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ok, send me airline tickets, and put me up.. I'll give it a go.. of course two minds are like 1 right... or is it two minds are better than 1.
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My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)
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- Jul 5, 2014
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Well I was thinking since you volunteered the trip is on your nickle. I can fix you a cot up in the shop. That way you can be close to your work.
I guess you could call the test drive a success. The brakes definitely don't release properly. The "new" right hand seat belt won't extend fully so my wife could hook it, the right hand window spline where the handle goes is stripped and broke the handle getting it off. Several neighbors were out and they all were looking at us. It's much louder than I want, but the tail pipes aren't on yet. I'll have to take it to the muffler shop to get them fitted and welded up. I may have to change the mufflers. I want it so sound healthy not like it has open headers.
Other than the brake light problem that's not electrical all the electric stuff works perfectly. Temp seems to be running at 190 deg. When I first started it the engine got to 220 very quickly, but I think that was from an air pocket in the heads. I let it sit with the radiator cap off and it bubbled for over an hour, then the next time I started it the temp went to 190 and the fans kicked on and it stayed there.
Trans shifts great, but again the clutch engages at the top of the pedal travel. Don't like that but I'm not sure there is anything I can do about it. And my left rear wheel rubs in the inner wheel well. Going to have to make some wheel spacers to move it out a little. And will have to get longer wheel studs.
So my work is still cut out for me. I guess work on it will never be done.
I wish things woud have gone better on the test drive, but after replacing the engine with one that's 38 years newer than the car, trans that is 25 years newer, and a off brand "ford" rear, totally new front susension, all new disk brakes, 2 new wiring harnesses I can't complain too much I guess.
I guess you could call the test drive a success. The brakes definitely don't release properly. The "new" right hand seat belt won't extend fully so my wife could hook it, the right hand window spline where the handle goes is stripped and broke the handle getting it off. Several neighbors were out and they all were looking at us. It's much louder than I want, but the tail pipes aren't on yet. I'll have to take it to the muffler shop to get them fitted and welded up. I may have to change the mufflers. I want it so sound healthy not like it has open headers.
Other than the brake light problem that's not electrical all the electric stuff works perfectly. Temp seems to be running at 190 deg. When I first started it the engine got to 220 very quickly, but I think that was from an air pocket in the heads. I let it sit with the radiator cap off and it bubbled for over an hour, then the next time I started it the temp went to 190 and the fans kicked on and it stayed there.
Trans shifts great, but again the clutch engages at the top of the pedal travel. Don't like that but I'm not sure there is anything I can do about it. And my left rear wheel rubs in the inner wheel well. Going to have to make some wheel spacers to move it out a little. And will have to get longer wheel studs.
So my work is still cut out for me. I guess work on it will never be done.
I wish things woud have gone better on the test drive, but after replacing the engine with one that's 38 years newer than the car, trans that is 25 years newer, and a off brand "ford" rear, totally new front susension, all new disk brakes, 2 new wiring harnesses I can't complain too much I guess.
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- Nov 25, 2015
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There has to be a way to adjust the "free play" of the clutch..
Sounds like you have more work, but isn't that part of the enjoyment? Is the work ever done...
That garage heated?..
Sounds like you have more work, but isn't that part of the enjoyment? Is the work ever done...
That garage heated?..
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Thanks, it is in a way satisfying. At first I spent days on trying to solve very small details, wanted everything absolutely perfect. But then I realized everything can't be perfect. I don't have the skills to fix every little thing, nor do I have the money. So you start making compromises. Then as time goes by you learn to settle a little quicker for the compromises. You do your best, but you have to accept you did the best you could and move on. I really wanted a show winning type of build, but now I'll be happy with a good daily driver. Already surprised the neighbor with it by the way it sounds. (horrible i think)
Overall it seems to run good, have only used maybe 5% of the throttle. It accelerates very easily. I can tell there is a lot more in the engine. It wants to run, will be happy to see what she will do after I get a few bugs worked out, but not willing to hurt myself or my wife nailing the throttle yet. I need to get an alignment on it before I drive it any further. I set the toe with a tape measure.
Yes woodchucker the shop is heated and has AC. So you can stay into the hot days of summer and not be overheated when you are working on the gaps
The clutch has a hydraulic throwout bearing and it's spring loaded and the bearing sits against the fingers of the clutch all the time. The only think I can think of is trying to adjust the clutch pedal push rod somehow.
Overall it seems to run good, have only used maybe 5% of the throttle. It accelerates very easily. I can tell there is a lot more in the engine. It wants to run, will be happy to see what she will do after I get a few bugs worked out, but not willing to hurt myself or my wife nailing the throttle yet. I need to get an alignment on it before I drive it any further. I set the toe with a tape measure.
Yes woodchucker the shop is heated and has AC. So you can stay into the hot days of summer and not be overheated when you are working on the gaps
The clutch has a hydraulic throwout bearing and it's spring loaded and the bearing sits against the fingers of the clutch all the time. The only think I can think of is trying to adjust the clutch pedal push rod somehow.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
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sound is easy. pipes out the back will improve it.. resonator or CHERRY BOMB's or THRUSH type resonators will give it that nice rich sound and remove those hard hitting sounds.
you have a name for that bearing, I would assume they must have instructions how to adjust it.
what's the brand name, or part #... gotta be a way.. Unless that is designed to always ride the fingers full time... back in the day we didn't..
what does it do sit up against the back of the bell housing (by the tranny), and push forward?
you have a name for that bearing, I would assume they must have instructions how to adjust it.
what's the brand name, or part #... gotta be a way.. Unless that is designed to always ride the fingers full time... back in the day we didn't..
what does it do sit up against the back of the bell housing (by the tranny), and push forward?
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
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I see some kits have spring washers to adjust the fitment. I can't find instructions for any of them.
how many spring washers you got in there? One of kits says that they don't require adjustment after instalation, which sounds like there is no adjustment. Bizarre. All my early hydraulics had cylinders external to the bell housing. So they didn't seem that different from normal pushrod style.
how many spring washers you got in there? One of kits says that they don't require adjustment after instalation, which sounds like there is no adjustment. Bizarre. All my early hydraulics had cylinders external to the bell housing. So they didn't seem that different from normal pushrod style.
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- Jul 5, 2014
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Fixed one problem pretty easily today. The rear ujoint was hitting the mufflers. I have the 1550 big ford crossover ujoint and the x-pipe setup is really narrow and hugs the driveshaft. After some thinking about it I was able to move the mufflers forward 1/2" so the ujoint was near the small part of the driveshaft. Problem solved at zero cost.
But I can't solve the rear tire rubbing. It doesn't hit bad, only going around a corner but you can sure hear it. Sounds like it's tearing the inner fender off. I pulled one of my axles and found out they they used 7/16"-20 grade 8 tap bolts for studs. I need one that are about 2-1/4" or a little longer to put some wheel spacers on. I called the place that made up the housing and they don't have longer bolts. I've found some full length thread tap bolts but they are sold in lots of 100 or more. I need 10. I'd like not to have to try and drill the hardened axle flange to put press in studs in. I may have no choice.
My wife was looking at the car yesterday after the test drive. She asked what are those. I said traction bars. She said do all cars have them? I said no they have different suspensions than this one does. Figured I dodged a bullet not telling her exactly what they are for.
So my wife got home from work today and told me she showed some pictures to a guy at work that has a 69 nova. He said he liked the cowl hood and the traction bars. She said but you have a nova and you don't have traction bars? He said no. But Dan said they are part of the suspension. How can you drive the car without them. Well..............he explained EXACTLY what they are for. So, I'm busted. She asked me do I have plans that include the need for traction bars?
But I can't solve the rear tire rubbing. It doesn't hit bad, only going around a corner but you can sure hear it. Sounds like it's tearing the inner fender off. I pulled one of my axles and found out they they used 7/16"-20 grade 8 tap bolts for studs. I need one that are about 2-1/4" or a little longer to put some wheel spacers on. I called the place that made up the housing and they don't have longer bolts. I've found some full length thread tap bolts but they are sold in lots of 100 or more. I need 10. I'd like not to have to try and drill the hardened axle flange to put press in studs in. I may have no choice.
My wife was looking at the car yesterday after the test drive. She asked what are those. I said traction bars. She said do all cars have them? I said no they have different suspensions than this one does. Figured I dodged a bullet not telling her exactly what they are for.
So my wife got home from work today and told me she showed some pictures to a guy at work that has a 69 nova. He said he liked the cowl hood and the traction bars. She said but you have a nova and you don't have traction bars? He said no. But Dan said they are part of the suspension. How can you drive the car without them. Well..............he explained EXACTLY what they are for. So, I'm busted. She asked me do I have plans that include the need for traction bars?
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