Must Have Mill Machine Accessories For A Beginner?

Thanks for the info on the tote. I checked and there is a Lowes not too far that has 3 in stock. But another thanks for mentioning the Boeshield because I've been wondering what I could use to keep the machine and tooling from pitting/rusting. If there is anything I shouldn't use it on... or if there is another product I should use for certain items... let me know.

BTW, a friend will be here in an hour to help me move the mill from the garage into the workshop (ex-family room). Can't wait.

BTW if you have a Woodcraft store nearby they stock Boeshield on the shelf. The story goes that Boeing developed this spray to keep their machines from rusting and Boeing is in Seattle, WA they get a LOT of rain. Its a mixture of oils and waxes. It goes on wet and slippery, it dries tacky. I would say its best use is for surfaces that do not see chips, the underside of tables, underside of anything on a machine that doesn't see chips and isn't painted, on the table under a vise and the underside of vices, all manner of bolts and nuts when I'm assembling a machine I typically soak the nuts, bolts, and washers in the stuff e.g. dump them in a plastic tub and hose them down. Plus anything you are putting into storage until next use, just wipe them down with spirits and re-treat with a more appropriate product when you go to use the item if it sees chips. As it dries tacky its not good for surfaces that see chips as the chips will stick to it. Now you can spray it on thin and wipe it down, even buff it after to get rid of most of the tackiness after it dries but I think you get the maximum protection by spraying it on thick and letting it dry thick and tacky.

The question is what to use on tables and surfaces that are in use and see chips. Bostik GlideCote table and tool surface sealant?

Example: I have found various types of oils even heavy way oil will fail to protect surfaces when a machine sits unused for say weeks. Two examples here, the compound and cross slide on my lathe and my Kurt Vise. Even when those things were wiped down with heavy way oil a few weeks later they felt dry and rust was beginning to form. I was baffled at this. I don't know maybe the oil just runs off I guess.

The Kurt Vise especially damn but that thing wants to rust. And a drop of sweat its like acid. I oiled it and oiled it to no avail. So I got irritated a couple weeks ago and hosed it down with GlideCote. Sprayed it on heavy and left it like that, didn't buff it so we'll see.

GlideCote is to make a table surface slippery so wood glides across a table with less resistance. This product goes on super thin and penetrates. When you buff it off its smooth and nothing really sticks to it so its a good product for surfaces that see chips. TBD how well it works as rust preventative but seems promising.

Bostik specs - Reduces sliding friction, dries in seconds, will not build up even after several applications, contains no petroleum oils or silicones (important for wood finishing)

Bostik other applications listed - sealant to protect hand tools against rust and corrosion, repels dirt and grime on all surfaces. I am definitely going to apply this to my lathe's painted backsplash.
 
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Good info coolidge... keep us posted. The Boeshield sounds perfect for under the table and other areas where the tackiness doesn't matter. For the vise, etc. did you ever try using just a silicone spray? Every fall I clean the vise on my drill press and spray it with silicone. I spray it enough for the silicone to get everywhere and once it dries you can't tell. But that vise seems to be fine.

On another note, I spent 13 hours between the basement and the garage yesterday between moving and cleaning. A friend came over for 6 of those hours, primarily during the moving stage. Very time consuming but we have the mill set up in the workshop. I was so tired when I finished, that I went upstairs, ate 2 hot dogs, went straight to bed and slept for 12 hours. Sore but not as bad as I expected (in case anyone had any concern for my well being, ha). The lathe is supposedly (?) coming in 3 weeks so the process will soon repeat itself, but in less time since a lot of what I did to prepare won't be needed again.
 
I am using LPS 2 to keep the table coated... It was recommended in one of the threads...
 
What sort of uses do you have for the rotary table with bikes? Motorcycle work is my primary interest with a mill, and some folks said that they personally (not on bikes) used one very little. What kind of parts are you making for the bike? Also, I'm very interested in the PM935 mill. Have you bumped into any limits with it in your work? If so, how?
 
On a larger note, start keeping your eyes open for a nice rotary table. If you don't get in a hurry you can probably find a nice used one but it is amazing how much you will find yourself using one, especially working on motorcycles.

I also have a couple of 90-degree slotted angle plates that come in very handy for motorcycle work.

Mike.

What sort of uses do you have for the rotary table with bikes? Motorcycle work is my primary interest with a mill, and some folks said that they personally (not on bikes) used one very little. What kind of parts are you making for the bike? Also, I'm very interested in the PM935 mill. Have you bumped into any limits with it in your work? If so, how?

You two should talk/chat.

I am only using it for the mods I just made installing the front wheel.

Rotary table is on the list of tools to add... but I do not have anything planned where I need one. Just like the lathe :D
 
DRO successfully installed. I love it. I can't believe I ever went without it. Touch DRO next. Photos for your viewing pleasure.
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Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
Nice DRO installation ... but I think the Kurt is way too small for your table ;~)
 
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