MT4 Adapter spun in spindle, how do I clean up the spindle taper?

[woodchucker]

I would take a round stone and fix the edge of the spindle.
If it's a fine stone, you can take it inside the spindle and cleanup any galling.

That adapter may be bad, or it loosened up from a cut, or chatter.
If it blues up fairly well, continue to clean it up... if it fails miserably get another, Unless you want to learn to clean it up.
The idea of tossing it without knowing what's going on is foreign to me. I like to examine it first to find out what's going on and whether its recoverable.

 

[Dabbler]

When I inserted the taper, I cleaned both the spindle inside and the taper by wiping them with a paper towel, deep into the bore.

I'm glad that there was no previous damage. I wasn't trying to criticize you - you obviously have done everything right. You may need to ream or stone the headstock, depending on what you see. that arbor looks good except in the damaged band, which I would stone until it is subsurface. many MT4 inserts only have the taper at both ends anyway. several of my MT3 arbors are that way as well.

 

[SLK001]

Your spindle has no way of locking the tang hence it spun . Clean up the damage on both and keep the reducer for use in a MT4 lathe tailstock . Not a big issue .

The tang is NEVER locked up for a Morse taper. The tang is for removal only. A properly seated MT has more than enough holding power.

 

[WobblyHand]

A properly seated MT should have more than enough holding power.

Edited your comment. My changes in italics. That's what I thought. And a larger MT should hold better than a smaller one, due to the increase in surface area.

 

[WobblyHand]

I'm glad that there was no previous damage. I wasn't trying to criticize you - you obviously have done everything right. You may need to ream or stone the headstock, depending on what you see. that arbor looks good except in the damaged band, which I would stone until it is subsurface. many MT4 inserts only have the taper at both ends anyway. several of my MT3 arbors are that way as well.

Didn't take it that way. No worries. It was literally the first time I used that adapter!

Hopefully I can stone the spindle sufficiently with a round stone, since it would be a heck of a lot cheaper than getting an MT4 reamer. I will try to clean up the taper adapter as well, if for no other reason than to determine if it was the root of the problem or not.

 

[WobblyHand]

I would take a round stone and fix the edge of the spindle.
If it's a fine stone, you can take it inside the spindle and cleanup any galling.

That adapter may be bad, or it loosened up from a cut, or chatter.
If it blues up fairly well, continue to clean it up... if it fails miserably get another, Unless you want to learn to clean it up.
The idea of tossing it without knowing what's going on is foreign to me. I like to examine it first to find out what's going on and whether its recoverable.

Wouldn't surprise me at all if it was made wrong. But yeah, I'm going to figure it out first.

 

[WobblyHand]

You can check the spindle taper with the MT4 center that came with the lathe. I would blue the taper to check. If it checks OK, repeat with the adapter after it is cleaned up. That should tell you where the problem lies.

I will look for that center. I'm the second owner of the lathe. It's somewhere down in the shop. Good idea to do a blue check on that MT4 center first.

 

[woodchucker]

An MT taper holds when drilling or plunging. But it requires a drawbar when side loading. That's why it exists in a mill. My clausing has an mt2, and a drawbar. An uneven side cut will loosen the taper alone.

So I'm not in on that it won't come out. The draw bar is necessary to hold it from coming out, it ensures that it stays locked in.

 

[WobblyHand]

An MT taper holds when drilling or plunging. But it requires a drawbar when side loading. That's why it exists in a mill. My clausing has an mt2, and a drawbar. An uneven side cut will loosen the taper alone.

So I'm not in on that it won't come out. The draw bar is necessary to hold it from coming out, it ensures that it stays locked in.

Ah, so I bought the wrong kind of adapter.
So the drawbar goes through the spindle and the nut is on the other side of the headstock?

Dang, more stuff to make! (The drawbar.) Always making tooling, no time to make anything!

The MT2 soft arbor did have a 3/8-16 thread in the back of the taper. Could one use that to hold the MT4 onto the spindle? (If it had a draw bar thread.)

And where was everyone when I was daydreaming and shopping for this stuff in December

 

[tq60]

No drawbar on a lathe, just the thunk when it seats.

Usually in tailstock the pressure from drilling seats it fine as log as tooling is of correct size.

Sometimes we get crazy and a little help needed.

The old days they has cross bar supports for reducing spinning of tailstock supported tooling.

The chuck key for Jacobs chuck does well, the rod of the key fits the holes so you can support the chuck.

This is a 3.5 inch hole through 1.25 thick plate from scrapyard.

Chuck key is resting on OCTP, cutting at maybe 60 rpm, VFD are handy.

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