Look what showed up in my shop!

[middle.road]

I never in a thousand years would have thought of a hospital having and using a machine shop.
* Learn something new each and every day *
A few years ago they tore down the large hospital on the south side of Knoxville.
If had I but known. . .

 

[tjb]

Challenge #2

The vertical travel seemed to be binding quite a bit. It was very difficult to turn even a fraction of a revolution, until it finally locked up. I have removed the shaper from its stand and turned it over to look at the gears. Here's what I found: There indeed was some swarf in the gears. (Just about front and center in the first photo. Holding one with a pair of pliers in the second.)



That swarf is there because 5 teeth were broken on the back side of the gear. You can see the break in the second photo below - two teeth on the farthest left.



Don't know why or how this happened. It was turning when I got it, but not at all smoothly. I could get it to go all the way up and all the way down once, but then that was pretty much it.

It looks like the gear on the end of the screw would still be operational - IF I can get it back onto the worm gear. The gears on the lead screw are concave in the center, and I can't see how to engage it with the worm gear without removing it from the casting.



Terrified at the thought of hammering out those pins on the worm gear. Life would be miserable if the casting breaks.

Any suggestions?

Regards,
Terry

 

[C-Bag]

Welcome to the world of forensic Old Iron repair. Mine was more like and archeological dig than anything.

I don't know how your shaper is set up but the Atlas has 8 bolts that have to be loosened before you can move the knee. So all these kinds of details are what causes adjustment failures. The rod that sticks out for the knee adjustment is slightly bent on mine. Luckily they stopped and didn't break anything.

The pins are probably tapered like mine all are. So they will only go one way. So usually if it's sticking out on one side it means you drive it out from the other side. And note and mark which way it goes to put it back together. Make sense?

 

[tjb]

Welcome to the world of forensic Old Iron repair. Mine was more like and archeological dig than anything.

I don't know how your shaper is set up but the Atlas has 8 bolts that have to be loosened before you can move the knee. So all these kinds of details are what causes adjustment failures. The rod that sticks out for the knee adjustment is slightly bent on mine. Luckily they stopped and didn't break anything.

The pins are probably tapered like mine all are. So they will only go one way. So usually if it's sticking out on one side it means you drive it out from the other side. And note and mark which way it goes to put it back together. Make sense?

Yeah, makes sense. Had a feeling that was going to be the answer.

Thanks for the reply.

Regards

 

[tjb]

Welcome to the world of forensic Old Iron repair. Mine was more like and archeological dig than anything.

I don't know how your shaper is set up but the Atlas has 8 bolts that have to be loosened before you can move the knee. So all these kinds of details are what causes adjustment failures. The rod that sticks out for the knee adjustment is slightly bent on mine. Luckily they stopped and didn't break anything.

The pins are probably tapered like mine all are. So they will only go one way. So usually if it's sticking out on one side it means you drive it out from the other side. And note and mark which way it goes to put it back together. Make sense?

If you look at the last picture in my earlier post, you can see the heads on both pins. The other side of the top pin is shy of going through by about a 16th. The lower one, not so much, but still shy. I tapped them lightly - very lightly - with a punch and hammer, and they seem to be seated pretty snugly. Does it make any sense to drill them out?

Regards

 

[C-Bag]

If you look at the last picture in my earlier post, you can see the heads on both pins. The other side of the top pin is shy of going through by about a 16th. The lower one, not so much, but still shy. I tapped them lightly - very lightly - with a punch and hammer, and they seem to be seated pretty snugly. Does it make any sense to drill them out?

Regards

Those pins were driven in pretty hard. They had to be. If there are not cracks in the castings, thats cast iron, not pot metal. If you have the correct pin driver (not tapered punch!) that's the same size as the pin and you are driving the correct direction , and start them by driving straight "down" not sideways to the bosses. Then rotate and drive sideways, they will come out. I would do more damage trying to drill those pins. Those are hardened. I didn't ever have to drill the many pins I had to remove and mine had been in the at least 70-80yrs. Some good penetrating oil would help too.

 

[tjb]

Those pins were driven in pretty hard. They had to be. If there are not cracks in the castings, thats cast iron, not pot metal. If you have the correct pin driver (not tapered punch!) that's the same size as the pin and you are driving the correct direction , and start them by driving straight "down" not sideways to the bosses. Then rotate and drive sideways, they will come out. I would do more damage trying to drill those pins. Those are hardened. I didn't ever have to drill the many pins I had to remove and mine had been in the at least 70-80yrs. Some good penetrating oil would help too.

Okay, done deal! One of the two drove out very easily. The other was a bit of a bear because evidently at some point someone hammered on the pin in the opposite direction - both sides were flared. I picked the shorter of the two sides, used a dremel to grind of the flare, and punched it out. The shaper is now vertical again with the crank operating smoothly in both directions.

Here are some pics before and after grease. Is grease okay? There is no port for lubing.

Thanks for the advice. It was a great help.

Regards,
Terry

 

[C-Bag]

Good job. Yup, grease is OEM as far as I know. I use Red "N" Tacky #2. That was what my manual on the Atlas said to use and that's what I use on the bull gear and the grease cups. I don't know what yours recommends. But for something like that grease should be fine.

 

[tjb]

Good job. Yup, grease is OEM as far as I know. I use Red "N" Tacky #2. That was what my manual on the Atlas said to use and that's what I use on the bull gear and the grease cups. I don't know what yours recommends. But for something like that grease should be fine.

I used the same 'red' stuff that I use on all my tractors and farm equipment. Don't remember the brand off hand, but it works great on those pieces of equipment. It's both 'red' and 'tacky', so it'll probably work. I have ordered an owners/parts manual that will be here by Saturday. I suspect what I used will be consistent with what they recommend.

Thanks again. Probably a little to cautious on my part, but better too cautious than too agressive.

Regards,
Terry

 

[C-Bag]

I used the same 'red' stuff that I use on all my tractors and farm equipment. Don't remember the brand off hand, but it works great on those pieces of equipment. It's both 'red' and 'tacky', so it'll probably work. I have ordered an owners/parts manual that will be here by Saturday. I suspect what I used will be consistent with what they recommend.

Thanks again. Probably a little to cautious on my part, but better too cautious than too agressive.

Regards,
Terry

Better to be cautious than remorseful. These old machines are full of ways of doing things that are not common anymore. Nobody uses tapered pins, they use roll pins. And roll pins it doesn't matter which way you drive them out. It's little details that can quickly snowball. Did you try doing a search for a PDF version of the manual or even in the manual section here on H-M? I found the manual several places online for free. Not that the manual is that detailed for the Atlas 7b. It is very basic and there is no guide for repair, they only suggest you take it to somebody to repair it. The parts blowup helps but doesn't show how things come apart. Better than nothing.