? I said yes, how did you know. She said it rang like a bell when you hit it. So now I know why its called a "bell housing"
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,179
When you say "The clutch (when I can get it in gear) grabs at the very top of the pedal travel", I'm interpreting that to mean very little pedal travel or almost at the "clutch pedal released" position. Is that correct?
I don't like the sound of this but I don't have much experience with hydraulic throw out bearing systems, so don't know what to suggest to get the pedal "feel" in a better place.
Separately, I would definitely want to indicate the trans alignment bore and the trans mounting flange (both on the bell housing) to verify that they are, respectively, concentric and perpendicular to the crank axis of rotation. Remove the trans, BH and clutch. Put the BH back on and use a magnetic base (on the flywheel) to hold an indicator. Maybe you'll need a helper to wrench the motor over while you watch the indicator. Stone the trans and BH faces to verify no high spots.
I've heard of eccentric pilot bushings also. When you have the BH and clutch off, indicate the pilot bushing bore while your helper turns the motor over.
I don't like the sound of this but I don't have much experience with hydraulic throw out bearing systems, so don't know what to suggest to get the pedal "feel" in a better place.
Separately, I would definitely want to indicate the trans alignment bore and the trans mounting flange (both on the bell housing) to verify that they are, respectively, concentric and perpendicular to the crank axis of rotation. Remove the trans, BH and clutch. Put the BH back on and use a magnetic base (on the flywheel) to hold an indicator. Maybe you'll need a helper to wrench the motor over while you watch the indicator. Stone the trans and BH faces to verify no high spots.
I've heard of eccentric pilot bushings also. When you have the BH and clutch off, indicate the pilot bushing bore while your helper turns the motor over.