My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)

alloy said:
Fixed one problem pretty easily today. The rear ujoint was hitting the mufflers. I have the 1550 big ford crossover ujoint and the x-pipe setup is really narrow and hugs the driveshaft. After some thinking about it I was able to move the mufflers forward 1/2" so the ujoint was near the small part of the driveshaft. Problem solved at zero cost.
View attachment 402719

But I can't solve the rear tire rubbing. It doesn't hit bad, but you can sure hear it. Sounds like it's tearing the inner fender off. I pulled one of my axles and found out they they used 7/16"-20 grade 8 tap bolts for studs. I need one that are about 2-1/4" or a little longer to put some wheel spacers on. I called the place that made up the housing and they don't have longer bolts. I've found some full length thread tap bolts but they are sold in lots of 100 or more. I need 10. I'd like not to have to try and drill the hardened axle flange to put press in studs in. I may have no choice.

My wife was looking at the car yesterday after the test drive. She asked what are those. I said traction bars. She said do all cars have them? I said no they have different suspensions than this one does. Figured I dodged a bullet not telling her exactly what they are for.

So my wife got home from work today and told me she showed some pictures to a guy at work that has a 69 nova. He said he liked the cowl hood and the traction bars. She said but you have a nova and you don't have traction bars? He said no. But Dan said they are part of the suspension. How can you drive the car without them. Well..............he explained EXACTLY what they are for. So, I'm busted. She asked me do I have plans that include the need for traction bars? :rolleyes:
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Yeah, i had to explain what do traction bars do to an officer and the best i could think of they are there to stop my springs from creaking when i overload it. Mine wore made from old fence post tubing and the car had no interior except an race seat. It worked i did not get a ticket just one of those looks ( what are you dooing). :rolleyes:
About the tires rubbing, you need a 4 post lift, an inspection pit or ramps to see the tires at ride height and compression, i've used white chalk on the tires sidewalls to help me see, it washes easily. Also check the fronts tires, i've had recently front inner fender came loose and sounded like the noise was from the rear, new cars are so muffled its hard to tell.
 
What is a grade 8 tap bolt?

Could you use grade 8 all thread?

Maybe reach out to one of offroad shops, maybe they have something in stock.

Tim
 
Yes is threaded all the way, they call them tap bolts is the technical name I guess.

I'd thought about all thread but the on;y two ways I can think to lock it in the axle is either spot welding it or red loctite. I'd like not to use either one so I can easily remove them if ever necessary.

I did find some 6" long grade 8 ones at zoro but they won't ship for 3 weeks. They come in lots of 10 which works out perfectly. I'm also going to call our local specialty bolt supplier on monday. I thought of calling them too late yesterday unfortunately.

www.zoro.com

Zoro Select Grade 8, 7/16"-20 Hex Head Cap Screw, Black Oxide Steel, 6 in L, 10 PK TAPG8716206 | Zoro

Order Zoro Select Grade 8, 7/16"-20 Hex Head Cap Screw, Black Oxide Steel, 6 in L, 10 PK, TAPG8716206 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com www.zoro.com

This is what is in the axle now. I'm going to have to machine the hex down some to clear the ebrake.
20220402_083929.jpg
 
alloy, have you thought about a Caterpillar dealer for Grade 8 bolts?
all their bolts & nuts are grade 8, they were when I worked there anyway.
i have some ideas for that & spacers, feel free to PM me.
 
@alloy

McMaster sells Grade 8 threaded rod and Grade 8 thin pattern nuts. Cut to length and weld a nut on. Trim to fit.

I looked at the Zoro option also and I think you have to buy two packs of ten (20 bolts = $150), minimum.

FYI. I once bought some 6" long SHCS (1/2" I think) and was surprised (shocked) to see the bow (banana like) that I got. I researched the specifications and found that they were within the spec. You won't have a bowed fastener if you start with threaded rod.

Calling Vancouver bolt and Tacoma Screw are good options. Maybe put a call into ARP too. What you want isn't on the ARP site, but it's worth a phone call.

Good luck.
 
I've not checked anywhere but online at this point.

Before reading this I was sitting in our car waiting to get our taxes done and came up with nothing, so thought about grade 8 threaded rod and jam nuts. I guess great minds think alike.

I don't have a way to weld the nuts but I am starting a welding class next Friday. Or I can use red loctite on the nuts. I didn't catch the zoro part min quantity was 2. Be a waste of $75 for nothing. Thanks for pointing that out.

I'll make some calls on Monday and see what I can find. If nothing I'll see what I can order from mcmaster.
 
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Ok, plan B it is. Called everywhere I could find, emailed, begged and pleaded for the bolts and no dice.

Just ordered some grade 8 all thread and jam nuts from mcmaster. They will be here wednesday. I may take them to welding class on friday and see about getting the nuts tacked on to the studs. Failing that I'll use red loctite on the nuts.
 
Manual Mac said:
Alloy, bring’m by my hovel, about 8 miles from U.
I’ll weld the nuts on for you.
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Thank you so much. I'll take you up on that.

I'll get the parts on wednesday and take me about a day or so to cut and fit them and I'll let you know when I'm ready.
 
While I'm waiting for parts I've been working in my hydro boost setup.

When I start the engine the brake pedal moves down and stays there. Shut the engine off and it comes back up. I am using a stock style brake switch and when the pedal gets pulled down my brake lights stay on and it feels like the brakes are on. I have a adjustable prop valve on the front brake lines and it has a pressure switch in it that I'm not using. I have verified that the switch is open with the engine off, but when the pedal moves down on it's own the switch activates tells me there is pressure in the brake system when the pedal is pulled down. I have free play in the push rod, so that's not pushing down and applying the brakes.

Here is a link to a vid I made today. The engine is running when the vid starts. I then shut the engine off, and then start it back up. You can see how the pedal moves on it's own.

Anyone have any idea on what to try?

 
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